Okay, so I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the Helix SS Kit and the H-sport Rear Competition Sway Bar and I'm considering doing it myself. Note that I've never worked on a car, my toolbox isn't exactly totally stocked, and I'm still a poor college student. I've only done the HAI and that was a huge accomplishment for me. The main thing I was wondering was how many jack stands I will need and do I need a jack or will the factory jack be enough. Can anybody also recommend some good and cheap jack stands and jacks I should get?

I'm assuming I can use Webb's DIY for the Rear Sway Bar Install and Helix includes instructions along with the SS kit, but will I need to get additional information beforehand?

Thanks for the help.

 

I've only done the swaybar so I can't help you with the SS kit but... Use Webb's DIY. Read through it and make sure you have all the tools necessary. I recommend getting most of the sockets in both 3/8" and 1/2" drive as some of the bolts are really tight. Some extensions are also really helpful as some of the bolts aren't easy to get at.

As for jack and stands, you'll need four stands (maybe 2 if you just raise the back) and any pep Boys jack that's fairly low will do. If you read Webb's instruction's on jacking the car, I do it reverse. Use the jack on the frame (with a piece of wood to protect the frame) and then put the stands under the jacking points. A Harbor Freight low profile jack would probably be much better suited but that's around $80. You will need a friend and a few hours to complete it.

The problem with your situation is that you don't already have the tools or equipment so I'd almost want to recommend finding a performance shop to do it for you. Your a 1st timer too so if you run into a snag, you might not have the knowledge to work out of it.

 

Harbor Freight has their race jack on sale again:


$69.99 Small, light weight, fits under lowered cars, and fairly durable.

They also sell a decent set of jack stands for $19.99

 

You don't think the DIY and the forums will be enough help? I was originally thinking of going to a shop to do it, but even with the equipment I would have to buy, it would still cost more, maybe $200 more just for the sway bar and then another $100 or so more for the SS kit. Plus, I don't get the satisfaction of installing it myself. On the other hand, 1) I could kill myself and 2) I could kill Morgan.

I've already decided that the pulley is more than I want to do, but it seems like the SS kit and the sway bar aren't too bad according to people's accounts, but they most likely have more experience than me.


Regarding the race jack posted, is 15" enough for me to get under and do work?

 

Guess that depends on how big you are!

I haven't done a rear sway with mine yet, but it has been enough to do my SS (B&M) and exhaust. They have bigger ones if you are looking for it. Problem with some of the larger ones is clearance under the car.

As far as DIY, the SS isn't too envolved and can be done by one person especially since you are using the Helix kit. The B&M is more involved and just takes more time. I have read through the rear sway instructions and that jobs looks better fit to two people, but still a doable job. I plan on putting mine in on the 18th.

 

I'm pretty skinny and I'll be on my back, right? Which brings me to another question, if it's such a thin clearance area, how do you get down there? I was thinking of just putting some slippery cardboard and just sliding under.

I can get a friend to help with the sway bar install, but I have no problem with doing it if it just takes longer.

 

Rear sway is definitely doable by a skinny guy without help (thats me!). As long as you have a jack, 2 stands, the correct sockets... its a pretty easy job.

 

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Randy Webb for the detailed instructions he so generously provides for the DIY on this forum. I installed my rear sway bar in 1 1/2 hours, with no surprises at all. {with the use of a lift}. Because I had read & re-read Randys instructions it felt like this was my second install instead of my first. I have never had that experience before.
Thanks again Randy.

 

The rear bar was cake. I was doing it myself and taking my time so I didn't have to do it twice and it took me about 2 hours or so. The biggest thing was to try and get the rear subframe lined up with no help. It was a tiny pain but I only cussed like 3-4 times.

 

2 or 4 jack stand for either job? Can I just get the jack and jack stands at my local home depot or will it be cheaper if I get it online? Have to wait for the parts anyway...

 

The front's a different story....I'll tell you all about it when I finally get the OEM bar out.......Oh, and that's a harbor freight jack as stated above.

 

I don't intend to do the front sway bar, but I've been thinking about it and I should be able to get away with 2 jack stands right?

 

Harbor Freight Has A Great Deal On Floor Jacks Right Now.
I Use 2 Of Them Plus Jack Stands. Good Luck And Make Sure You Have All The Tools Speced. In The Install Instructions.
Have Fun And Enjoy.

 

so you're saying I need 2 floor jacks and 2 jack stands?

[EDIT] Anyways, I just bought the racing jack from harbor freight. Now I'm wondering about the procedure of jacking up a car. You jack it up at the lift point in the front middle of the car. Will the placement of the jack stands be self explanatory? Also, can I jack up the the right or left side only instead of the front or rear? Also, should I have the car in park and in gear? I read somewhere that you should, but then I read here that the car needs to move slightly. Here's the quote:

"A recent shop accident involved this jack, where the cast aluminum jack head broke, the crossmember slid off the saddle, and then fell onto and ruined the oil pan. The problem was compound - using this jack on short pile, indoor/outdoor carpet [never use this stuff in your garage! Bad idea] which limited the necessary movement of the vehicle and jack when lifting, leaving the car in Park where the rear wheels couldn't move at all [doh!], and using the flat rubber padded saddle on this jack on a narrow, rounded and oily crossmember design that made for a slippery perch - a train wreck of user and equipment errors! Just remember, if you get one of these aluminum jacks, be careful not to put all of your load on the edge of the cast aluminum saddle, and know when a flat rubber saddle is not going to work on your jacking point. One small change in my accident's set-up would have avoided this crash."

 

MINIotaple, did you also pick up a torque wrench while you shopped at Harbor Freight? They have a 1/2" drive one available for $9.99 last I checked, and it is virtually identical to the one that Tire Rack sells for $30. Since you're removing your rear wheels, you might want to ensure that they're torqued properly to about 80 ft/pound - just relatively cheap insurance that your wheels don't come off while you're flying through corners testing your new rear sway bar.

 

Thanks, I'm on the phone right now trying to change my order.

 

i put my car on ramps up front and lifted the rear using that exact
hydraulic posted above (same color too. )

i use jackstands from griotsgarage which have a flat top where the
factory jack points fit perfectly onto. imho, the rear swaybar install
might be a little challenging for a newb... but it's not hard. you
only need to lift the rear if you're going to do the swaybars.

 

Thanks for the tip! I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought this jack. My older floor jack weighs nearly 100 pounds. This thing is light as a feather!

I picked up another useful MINI tool... HF has a brake caliper piston retracting tool for about $20 that will turn and press the rear brake pistons. It works great, I used one a few months ago on a friend's MINI. I also got a 25' retractable air hose reel for $39! I have always wanted one of those. A few years ago, they were well over $100.

Always go into HF with an open mind, an empty shopping cart, and plenty of money...all kinds of useful items in there.

Rawhyde

 

^^ yeh, i was looking at the Craftsman racing jack originally, but that wasn't
as low profile as the HF one that we got. the HF one is well built. been
using it over a year now with no issues. not just for my MCS, but on my
heavier cars too.


...ofcourse my miniature Craftsman model jack is super cool and super
low profile...

 

Do you any of you have H-sport springs in combination with the HK Jack? I am looking for a reliable, yet cost-effective jack that will still fit without having to drive up ramps:impatient :impatient

 

I bought a jack at CostCo that was 89 bucks, low profile, 4 ton, Aluminum.....its got a super long handle on it too to avoid stressing your back too much.