There are two ball-joints per control arm, why do online parts houses only list one?
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
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There are two ball-joints per control arm, why do online parts houses only list one?
During removal of my sub-frame to do a clutch replacement, I damaged the rubber boot on one of the left front ball joints. Been surfing online parts suppliers for a couple hours now and every one of them lists "the other" ball joint, but not the one that connects the end of the control arm to the spindle.
The part everyone lists looks like this:
And it's item #12 on the diagram at this URL
What I need however, is the other ball joint on the end of the control arm where it attaches to the spindle, as shown in item #10 at this URL
No matter where I look, a "ball joint" for this car turns up ONLY the item 12 shown in the picture posted here.
Anyone know where I can "the other ball-joint" online? My dealer is 50 miles away and I really don't have time to drive up there during business hours.
Thanks
Lloyd
The part everyone lists looks like this:
And it's item #12 on the diagram at this URLWhat I need however, is the other ball joint on the end of the control arm where it attaches to the spindle, as shown in item #10 at this URL
No matter where I look, a "ball joint" for this car turns up ONLY the item 12 shown in the picture posted here.
Anyone know where I can "the other ball-joint" online? My dealer is 50 miles away and I really don't have time to drive up there during business hours.
Thanks
Lloyd
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 67
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From: California
Originally Posted by barnhillld
During removal of my sub-frame to do a clutch replacement, I damaged the rubber boot on one of the left front ball joints. Been surfing online parts suppliers for a couple hours now and every one of them lists "the other" ball joint, but not the one that connects the end of the control arm to the spindle.
The part everyone lists looks like this:
And it's item #12 on the diagram at this URL
What I need however, is the other ball joint on the end of the control arm where it attaches to the spindle, as shown in item #10 at this URL
No matter where I look, a "ball joint" for this car turns up ONLY the item 12 shown in the picture posted here.
Anyone know where I can "the other ball-joint" online? My dealer is 50 miles away and I really don't have time to drive up there during business hours.
Thanks
Lloyd
The part everyone lists looks like this:
And it's item #12 on the diagram at this URLWhat I need however, is the other ball joint on the end of the control arm where it attaches to the spindle, as shown in item #10 at this URL
No matter where I look, a "ball joint" for this car turns up ONLY the item 12 shown in the picture posted here.
Anyone know where I can "the other ball-joint" online? My dealer is 50 miles away and I really don't have time to drive up there during business hours.
Thanks
Lloyd
Good Luck!
4th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
If you only need the boot and have the size of the shaft and the dimension of the seat, I have a bunch of Energy suspension dust boot here, if I have one of that size, I'll ship it to you.
I just measured a couple here, the shaft opening is 9/16" but can stretch to 5/8" to fit snug and the seat is 1 3/8" and again it needs to stretch in order to fit snug.
One of them is 1 5/16" tall and others are 1" tall, let me know the size you need, I have a few other ones downstairs.
I just measured a couple here, the shaft opening is 9/16" but can stretch to 5/8" to fit snug and the seat is 1 3/8" and again it needs to stretch in order to fit snug.
One of them is 1 5/16" tall and others are 1" tall, let me know the size you need, I have a few other ones downstairs.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
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Just ordered the ball joint from the Mini dealer in Hartford. Seems so obvious now, but I'm internet addicted and spent two hours looking online for someplace else to get it first. :impatient
Didn't ask how much since there seems to be no where else to get it.
Now, back to trying to find out how to replace the passenger side seal in the steering rack. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...768#post657768
Cheers,
Lloyd
Didn't ask how much since there seems to be no where else to get it.
Now, back to trying to find out how to replace the passenger side seal in the steering rack. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...768#post657768
Cheers,
Lloyd
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
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How do you get that ball joint off?
Ok, new ball joint will be here tomorrow... but how in the heck do you get the old one off? 
I removed the two bolts that attach it to the bottom of the spindle, but this baby is pressed tight into that hole...
Anyone have a trick? or a particular tool that I might be able to get at the Auto parts store?
I removed the two bolts that attach it to the bottom of the spindle, but this baby is pressed tight into that hole...
Anyone have a trick? or a particular tool that I might be able to get at the Auto parts store?
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
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Problem ball joint
Originally Posted by jlm
leave the stem of the ball joint attached to the control am so you can pry between the control arm and spindle.
I can put the control arm back on the cener bolt, but I don't see any way of prying between that and the spindle.
I suppose I can pry below the control arm by leveraging off the nut... is this what you meant?
Thanks,
Lloyd
Last edited by barnhillld; Oct 4, 2005 at 06:22 AM. Reason: Added the photo
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Removing the ball joint from the bottom of the spindle
I suggest carefully tapping a thin blade like a putty knife into the joint between the spindle and the ball joint. They are not a press fit. There may be some rust or dirt or some dings to the fit between these two parts that occurred prior to when they were last assembled.
Separating ball joints from control arms, etc are difficult because of lack of places to pry against. The alternative is to use a soft drift or block of metal (not steel) to place against the partially loosened ball joint nut and strike it sharply to "pop" the taper lose.
Separating ball joints from control arms, etc are difficult because of lack of places to pry against. The alternative is to use a soft drift or block of metal (not steel) to place against the partially loosened ball joint nut and strike it sharply to "pop" the taper lose.
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 314
Likes: 1
From: Sammamish, WA
Barnhilld,
I do the same as John (jlm) has suggested. A piece of cake and much easier than trying to pop the taper. The fit is pretty loose. A combination of a gentle push up on the spindle and a push down on the "A" arm seperates the two.
John Petrich in Seattle
I do the same as John (jlm) has suggested. A piece of cake and much easier than trying to pop the taper. The fit is pretty loose. A combination of a gentle push up on the spindle and a push down on the "A" arm seperates the two.
John Petrich in Seattle
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
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Got it! The thin blade proposal of DeerHarb worked although it was rusted in place and pretty dang tight. This was the reason I dropped the control arm from the center bolt, because this connection didn't want to come loose. Of course in the process of doing things that way, I damaged the ball joint resulting in the need for this extra hassle 
But it's out now and once again...... the people on this forum are an irreplaceable source of help. Thanks!!
New ball joint and steering rack are some where on the road. OEM clutch and transmission are installed and the SPEC clutch is on it's way back to their quarters in Alabama for evaluation.
Cheers,
Lloyd
But it's out now and once again...... the people on this forum are an irreplaceable source of help. Thanks!!
New ball joint and steering rack are some where on the road. OEM clutch and transmission are installed and the SPEC clutch is on it's way back to their quarters in Alabama for evaluation.
Cheers,
Lloyd
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