I think my version is 39.x in my 03 MCS. It's the version that was installed because of the latest recall.

On to the reason for asking. Ever since the software was updated, my exhaust tips have yet to be clean from soot. If it's doing that much to the exhaust tips, I can only wonder what it is doing to the spark plugs. The reason I say is because the software has seemed to cause a rough idle and poor acceleration just after starting off from a stand still at a light.

I've noticed others talk about rough idle but have others had this combination of problems? Hopefully someone may know if this is being looked at with yet another software fix. I may pull out the spark plugs this weekend to see if they need to be replaced.

 

SB -

Yes. If you had your ECU flashed because of the recall, you have V.39.x. It seems like the latest ECU versions are somewhat more sensitive to the adaptive settings than earlier versions. Therefore, I would suggest that before you do anything else, you reset the ECU to clear it of any adaptive settings and start fresh.

Some links that might help...

ECU Resetting Thread

Adaptive Settings

After resetting the ECU and driving 300-400 miles, you may find the rough idle situation better. However, my exhaust tips do regularly accumulate deposits. Having the same concerns as you, I pulled the plugs to check things out and they were reasonably clean.

Theo

 

I guess I have to ask...

which version did not cause soot on the exhaust pipes?

 

Yeah, I have alway had sooty exhaust tips? V.36-V39.x

 

I have an 8/02 build 02 MCS and have never had the ECU flashed, I've never had stumble, never had rough idle and have never had clean pipes.

 

SB,
I was very skeptical about having my '03 MCS reflashed to V39 because of all the things that I had read on NAM. The dealer convinced me to do it, saying they had only had one car out of roughly 400 where it didn't take. My experience has been very positive with it. I don't notice any more soot than normal on the exhaust tips, but frankly never had much to begin with. I also never had cold start or idling problems with the car before or after. The one improvement is in acceleration from a standing start. The stumble was partially mitigated with V36, and is now almost gone with V39. We will wait and see what happens after we revert back to the lousy summer formulated gas.

 

Thanks Koopah. I reset the ECU and tooks Ryephiles advice about driving the car after resetting. I took an 8 mile very enthusiastic drive through the country roads. I'll keep those threads in mind if I see an improvement.

Oh, I didn't mean to sound like it has never had soot. Compared to what I was getting in a week before the new version, I am getting roughly the same amount in 2 to 3 days now.

 

My single pipe is as dirty now as it was before the new software.And at -30F I don't care to much.Keeping the salt off takes 2 washes a week,the beer can sticking out the back can wait till spring

 

yeah, I went to take care of the recall misunderstanding that it was "manditory," the bottom of my letter makes it sound that was... anyway, so now i have the new epa v39 progam which caused a couple of problems for me, I had not had any problems with the ECU or thottle responce before this at all. I of course got the idle problem where it sounds as if it is about to stall, but furthermore have expiranced a MAJOR loss of power.. I i find myself having to rev her up to 3000rpms so as to aviod stalling from lights. I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem... but really I just want to go back to the old v36 program cuz it was running great that way, the dealer says they can't do it... (Alta says they are lieing)... I don't really want to pay to get new software, especially when I had a set that was working great. I was also told to ask about pirated JCW software, any suggestions please let me know?? I doubt a reset will fix all of this



I have been dealing with it for months now and the dealer just doesn't care...


btw, I have been reading the forum for a long time and this is my first post, the first problem I really can't solve on my own. I have a 2003 MCS with 15% pully, Alta intake, Jackson Racing plug wires, Hamann graphics and more to come if I can ever get this solved. Here is a link to my website I thought I would share: http://www.freewebtown.com/mini/MINI.html

 

If you live in the state of California, MINI will furnish to the State authorities the information about which vehicles have had the recall done/not done. Thus, come smog check time, if you haven't done the recall, the State can (potentially) reject your MINI without even checking it. I guess this means it is "mandatory" if you want to keep your MINI (legally) on the road.

So...you haven't even tried to do a reset? What could you possibly lose in trying? This has improved things for some folks.

FWIW,

Theo

 

I live in Florida and we don't have smog stations, or any system of checking here. Thank goodness! I did try the reset which did something (wasn't very hard thanks to the instructions!!), but it didn't make it run any better



The bottom line for me is, if I wanted it to run like a Skoda, i could have done that myself (unplug a cylinder and throw mud up the intake). I don't need the dealer's help. I hope the MINI of NA makes a better attempt to fix this, cuz I'm not driving it until they do. Which I know is my loss, but I just get too angery about how poorly it runs. It actually stalled four times stoped at one red light on my test run after the the reset. Also, I have contacted Mini of North America and they say they are aware of the problems, but no solutions are currently available.



Alta told me I should find a pirated copy of the JCW program (but where do I do that?)

Dinan says theirs program won’t fix it because it is an overlay program


I will try contacting Randy Webb, Nuzzo Motorsports, and Renn Tek to see about scraping the ECU and buying a stand-alone... I am desperate



If anyone knows the number for Renn Tek please send it too me, I haven’t dealt with them in several years (last for an e36 PTG M3).

 

Give it about 300 to 400 miles after the reset. That's about how long it takes for the adaptive settings to "settle down".

Just another thought...have you tried going back to the stock wires just to see if there is any difference? If you haven't done that, you may want to in order to rule them out.

FWIW,

Theo