JCW Intake Installation Questions
JCW Intake Installation Questions
Just picked up the kit from another MINI owner and in looking through the contents the install looks rather straight forward, but......... you never can tell! :smile:
I've got Gabe's pdf file from Motoringfile and have reviewed it, but it never hurts to ask............
Anyone got any tidbits of info?? The Kit came with the air cleaner casing, the air cleaner, the partition, crimp connectors and the "heat shield", (everything but the injector nozzles). The instructions call for a few splices at the fuse box and ECU, but don't really explain why. I'm assuming that the fuse block tap is for the power and the ECU tap is to determine RMP to activate the vacuum and open the intake "flap"??
Thanks in advance
I've got Gabe's pdf file from Motoringfile and have reviewed it, but it never hurts to ask............
Anyone got any tidbits of info?? The Kit came with the air cleaner casing, the air cleaner, the partition, crimp connectors and the "heat shield", (everything but the injector nozzles). The instructions call for a few splices at the fuse box and ECU, but don't really explain why. I'm assuming that the fuse block tap is for the power and the ECU tap is to determine RMP to activate the vacuum and open the intake "flap"??
Thanks in advance
What little wiring there is is not complex but space is tight! The most common problem seems to be plugging in to the fuseblock; its an itty-bitty piece and difficult to tell when/if it is all the way in. Don't force it - but I'd suggest using something (not a sharp thing) to gently push it into place. Do a Search as there is more info from others who have done this.
Thanks Ozbone!
I'll be sure to take my time and not force anything. I've got a back ground in PCB repair, so I'm used to working in close quarters. But have you seen the size of the crimp connector? It's huge!
I tried the search function first before I asked, but with little luck. Only got 2 returns
I'll be sure to take my time and not force anything. I've got a back ground in PCB repair, so I'm used to working in close quarters. But have you seen the size of the crimp connector? It's huge!
I tried the search function first before I asked, but with little luck. Only got 2 returns
Everything about the install process is pretty straightforward except for the splicing and wiring details. Two issues: The connection of the red wire to the fuse box is not fully documented. You MUST remove the connector from the fusebox and you MUST remove the terminal lock bar before you slide the terminal into the cavity or you WILL damage it. Removing the lock bar is easy, there are two, but you need only remove the one on the side of the cavity you are using. Using a small sharp tool like a jeweler's screwdriver or knife point, gently pry up on the wrap-around end of the lock bar to release it. Slide the terminal into the cavity making sure you put it in the correct one (once it's in it locks into place individually, the lock bar holds them all in as a group more securely than the individual lock tabs). Snap the lock bar in place and replace the connector in the fuse box.
The other issue is the splice made to the wiring at the ECU connector. Specifically, the crimp connector supplied is for some reason for 10 gauge wire but the wiring you will be dealing with is only about 22 gauge at best. Discard the huge crimp connector and instead use a small one, or better yet, cut, splice, solder and shrink-tube the wiring instead, since a crimp connector is going to be pretty big in a very tight area. Make sure you are splicing to the wire coming from terminal 113 (check continuity from the wire to the terminal at the ECU connector. They are all numbered, albeit with very tiny numbers).
The other issue is the splice made to the wiring at the ECU connector. Specifically, the crimp connector supplied is for some reason for 10 gauge wire but the wiring you will be dealing with is only about 22 gauge at best. Discard the huge crimp connector and instead use a small one, or better yet, cut, splice, solder and shrink-tube the wiring instead, since a crimp connector is going to be pretty big in a very tight area. Make sure you are splicing to the wire coming from terminal 113 (check continuity from the wire to the terminal at the ECU connector. They are all numbered, albeit with very tiny numbers).
Thanks Greatbear!
I'll be taking you up on the advise of shrink wrapping the splice, that connector is way out of place. I haven't looked that close at the fuse block yet, but I think I understand what you're saying. I'll be looking at it in a minute, since I'm installing the Hella FF200 lights right now.
Thanks again everyone
I'll be taking you up on the advise of shrink wrapping the splice, that connector is way out of place. I haven't looked that close at the fuse block yet, but I think I understand what you're saying. I'll be looking at it in a minute, since I'm installing the Hella FF200 lights right now.
Thanks again everyone
All done, took about 2 hours but some of that was trying to figure out where the vacuum line was tapped. Oh yes that section of the instructions was very clear, not!
The rest was spent searching for the magnifying glass to find pin #113. I didn't cut the wire, I used the old inline splice method; using a wire stripers cut through the insulation in 2 place approx .5" apart, but not through the wire. Carefully using a knife (pocket or other) remove the insulation from that section of wire. Open/spread apart the strands of the wire and insert the new wire, twist to secure, and seal from weather, either with elec tape of the new liquid sealing methods.
Best bet is to mount the intake base and place the cover portion on it and let the vacuum line drape down. It'll almost point to the vacuum canister mentioned in the instructions, which for the next guy doing this install is the Bypass Valve!
Lovely sound and marked increase in acceleration (via the butt dyno). Off to find the thread on resetting all the learned driving habits, so we can start anew!
Thanks for the tip on opening up the fuse block plug, made it go very fast.
The rest was spent searching for the magnifying glass to find pin #113. I didn't cut the wire, I used the old inline splice method; using a wire stripers cut through the insulation in 2 place approx .5" apart, but not through the wire. Carefully using a knife (pocket or other) remove the insulation from that section of wire. Open/spread apart the strands of the wire and insert the new wire, twist to secure, and seal from weather, either with elec tape of the new liquid sealing methods.
Best bet is to mount the intake base and place the cover portion on it and let the vacuum line drape down. It'll almost point to the vacuum canister mentioned in the instructions, which for the next guy doing this install is the Bypass Valve!
Lovely sound and marked increase in acceleration (via the butt dyno). Off to find the thread on resetting all the learned driving habits, so we can start anew!
Thanks for the tip on opening up the fuse block plug, made it go very fast.
OK - I need some HELP!!
I've got everything ready to go but I can't for the life of me find where to hook up the vacuum line.
Anyone???
Anyone???
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Got mine at Way Motorworks www.waymotorworks.com for $250. He had a couple others at the time but not sure if he still does. Give him a call, maybe you'll luck out.
Originally Posted by bjl
Try looking for an intake other than the JCW (~$500). You can get a CAI for around $100.
http://www.helix13.com/html/products...ew.php?p=6&h=m
but it's currently back ordered.
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