Cooper cold engine stall (for me, on 5-speed)
My September 02 build (03 model year) Cooper with the 5-speed stalls when the engine is cold. It's not the "cold start" problem, the engine start up just fine. For the first few minutes, when I come to a stop the RPMs drop to around 500 and the engine often stalls. Even when it doesn't stall, the dash lights up like a christmas tree (DME light, service engine light). I've got CD 32 installed, but it didn't make the problem go away. Does CD 33 solve it? I'm in Vermont, and my dealer is 3.5 hours away... I'm waiting for them to call me back, but I figured I'd through a post out here too.
I've been told this problem is more common to automatic coopers, but aparently it can appear in some 5-speeds too.
I've been told this problem is more common to automatic coopers, but aparently it can appear in some 5-speeds too.
Check the threads in MINI2.com related to this very same subject:
http://www.mini2.com/forum/forumdisp...amp;forumid=16
Once registered on this site, you can perform searches on the different engine software calibration issues affecting recent build Coopers and Cooper CVT models.
Also, I will recommend for you to contact Sam at MINIUSA (1-866-ASK-MINI). He is very, very well versed in the problem and needs to keep on collecting as much feedback from problem owners as he can.
Last info I have is that CD update #33 has fixes for the near stall problem on a cold engine for the Cooper CVT (The problems between both cars are the same regardless of transmission type) and regular Cooper will be available on MINI dealers towards the end of this month.
For a quick workaround fix, try the following to eliminate the cold engine near stalls/stalls:
1) Put the key in the ignition
2) Turn the key to the "ON" position
3) Leave it there for about 10 to 20 seconds
4) proceed to start the engine normally
5) drive away. The engine will not exhibit the annoying sudden RPM drop from 1K to 500 RPMs.
This is a temporary fix until CD #33 becomes available. However, please get in touch with Sam for further details on your specific vehicle.
http://www.mini2.com/forum/forumdisp...amp;forumid=16
Once registered on this site, you can perform searches on the different engine software calibration issues affecting recent build Coopers and Cooper CVT models.
Also, I will recommend for you to contact Sam at MINIUSA (1-866-ASK-MINI). He is very, very well versed in the problem and needs to keep on collecting as much feedback from problem owners as he can.
Last info I have is that CD update #33 has fixes for the near stall problem on a cold engine for the Cooper CVT (The problems between both cars are the same regardless of transmission type) and regular Cooper will be available on MINI dealers towards the end of this month.
For a quick workaround fix, try the following to eliminate the cold engine near stalls/stalls:
1) Put the key in the ignition
2) Turn the key to the "ON" position
3) Leave it there for about 10 to 20 seconds
4) proceed to start the engine normally
5) drive away. The engine will not exhibit the annoying sudden RPM drop from 1K to 500 RPMs.
This is a temporary fix until CD #33 becomes available. However, please get in touch with Sam for further details on your specific vehicle.
>>Wow - great info. Thanks. I've had this problem for a couple months now. it's only actually happened twice but that's 2 too many times IMHO.
same here.. thanks from me too!!!
same here.. thanks from me too!!!
>>For a quick workaround fix, try the following to eliminate the cold engine near stalls/stalls:
>>
>>1) Put the key in the ignition
>>2) Turn the key to the "ON" position
>>3) Leave it there for about 10 to 20 seconds
>>4) proceed to start the engine normally
>>5) drive away. The engine will not exhibit the annoying sudden RPM drop from 1K to 500 RPMs.
This didn't do the trick for me. As usual, it started up on the first try, but when I came to a stop at the end of my driveway, it stalled.
Oh yeah, for those wondering what cold is, when I started the car it read -8F, on my way to work it bottomed out at -24F
>>
>>1) Put the key in the ignition
>>2) Turn the key to the "ON" position
>>3) Leave it there for about 10 to 20 seconds
>>4) proceed to start the engine normally
>>5) drive away. The engine will not exhibit the annoying sudden RPM drop from 1K to 500 RPMs.
This didn't do the trick for me. As usual, it started up on the first try, but when I came to a stop at the end of my driveway, it stalled.
Oh yeah, for those wondering what cold is, when I started the car it read -8F, on my way to work it bottomed out at -24F
>>Maybe the gas you bought is slightly contaminated. Buy it from a different station next time. Or even try a different brand.
Not unless I've been insanely (un)lucky. It's been happening since it started getting cold (below freezing) which was probably sometime in November, and with gas from ~6 different stations, many different tank fillings. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket. :smile:
So, I take it nobody who has experienced this problem has had software #33 installed yet.
Not unless I've been insanely (un)lucky. It's been happening since it started getting cold (below freezing) which was probably sometime in November, and with gas from ~6 different stations, many different tank fillings. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket. :smile:
So, I take it nobody who has experienced this problem has had software #33 installed yet.
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>>>>Maybe the gas you bought is slightly contaminated. Buy it from a different station next time. Or even try a different brand.
>>
>>Not unless I've been insanely (un)lucky. It's been happening since it started getting cold (below freezing) which was probably sometime in November, and with gas from ~6 different stations, many different tank fillings. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket. :smile:
>>
>>So, I take it nobody who has experienced this problem has had software #33 installed yet.
Not yet. #33 will be available until the end of this month. However if your stalling problem is chronic (and it appears to be), the only way to get #33 is by leaving the car 1 week at the dealership while they send out the DME module from your car out to MINI's headquarters in NJ for reprogramming. MINI should provide you with a paid rental car for the time being while the DME is being reflashed.
Call Sam at 1-866-ASK-MINI for further details.
>>
>>Not unless I've been insanely (un)lucky. It's been happening since it started getting cold (below freezing) which was probably sometime in November, and with gas from ~6 different stations, many different tank fillings. Maybe I should buy a lottery ticket. :smile:
>>
>>So, I take it nobody who has experienced this problem has had software #33 installed yet.
Not yet. #33 will be available until the end of this month. However if your stalling problem is chronic (and it appears to be), the only way to get #33 is by leaving the car 1 week at the dealership while they send out the DME module from your car out to MINI's headquarters in NJ for reprogramming. MINI should provide you with a paid rental car for the time being while the DME is being reflashed.
Call Sam at 1-866-ASK-MINI for further details.
I live outside Philly and we've had a cold, brutal winter so far and I've noticed the same problem in the morning. I let the car idle and warm-up for about 5 minutes that seems to do the trick. I went to move my car one day to a different parking spot at work and was in a hurry and didn't let it warm-up and I felt hard knocking and the engine almost stalled several times before it finally stalled and the service engine light came on. I would let the car warm-up for a minute or two and this should prevent this-The Mini was not made for the cold-let's face it!
>>I live outside Philly and we've had a cold, brutal winter so far and I've noticed the same problem in the morning. I let the car idle and warm-up for about 5 minutes that seems to do the trick. I went to move my car one day to a different parking spot at work and was in a hurry and didn't let it warm-up and I felt hard knocking and the engine almost stalled several times before it finally stalled and the service engine light came on. I would let the car warm-up for a minute or two and this should prevent this-The Mini was not made for the cold-let's face it!
But if you read the MINI's owner's manual carefully, you'll find the following quote on page# 42:
"Starting the engine:
Do not allow the engine to warm up while the vehicle is at standstill. Move off immediately at moderate engine speed."
Can anyone explain this?
But if you read the MINI's owner's manual carefully, you'll find the following quote on page# 42:
"Starting the engine:
Do not allow the engine to warm up while the vehicle is at standstill. Move off immediately at moderate engine speed."
Can anyone explain this?
>>I live outside Philly and we've had a cold, brutal winter so far and I've noticed the same problem in the morning. I let the car idle and warm-up for about 5 minutes that seems to do the trick. I went to move my car one day to a different parking spot at work and was in a hurry and didn't let it warm-up and I felt hard knocking and the engine almost stalled several times before it finally stalled and the service engine light came on. I would let the car warm-up for a minute or two and this should prevent this-The Mini was not made for the cold-let's face it!
And disagree about your last statement. the MINI should be able to start and be driven right away like any other new car equipped with the latest electronics and fuel injection.
If my 2001 Impala LS starts right away and can be driven off immediately with a cold engine (No stalls, just smooth and strong performance), then the MINI should do the same.
The MINI is not a 1960's car with a carburator and a manual engine choke.
The problem centers around the DME engine softwrae calibration and this is what needs to be fixed.
And disagree about your last statement. the MINI should be able to start and be driven right away like any other new car equipped with the latest electronics and fuel injection.
If my 2001 Impala LS starts right away and can be driven off immediately with a cold engine (No stalls, just smooth and strong performance), then the MINI should do the same.
The MINI is not a 1960's car with a carburator and a manual engine choke.
The problem centers around the DME engine softwrae calibration and this is what needs to be fixed.
I got software 33 installed yesterday (along with fixing another problem). It did the same stalling trick this morning. I'll give it a few days before I declare that the upgrade didn't work for me, maybe it needs a few days to "adapt". The stalling isn't the end of the world for me. It gives me incentive to get better at heel-toe braking, which will come in handy when the summer tires get put back on and I hit the twisties again.
VelVet,
My MC also does this at very cold temperatures - down at 15f and lower.
Starts fine, and I drive to the end of my road (less than 1/4ml) and it struggles to keep running as I stop to check traffic. If I cannot pull out immediately it cuts out. So then I restart it and it is fine from then on.
Seems to be like the engine data tables are not correct at those low temperatures and idling RPMs.
My MC also does this at very cold temperatures - down at 15f and lower.
Starts fine, and I drive to the end of my road (less than 1/4ml) and it struggles to keep running as I stop to check traffic. If I cannot pull out immediately it cuts out. So then I restart it and it is fine from then on.
Seems to be like the engine data tables are not correct at those low temperatures and idling RPMs.
Ditto here with my August build MC. The problem doesn't always seem to be cold related though. The air conditioning on in the summer had the same effect. Right now, it doesn't stall, but the rpm's sink. Especially when I pull into Tim Horton's for my coffee and I pull in quick then have to drop to 2nd or 1st gear (depending on parking lot traffic) to navigate a hairpin turn. My MINI doesn't seem to like that.
I have a service in 3000 miles, so I'll wait until then, calling my dealer ahead of time to let them know of it.
I have a service in 3000 miles, so I'll wait until then, calling my dealer ahead of time to let them know of it.
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