R56 K-Can line fault issues
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
R56 K-Can line fault issues
Hey y'alls,
2009 S
sunroof
6-speed
117,000ish miles
Spent the day working on clearing the 93C3 - Seat occupancy detector error. Got that cleared out now. On to the next set.
Error codes:
Any ideas how I'd go about troubleshooting these?
Thank you
2009 S
sunroof
6-speed
117,000ish miles
Spent the day working on clearing the 93C3 - Seat occupancy detector error. Got that cleared out now. On to the next set.
Error codes:
- E584 K-CAN line fault
- DA04 K-CAN line fault
- E104 K-CAN line fault
- C944 K-CAN line fault
- D904 K-CAN line fault
Any ideas how I'd go about troubleshooting these?
Thank you
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 64
Likes: 9
From: Van Nuys
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 839
Likes: 225
CAN line faults are caused by either faulty wiring, faulty terminating resistors, or a faulty module.
The first two are easy to check with a multimeter and a wiring diagram. You'll want to check both the CAN_L and CAN_H wires - they are green and green with red stripe, respectively. They will be twisted together:
There should be no conductivity to ground. There should be no battery voltage from wire to ground or wire to wire. There should be 120 ohms from wire to wire.
You only need to check these in one spot in the harness, not at every module.
Faulty module detection can be tricky. This is where an oscilloscope makes the job infinitely easier. Basically, you're looking for a clean square wave signal on the wires. White noise or other interference suggests a bad module. You can find the culprit by disconnecting each module one-by-one from the harness until the signal is clean. I'd start with the FRM as these have a certain reputation.
Good Luck!
Edit: You'll also want to check continuity of the the wires between each module. But this is time consuming and it's worth doing the o-scope check first.
The first two are easy to check with a multimeter and a wiring diagram. You'll want to check both the CAN_L and CAN_H wires - they are green and green with red stripe, respectively. They will be twisted together:
There should be no conductivity to ground. There should be no battery voltage from wire to ground or wire to wire. There should be 120 ohms from wire to wire.
You only need to check these in one spot in the harness, not at every module.
Faulty module detection can be tricky. This is where an oscilloscope makes the job infinitely easier. Basically, you're looking for a clean square wave signal on the wires. White noise or other interference suggests a bad module. You can find the culprit by disconnecting each module one-by-one from the harness until the signal is clean. I'd start with the FRM as these have a certain reputation.
Good Luck!
Edit: You'll also want to check continuity of the the wires between each module. But this is time consuming and it's worth doing the o-scope check first.
Last edited by mrbean; Jun 9, 2023 at 12:49 PM.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
just what I needed
CAN line faults are caused by either faulty wiring, faulty terminating resistors, or a faulty module.
The first two are easy to check with a multimeter and a wiring diagram. You'll want to check both the CAN_L and CAN_H wires - they are green and green with red stripe, respectively. They will be twisted together:
There should be no conductivity to ground. There should be no battery voltage from wire to ground or wire to wire. There should be 120 ohms from wire to wire.
You only need to check these in one spot in the harness, not at every module.
Faulty module detection can be tricky. This is where an oscilloscope makes the job infinitely easier. Basically, you're looking for a clean square wave signal on the wires. White noise or other interference suggests a bad module. You can find the culprit by disconnecting each module one-by-one from the harness until the signal is clean. I'd start with the FRM as these have a certain reputation.
Good Luck!
Edit: You'll also want to check continuity of the the wires between each module. But this is time consuming and it's worth doing the o-scope check first.
The first two are easy to check with a multimeter and a wiring diagram. You'll want to check both the CAN_L and CAN_H wires - they are green and green with red stripe, respectively. They will be twisted together:
There should be no conductivity to ground. There should be no battery voltage from wire to ground or wire to wire. There should be 120 ohms from wire to wire.
You only need to check these in one spot in the harness, not at every module.
Faulty module detection can be tricky. This is where an oscilloscope makes the job infinitely easier. Basically, you're looking for a clean square wave signal on the wires. White noise or other interference suggests a bad module. You can find the culprit by disconnecting each module one-by-one from the harness until the signal is clean. I'd start with the FRM as these have a certain reputation.
Good Luck!
Edit: You'll also want to check continuity of the the wires between each module. But this is time consuming and it's worth doing the o-scope check first.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 30
Likes: 3
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6th Gear
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2009 S
sunroof
6-speed
117,000ish miles
Spent the day working on clearing the 93C3 - Seat occupancy detector error. Got that cleared out now. On to the next set.
Error codes:
sunroof
6-speed
117,000ish miles
Spent the day working on clearing the 93C3 - Seat occupancy detector error. Got that cleared out now. On to the next set.
Error codes:
- E584 K-CAN line fault
- DA04 K-CAN line fault
- E104 K-CAN line fault
- C944 K-CAN line fault
- D904 K-CAN line fault
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