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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Hello All, in the middle of rebuilding my head and getting everything all good to drive on my 2007 n14 r56.
Problem: I set out to install the oil pan. I used this gasket maker: Permatex Gasket Maker started to torque all of the bolts and some of them are spinning, might be stripped. ugh.
What do I do now?
1. leave the 2 bolts that are mostly tight (with the gasket maker squeezed out)
2. remove the whole pan? and try to fix the 2 bolts/threads?
ok so I removed the 2 bolts that were not snug and cleaned out the threads from the gasket maker goop. The 1 cleaned out great and I have it torqued down.
NOW I just have 1 that won't snug down. I have cleaned the inside of the threads as well as the bolt threads, I've also used a bolt from another hole to single out if it was the bolt or not. Both the bolts I tried on that hole did not snug all the way, they just get really close and just spin. The hole seems like it's slightly larger than that bolt. I know this mini has had a rough life, do you think someone tried to tap it too large a diameter and that's why it's not seating all the way?
I had one stripped oil pan bolt hole on mine as well. I was able to get a longer bolt (long enough that it protruded about 1/4" past the stripped bolt hole), then I put a nut on the end of the longer bolt and was able to torque it down. Ugly, but it worked. Depending on which hole is stripped, that may or may not be an option for you.
I’m going to play “shade tree” advocate here… If you have all the other 15 bolts torqued to spec, and the oil pan flange isn’t leaking, I would just leave it.
If you’re not satisfied with my response above, I would suggest dropping the pan, and adding a thread insert (timesert or helicoil), then reinstalling the pan.
Second what Nik said, plus keep a close eye on the oil level.
The bolt was stripped by a PO who torqued the F' out of it.
Loctite used to make a thread saver compound - can't recall what they called it. You would put it in the hole, apply a release agent on the bolt and screw things together. I used it a couple of times on lightly loaded bolts, like an oil pan, as I recall it worked well.
I had one stripped oil pan bolt hole on mine as well. I was able to get a longer bolt (long enough that it protruded about 1/4" past the stripped bolt hole), then I put a nut on the end of the longer bolt and was able to torque it down. Ugly, but it worked. Depending on which hole is stripped, that may or may not be an option for you.
This is a great idea!! I checked and it's one of the holes by the exhaust so it doesn't have an exit side, dang it.
I’m going to play “shade tree” advocate here… If you have all the other 15 bolts torqued to spec, and the oil pan flange isn’t leaking, I would just leave it.
If you’re not satisfied with my response above, I would suggest dropping the pan, and adding a thread insert (timesert or helicoil), then reinstalling the pan.
I'm pretty satisfied with your response. I'm going to try it out with the 15 torqued and the last 1 kinda tight, then after i finally start it I'll be able to check for leaks and go from there. IF, it leaks i'm for sure going to check out that loctite solution thefarside suggested or the thread inserts.
THANK YOU everyone for your input, it has been really helpful.