My R56 has been sitting in the driveway for a bit and developed a dead battery. The manual key inside the keyfob turns with no results. Windows don't budge down at all, so the battery is completely flat. Great. I love that MINI designed a car that 100% relies on electricity to even open the door.

So are there any good methods to get in without calling AAA and having them wedge the door open to unlock with a stiff wire?

 

Mechanical door locks should open without electricity. Is it below freezing where you are? Seems odd.

 

Are you sure it is the correct manual key?

 

I'm not so sure that the door locks are 'mechanical', although they feel like it. I think voltage is required. Somebody who has had a door lock apart might confirm this, please.

1 - If the hood is open, just put a jumper pack on the underhood terminal & ground. It's possible, though not at all easy, to release the hood latches from under the front of the car.
2 - If not, it's just possible to get voltage to the starter solenoid.
3 - I've heard that you can take the unit over the licence plate off from the outside - 4 screws? - & get to the back of the trunk switch & apply voltage there.

You don't need heavy jumper cables, just a 12V wire & ground.
Wedging a window open won't help as you still need voltage, although you might be able to pull the hood release this way.
AAA might have other ideas - please let us know!

 

Yes you should be able to open it,
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-with-key.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...o-my-mini.html

 

It'd be great if the locks behaved like normal door locks, but they certainly do not. I can put the mechanical key in and turn it in either direction until the cows come home. The lock doesn't budge. I've never used this key when the battery wasn't flat, so I honestly have no idea if it works as advertised. But it sure isn't doing jack right now, which makes me believe that it absolutely does require some minimal amount of voltage to operate. Traditional lock cylinders can't keep spinning past their locked/unlocked positions, but this one sure can.

Worst case scenario I'll call AAA and have them do their magic again. They wedged the door open just enough to get a stiff wire in to grab the door handle. Maybe I'll just see if I have a wedge door stop lying around somewhere.

This is stupid.

 

Did you try this from the thread " When you insert the key and turn it most people stop at the point of resistance and then say that the door won't open. What you have to do is turn the key to that point of resistance and then KEEP turning. You won't break it. The key is actually manually moving the actuator and that is what causes the high resistance. Most a scared to keep turning harder but that is what gets the lock open."

 

Jacobarber
If you can 'rotate' the lock cylinder, then I suspect the mechanical linkage - if there is one! - is disconnected - it which case getting to the internal door catch may/may not work either.
Try the passenger door.

ECS - do you know if there are 2 separate connections, one from the lock & one from the internal handle?

I'm going to experiment with my car later. I have a feeling this problem may vary by year & model. There are certainly enough posts about it.

 

Turn the key and it moves the lock itself
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7765

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7764

Did you get to try it?

 

ECS - yes & it feels & works the same whether the battery is connected or not.
It locks or unlocks at 45 degrees from vertical. The key will rotate to 90 degrees - horizontal - but no more.
Battery connected - If I lock it & continue to 90 degrees & hold it, the window goes up, but not down if I unlock it that way.
(I didn't check to see if the passenger door or hatch is affected).

 

If you can get a spare charged battery or jumper-pack.... and have some good wires with clips that you can clip onto the positive starter cable.... then you can use this method.

For information purposes only... I recommend taking it to a shop to fix...unless you are a licensed mechanic yourself.

Jack the car up... put safety stands under of course...

Using your battery with jumper clips... attach the battery (+) side to the starter IN battery cable. Then find a good ground and attach that to the battery (-)

Now, you should be able to open your doors with power.

Find your charging problem... AND... Your manual door lock problem... and fix them.
Note: If you are replacing your Battery... It has to be coded to the car.... most places like AutoZone etc offer this free service... otherwise you'll have to find someone that can 'code' this for a mini.






.

 

BTW...With the battery OUT of my 2011 R56-S.... I can unlock my car with the key.


.

 

Makes me want to put a good Metri-Pac 630 connector where I can access it... and run a clean/shielded cable setup directly to the starter and tuck it up under the car where I can get to it easily.... then have the mating connector and some clips to attach it to a battery or my storage charger....

Something like this MP-630 fuse holder... has the cap to attach to the car.... and 'store' the connector when not in use...
And get the mating connector to make the battery lead for this... easy then to clip to any 'Battery Minder' type of maint-charger.




Using high quality 14 Gauge Duplex, tinned marine wire and Quality heat shrink heavy-duty ring terminals for attachment.

OR
A set of decent .... cut one end off.... put on the mating connector... and VIOLA... you have a way to power up low load things with the battery out of the car...or open doors, or trickle charge your battery.

NOT TO JUMPSTART YOUR CAR!!!