Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

No Ignition After Jump Start

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  #1  
Old 02-16-2019, 06:34 PM
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No Ignition After Jump Start

My '05 S convertible sat for a few months and had a dead battery. Tried charging but the battery was so dead it wasn't charging, added jumper cables from Jeep and it would spin over but slowly. Decided the dead battery was killing voltage so it wasn't going to start like that. Replaced dead battery with brand new NAPA battery, now it spins but no start.

I can hear the fuel pump. The coil is recent MSD replacement and the car was running great prior to parking but now there's no spark. Yes, it's full of fuel. Checked all fuses and they are fine, even switched some relays around thinking one might be sticking but no start. I haven't put a light on an injector plug yet to see if it is getting a signal.

Tonight I reset the ECU thinking that might help but no luck. I'm wondering if the time spent with a totally dead battery or the jump starting has triggered the anti-theft system or killed an ignition component. I've done some searching but can't seem to find much beyond bad batteries and fuel pumps. Any ideas out there!? Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 06:47 PM
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Where was the car kept while it was sitting? I know here in Texas mice and rats really seem to love wires.
 
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:00 AM
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The car is garaged at home when not used, wife's X3 and people in and out daily so it's not in a warehouse or deck... That doesn't mean that one of our FL rats hasn't snuck in and munched on something but it ran not that long ago...

I'm thinking it has something to do with the battery being so dead there wasn't a light coming on. A charger on boost on underhood connections and jumper cables on the battery and it would barely spin, maybe some electronics are damaged or anti-theft is at play here.

If anti theft is the issue then does it turn off fuel and ignition? Any other indications?
 
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:07 AM
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It is the dead battery causing it. It takes a lot of revs and time to jump start a mini. If the battery is truley dead and even damaged it will never start. If it won't take a charge overnight, then you need a replacement.

Edit : well, there you go, I cannot read properly... my bad.
 

Last edited by Scudder44; 02-18-2019 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Scudder44
It is the dead battery causing it. It takes a lot of revs and time to jump start a mini. If the battery is truley dead and even damaged it will never start. If it won't take a charge overnight, then you need a replacement.
OP stated that the car turns over but won't start with a new battery.
 
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Old 02-18-2019, 04:48 PM
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LOL! Yeah, brand new battery with 100% charge, etc... Haven't had a chance to check crank sensor, cam sensor and if the injectors of getting signal. I'm thinking if the cam and crank sensors work on ohm meter and injectors aren't getting power and/or ecu ground to fire them then it almost has to be CAS/EWS issues. If cam or crank sensors are bad then it won't fire injectors or ignition, right? Are we having fun yet!?
 
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:56 AM
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Have you checked the ingintion switch?

This post will help you check the switch
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-switch.html

The switch is an easy check taking less then 30 minutes to get at. If it goes out, the car will fail to start regardless of how much you try as it controls the signal to start.
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:08 AM
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No, I wasn't aware that the ignition switch could be an issue. The starter does engage when trying to start it, it just doesn't have spark or fuel.

Yesterday I did put the OBDII reader on it that has worked before with this very car and repeatedly got "Cannot Establish Connection", hmmmmm... Found there is ground at injector plugs but no + signal (must be backazzerds from Jay-pan types w computer controlling ground to fire injectors) and the other sensors seem to be working. In the midst of checking things with ing switch on, the power steering pump mysteriously came on and ran until it smelled HOT. Very odd stuff here...

I'm wondering if the ECU hasn't let its smoke out during the previously mentioned heroic jump starting of the bigly dead old battery, that might explain a lot of what's going and not going on here. I'm afraid this is going to wind up with Hans, Fritz und Komputer, plan on talking to local independent german car place before dragging to stealership....
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 07:08 AM
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I’d check the ignition switch first.
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 12:14 PM
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You need to unplug the wire on the back of the coil and spray electronic cleaner on the coil contacts and the wire contacts. Test for spark again. If you have spark, it will most likely start.
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:14 PM
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I know you said the fuses are good, but did you check both under the hood and the kick plate on the drivers side. It sounds like you immobilized has kicked in (like the key has lost its programming). Also, when you changed the battery, did you check the ecu cables?
 
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:37 PM
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Have you read the error codes?
 
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Old 02-25-2019, 05:29 AM
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I looked at the fuses under hood and in cabin, nothing blown. Even swapped some relays around under the hood thinking maybe one was acting up but no difference.

The MSD coil pack is only a few months old but this afternoon I'll spray some cleaner in the plug just in case.

I can't read error codes as the OBDII reader that has worked with the car before shows an error that it can't communicate with the car. I've borrowed another reader and will try again this afternoon.

If it is the immobilizer or CAS/EWS then how is that reset?

Is there a lead in a plug that I can check to see if ign switch is the issue without column apart? It seems like that if all the lights come on, the starter is energized, etc that the switch is ok.

I know one key is dead as it won't unlock the car, I think that's the one that's been left sitting in the drink holder while in garage and now I wonder if it's run itself down trying to communicate with the car even though not in ignition...
 
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by abh3
If it is the immobilizer or CAS/EWS then how is that reset?

Is there a lead in a plug that I can check to see if ign switch is the issue without column apart? It seems like that if all the lights come on, the starter is energized, etc that the switch is ok.
Take the time to pull a part the column to pull the switch as that is the only way you will be able to test it. There are maybe 5 screws that have to be removed or lossened to get to the switch.

The failure point on the switch seems the be the channel that suppilies power for the CAS/EWS systems. A failed switch will let you spin the engine but not start regardless of how much you try.

Now as to the OBD reader not working, make sure you check the ground straps. I've had issues where they have worked a little loose, but it was enough to cause issues.
 
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Old 02-27-2019, 03:50 PM
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HAHA! The jokes on me but at least it wasn't too expensive ($89 at local furrin car specialist for diagnosis). Of course, they also recommend $4,900 of other work to the car, 11 hours to replace oil pan gasket to fix small leak, replace factory spring hose clamps with screw clamps, etc. Ummmm, thanks but no thanks, we'll peck away at it as we time/money and probably just check the oil and coolant from time to time....

So I'd EYEBALLED the fuses but the ECU fuse was BAD anway, I guess it's time for some glasses to be fitted on this geezer or maybe start using a meter to check fuses instead of just glancing at them with my head stuck in the footwell. Hey, who do you believe, a meter or my lying eyes!?

Thanks to all for the input! Next battle is shaping up to be the rear window regulators, say a little prayer for me if you would...
 
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Old 03-01-2019, 07:17 PM
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Hmmm, post disappeared, not sure what happened.

Basically the joke's on me, the ECU fuse was bad. My old eyes didn't see it and I'm too dumb to use a meter to check fuses, duh... Time to see if Wallyworld is running a special at their optometrist booth and to start using any one of the several meters laying around here!!

Thanks for all the input!
 
  #17  
Old 03-02-2019, 09:56 AM
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Glad it all worked out

These cars do NOT like to sit. You need to drive them at least once a week, if only for a few minutes

all the best
 
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Old 03-06-2019, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by abh3
HAHA! The jokes on me but at least it wasn't too expensive ($89 at local furrin car specialist for diagnosis). Of course, they also recommend $4,900 of other work to the car, 11 hours to replace oil pan gasket to fix small leak, replace factory spring hose clamps with screw clamps, etc. Ummmm, thanks but no thanks, we'll peck away at it as we time/money and probably just check the oil and coolant from time to time....

So I'd EYEBALLED the fuses but the ECU fuse was BAD anway, I guess it's time for some glasses to be fitted on this geezer or maybe start using a meter to check fuses instead of just glancing at them with my head stuck in the footwell. Hey, who do you believe, a meter or my lying eyes!?

Thanks to all for the input! Next battle is shaping up to be the rear window regulators, say a little prayer for me if you would...
My 05 also had a small oil leak which I thought was the pan (bought a gasket and everything) but after much staring, cleaning and searching it turned out that the oil leak was from the o'ring on a sensor (common issue) on the front of the engine, this only leaks when being driven (i.e. you will not see oil on the ground) and the airflow pushes down and back onto the oil pan making it look like the pan is leaking.. The only way to get to that sensor is to remove the radiator to get access so I never bothered in the end.

I think it is this: https://hausofminis.com/2015/05/oil-leaks/
 
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