2011 Clubman s N18 quit on the wife again
2011 Clubman s N18 quit on the wife again
This time I have a code reader Foxwell NT510 (won't print) Here is what I got for codes.
2D22 /not present Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter. electrical line disconnected.
2C01 /not present High Pressure fuel, plausibility Pressure to low.
2BE9 /not present Cylinder injection cut out, pressure to low in high pressure fuel system
2BF5 /not oresent Rail pressure sensor. plausibility; pressure to low before engine start.
I just replaced the HPFP and seafoamed it and it has been running good and then this came up again. I am thinking the in tank pump. I am having problems getting a fuel system text guage that will connect to the low pressure side of the HPFP. To test it. After it quit on the wife she stopped and first attempt to restart it didn't start second try it started and she was able to get to our shop.
Any ideas gang.
2D22 /not present Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter. electrical line disconnected.
2C01 /not present High Pressure fuel, plausibility Pressure to low.
2BE9 /not present Cylinder injection cut out, pressure to low in high pressure fuel system
2BF5 /not oresent Rail pressure sensor. plausibility; pressure to low before engine start.
I just replaced the HPFP and seafoamed it and it has been running good and then this came up again. I am thinking the in tank pump. I am having problems getting a fuel system text guage that will connect to the low pressure side of the HPFP. To test it. After it quit on the wife she stopped and first attempt to restart it didn't start second try it started and she was able to get to our shop.
Any ideas gang.
You should be able to read the fuel rail pressure with your scan tool. I am pretty sure you can see the low pressure side with it too You don’t necessarily need a gauge.
Wow. That’s a bummer, but it sounds like maybe you have gotten a bunk HPFP, or something. Good luck
Wow. That’s a bummer, but it sounds like maybe you have gotten a bunk HPFP, or something. Good luck
Thank you and yes I found where to read the pressures. Low pressure holding at 72 psi the high side is at 7 or just over and climb as I rev the but after letting the engine return to idle it will drop to 6.58 and rebound. My question now is how steady should these pressures be?
Last edited by Jerry661; Aug 26, 2019 at 12:56 PM.
Thank you and yes I found where to read the pressures. Low pressure holding at 72 psi the high side is at 7 or just over and climb as I rev the but after letting the engine return to idle it will drop to 6.58 and rebound. My question now is how steady should these pressures be?
It just so happens that my HPFP needed replaced a few weeks ago.
While trying to diagnose the problem, I gathered all of that info up. Unfortunately I’m not at home right now, but if you can wait for a couple of hours, I can post it when I get home.
I know that at idle it should be sitting right around 750psi at the fuel rail. It may also be around 1100 psi at idle, and that is fine too. There was a period where MINI apparently updated some ECU’s to run a higher pressure. I know because mine was one of them, and I had a heck of a time figuring out why my fuel pressure was so high, because all of the literature says 750psi. (Thanks again Tigger2011)!!
when they test it at the dealership, the most used diagnostic, imo, is to watch the FRP(fuel rail pressure) on a cold start. And if it drops below a certain number they fail it. I have that # at home. They also look for certain codes and a few other things too, but the SA told me that between the symptoms, the pressure test, and some codes was all they needed to see to replace it.
As for codes, you may or may not get them....you apparently are getting some for low pressure. I never had anything but misfire codes when mine went out. So who knows?
Thank You looking forward to the info. What bothers me is it being so intermittent. But with the codes I got it makes me think bad HPFP again I just put this one in last Thursday.
The intermittent nature of it is one of the most frustrating things about it!
Did you buy a new HPFP from the dealership? Or did you source one elsewhere? If you picked one up from a vendor like ECS or something, it should have a warranty.
If you bought a remanufactured pump, depending on where you got it, I would not be entirely surprised if it’s failed already.
I saw reports and reviews of some of the really cheap ones that said that the thing failed in under 10 miles.... one guy said it only made it for 10 minutes of idling before it crapped out.
You have the old style like I do, made by Continental. Mini switched to a Bosch unit in 03/12. But the part cannot be retrofitted to an older one. Well, I suppose it technically could be done. But from what I saw, at the very least, you need to also replace the head and ECU itself, in order to use the newer pump. Which is a shame.
Did you buy a new HPFP from the dealership? Or did you source one elsewhere? If you picked one up from a vendor like ECS or something, it should have a warranty.
If you bought a remanufactured pump, depending on where you got it, I would not be entirely surprised if it’s failed already.
I saw reports and reviews of some of the really cheap ones that said that the thing failed in under 10 miles.... one guy said it only made it for 10 minutes of idling before it crapped out.
You have the old style like I do, made by Continental. Mini switched to a Bosch unit in 03/12. But the part cannot be retrofitted to an older one. Well, I suppose it technically could be done. But from what I saw, at the very least, you need to also replace the head and ECU itself, in order to use the newer pump. Which is a shame.
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Hello, were did you get it, as grumpy said if you get it from us we have warranties, Continental was the maker of the pump. The cheap ones we see on ebay and amazon (oasis brand and others fail right down the road).
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-hpfp-4.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ge-hpfp-4.html
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Hey there, I apologize for the delay... it was one of “those” nights last night, lol.
What the guys from ECS up there said is exactly what I was talking about. Some of those off brand ones are junk apparently. I would only buy either a straight up OEM replacement from a vendor, or I have seen a few decent reviews on some of the remanufactured Continental pumps available on Amazon and some other places for about half the cost of a new one. But for piece of mind and the new part warranty of at least a year, OEM is my suggestion.
I found the stuff I had saved when diagnosing mine. I hope this will help. If I leave something out, hopefully someone will correct me. Or you can pm me or whatever.
Like I mentioned before, the fuel rail pressure should be around 725-750psi. But some are higher.
On a cold start, if you insert the key and turn on the ignition without starting the car (key in, push start/stop button with foot OFF of the brake pedal.), you should be reading pressure from the low pressure pump in the fuel tank. It should be about 5bar while cranking. I believe 5 bar is right around 72-73 psi.
Some scan tools allow you to monitor live data, and yours should too. It is basically the same as the Schwaben scan tool. It should be able to show you the ecu’s Requested pressure vs actual pressure.
If the fuel pressure does not immediately jump up near where it should be on cold start, and while it’s running rough, you will be able to see that the fuel rail pressure is below what it is supposed to be. For instance, mine, while it was running rough right after start-up, was showing FRP just barely over 100psi, then it built up quickly to normal and the idle smoothed out. So it was showing me that right after start-up for a moment or two, the HPFP wasn’t really working at all, because the pressure was barely over the low pressure fuel pump pressure. Then it kicked in or something and pressurized it to normal and it was ok for the day after that, unless the car sat for an extended period during the day, in which case it could happen again. But it was intermittent. It would act up for a couple of mornings, then be fine, for months at first. But the time in between “incidents “ gradually reduced more and more, until it was doing it nearly daily. Then daily, and I was worried about it quitting on me while I was out away from home with my kid or my wife, or both, and wasn’t about to get left stranded somewhere. I was shopping for a good deal, knowing I was out of the warranty extension by 9k miles. But on a whim, I reached out to the service manager at the dealership (it didn’t hurt the he and I belong to the same Mini club) and he called back a few hours later and said “bring it in on Monday “ So I got very lucky.
What the guys from ECS up there said is exactly what I was talking about. Some of those off brand ones are junk apparently. I would only buy either a straight up OEM replacement from a vendor, or I have seen a few decent reviews on some of the remanufactured Continental pumps available on Amazon and some other places for about half the cost of a new one. But for piece of mind and the new part warranty of at least a year, OEM is my suggestion.
I found the stuff I had saved when diagnosing mine. I hope this will help. If I leave something out, hopefully someone will correct me. Or you can pm me or whatever.
Like I mentioned before, the fuel rail pressure should be around 725-750psi. But some are higher.
On a cold start, if you insert the key and turn on the ignition without starting the car (key in, push start/stop button with foot OFF of the brake pedal.), you should be reading pressure from the low pressure pump in the fuel tank. It should be about 5bar while cranking. I believe 5 bar is right around 72-73 psi.
Some scan tools allow you to monitor live data, and yours should too. It is basically the same as the Schwaben scan tool. It should be able to show you the ecu’s Requested pressure vs actual pressure.
If the fuel pressure does not immediately jump up near where it should be on cold start, and while it’s running rough, you will be able to see that the fuel rail pressure is below what it is supposed to be. For instance, mine, while it was running rough right after start-up, was showing FRP just barely over 100psi, then it built up quickly to normal and the idle smoothed out. So it was showing me that right after start-up for a moment or two, the HPFP wasn’t really working at all, because the pressure was barely over the low pressure fuel pump pressure. Then it kicked in or something and pressurized it to normal and it was ok for the day after that, unless the car sat for an extended period during the day, in which case it could happen again. But it was intermittent. It would act up for a couple of mornings, then be fine, for months at first. But the time in between “incidents “ gradually reduced more and more, until it was doing it nearly daily. Then daily, and I was worried about it quitting on me while I was out away from home with my kid or my wife, or both, and wasn’t about to get left stranded somewhere. I was shopping for a good deal, knowing I was out of the warranty extension by 9k miles. But on a whim, I reached out to the service manager at the dealership (it didn’t hurt the he and I belong to the same Mini club) and he called back a few hours later and said “bring it in on Monday “ So I got very lucky.
Order a new pump from ECS even though everything is working fine today. I put the code reader on it this morning and it still had 72.5 on the low side so it is holding good. Started the car and had good high side pressure and it idled fine. Monday when I started it cold it ran ruff for a short time then smoothed out. I will get my money back from Rockauto they are very good about backing there parts.
Ok new pump installed first run it acted strange came back shut it of and started it again and it rab fine only now I am getting a 37DE code crank case heater line? Need to figure that one out. Keeping fingers crossed that it is fixed.
Welcome
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Ok It started again same codes for the HPFP so I call ECS tuning and talk to customer service and find out that I have to send the pump back in the original box before they will send me a new one or spend another $980.00. Well the recycle has been pick up and I no longer have the box. So I guess I'm suppose to spend another 980.00 to get a box then wait for a refund.
I guess I need to find another parts supplier I guess if a part has a 3 yr. warranty your suppose it keep a box laying around for 3 yrs.
Last edited by Jerry661; Sep 17, 2019 at 01:27 PM.
hello - Just saw this, sorry it did not work out for you, let me reach out to my guys here.
Something is going on that is not the HPFP if it keeps failing. My guess is the connection or possible the LPFP is causing issues. Can you hear the LPFP in the fuel tank prime before you get in the car. Can you hear it whine/run while the car is on. It will whine in the tank the whole time in the rear of the car.
Something is going on that is not the HPFP if it keeps failing. My guess is the connection or possible the LPFP is causing issues. Can you hear the LPFP in the fuel tank prime before you get in the car. Can you hear it whine/run while the car is on. It will whine in the tank the whole time in the rear of the car.
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I put my code reader on it before starting it and it showed 72.5 psi. I when I start the car it holds 72.5 steady. I will mess with it some more. Also when I changed the pump there was fuel pressure at the connection and it had been off all night.
Ok, yea, I think the HPFP is fine and to fail once.. ok cheaper unit. .. to fail twice ( run for a while ok) sounds like something else is triggering it and the new HPFP bought some time. Have you changed the fuel filter at all or messed with the LPFP, Just want to make sure its not seeing a split second dip and the HPFP is not liking that. Also check those fuel line, are they on there and secure (gasket maybe in the fuels way and got bumped) and the the wire harness have a short, check with a voltmeter to see if the current jumps when you move the wires.
Let us know.
Let us know.
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Pump hums just fine pressure on the low side 72.5 before starting. On one restart the HP side only came up to 4.5 bars at first the engine ran ruff then the pressure pick up to 7.2. Also after revving the engine some times the pressure would fall to 6.4 when returning to idle.
Ok, one other thing is to check the fuel rail pressure sensor. Some guys have said that fixes it.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...o-i-would.html
Can i have the part number off the side of your sensor? I believe this is the one, want to double check.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/13537537319/
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...o-i-would.html
Can i have the part number off the side of your sensor? I believe this is the one, want to double check.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/13537537319/
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Last edited by ECSTuning; Sep 17, 2019 at 03:09 PM.
Yes thats the one linked above 13537537319
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