I bought this 07 MCS with 88K miles. I knew the engine was bad and got it for a good price. The previous owner gave me the exhaust sprocket and broken bolt when I bought it.

Finally got it taken apart and for sure the vacuum pump looks like it ceased up. (I took the outer case off first and both the case and cover are dry and have scrape marks)
I also found the top timing chain mount cracked.

The lady told me she had just gotten gas and was still in the parking lot when it died. Because of this, I wonder if the valves are still good. My plan was to put it back together and do a compression check.

Now with the top guide being cracked, I'm not sure that is a good idea. I'd rather use the old timing chain and guides to do the compression check instead of installing a new set only to have to pull the head if the compression fails. I will change them if the compression is good.

What do you think I should do?

 

Sounds like a good plan --- hope you have all the timing tools and instructions, Mini timing isn't a job for a novice, and should be done before any engine rotation. You might want to do a few manual revs first, to ensure there's no valve-to-piston contact. And, before cranking, I'd replace the broken guide too. Remember, replace all TTY bolts during final assy, and no CCW engine rotations.

Good luck ---

 

 

Top guide is needed to ensure timing is correct. If timing is off, piston-valve contact is possible. It's possible that timing can be off "a little" when cranking, but I don't want to be the one suggesting you crank the engine without a good guide.

You say "I have the tools and my son is a trained mechanic." You need the special tools and specific Mini Cooper timing instructions / experience. Don't even think about setting timing without both.

What are your plans if compression is bad? Pull head and inspect for damage? Leak down test? Part it out?

 

No not parting it. I'm fixing it. I bought it for me since my daughter took the R52.
I have all the special tools right now except the crank tool. I also have the Bently manual and have done this before in an R50.

I ordered a top guide. Found one reasonable for testing. Will keep you posted. I'll probably have a few questions as I go

 

When you get around to ordering parts, be sure to look for part kits instead of individual pieces. Especially true for the head sub-assembly gaskets and timing chain / guides. Then, if you strip the head for a machine shop, you'll need the fuel injector (FI) seal special tool, to put it back together --- check out the Bentley procedure. Either buy the tool or have a shop (that already has the tool) do the FI install for you --- price will be about the same. Best of luck ---

 

I thinknat a minimum you need to replace the top guide. The last thing you need is for it to break and cause more damage and clean up efforts.

 

I've been reading the Bentley manual and watching videos. I am still confused about the chain tensioner. The Bentley does not say to install or remove it. When I do the VANOS it say to put something like 3.8 pounds of pressure on the guide.

When do I install the tensioner? How do I measure 3.8 pounds?

 

I personally never used it. My order to tightening is intake, tensioner, exhaust, then crankshaft. The torques are from the manual.

But to answer the questions, there another tool you might be aware of. The torque seems like a hand tight of only 6.1Nm.

 

I'm not exactly sure what your asking. Are you asking about pretension on the timing chain to remove slack before tightening the cam and crank bolts? If that's it then you need a special tool that goes into the chain tensioner hole that applies the said load. The preload is done by a bolt in the tensioner tool that presses on the chain. That might be the preload torque setting your reading. To get an accurate torque adjustment multiply the pounds of torque required by 12 to get inch pounds. This will be more accurate using an inch pound torque wrench.
Or again I may have totally missed your point LOL. Good luck

 

Sorry If I was not clear. I do have the tool kit that has the pretensioner in it. I just don't know when to install the pretensioner and then the tensioner.
Bentley, under the Timing, Chain Remove and Install, it tells you to remove the tensioner after you remove the Vibration Dampener. Then it tells you to install the VANOS after the crank hub is installed. Under the VANOS installation, it says to install the pretensioner and apply 3.5 in-lb of pressure. After the VANOS is installed, you remove the pre-tensioner and install the tensioner.

How do I apply 3.5 in-lb of pressure or does it automatically apply this pressure? The pretensioner tool that came with my kit has a center bolt that applies the pressure.

PS. Is there any need to take out the VANOS solenoid during the timing process?

 

I've stripped down my clubby #2 today to do the exact same thing your doing. Only mine just totally lost the top guide not the vacuum pump. I'm checking for valve damage right at the rockers themselves. If a rocker isn't contacting a vavle when it's NOT being pushed down by the cam lobe then the valve would be bent and not fully seating. So basically you're looking for excessive valve lash. If you have next to zero lash then you should be 95% there, only lastly doing a compression test to verify engine health. I wouldn't even touch the intake gear if your not replacing the chain and lower guides just to test compression. Put the new upper guide on after you install the exhaust gear with the cam locks on. You may get lucky this way, I haven't done it myself, but were my thoughts of what I may do. The preload with the dummy tensioner stops the chain from moving, so torque it to spec. The real tensioner, if installed while torquing things down, will allow everything to move.

 

Bet the vacuum pump was starved for oil by the looks or low oil from long oil changes and such, just make sure nothing else looks low, did you check the oil level?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...en-nozzle.html

DIY here^^

 

ECS, are my thoughts on valve lash and bent valves correct? I can find no other thread with this thought process in it.

 

 

Its a gamble that those valves are not bent with what happens, when the vacuum pump locks its because of low oil or clogged vacuum pump.
Those you would have to inspect. Compare the new part to the old. Its hard to know whats really going on without fixing a couple things and then a video with a small cam and cracnk the engine by hand once it fixed up and what the valves in side the cylinder with a small cam put down the spark plug hole.

 

OK, I got the parts that I needed for the retiming.

As suggested, the cranks turns over just fine with no hard spots, or rubs. Once I get the crank pinned, I'll work on setting the cams in the right position.

Update: I have it all back together but not torqued. Here is where at. I need advice.
Cam tools installed, crank pinned.
Tensioner backed out completely.
Chain reinstalled on VANOS and exhaust sprocket.
I have a new bolt installed in the exhaust cam
THE VANOS AND CRANK BOLTS ARE STILL TIGHTENED FROM FACTORY
"Need advice here" I will need to loosen the VANOS bolt and maybe the crank. Since I am TEMPORARILY using the bolts to check compression, what should I torque them to or do I need to get new bolts just for the test?
Also, I've seen some people give an order to tighten that may not agree with Bentley (Crank, Vanos, Install Tensioner, Exhaust)

What's the recommendations?

 

Yes, there's only one hole the locking tool fits. If you have trouble engaging it, try using a small screwdriver or drill bit to locate the hole, then jockey the flywheel around 'til the tool engages. Stick or straw trick will work twice during one revolution. Correct will be when cyl #1 is moving up. BTW, you only need two sticks / straws --- cyls 1 & 2 or 3 & 4.

My tensioner takes a 27mm wrench.

Best of luck ---

 

 

 

EDit: I read the tightening sequence wrong. Crank, Exhaust, Vanos, then tensioner reinstall.

 

Briefly, this is how I set it ---
-Tensioner out
-All guides and chain installed
-Lock flywheel and cams (with loose sprockets)
-Install and preset tensioner tool
-Tighten both sprockets
-Remove tensioner tool and install tensioner
-Remove crank and cam locking tools
-Crank engine manually a couple turns, CW only
-Lock crank and ensure cam locking tools will install WITHOUT loosening anything
-If OK, remove locks and do CR testing. Otherwise repeat from Lock flywheel step


Pretty sure these are called "star" sockets. Sometimes referred to as "female torx" sockets. The size these bolts need is E14. Suggest you get a kit, both Torx and Star, 'cause they're pretty common inside the engine, i.e., head bolts in your pics.

Here's a procedure to check chain stretch limits. Useful when chain isn't new.

 

Thanks for the info.
The $64K questions is what to torque the Vanos bolt to? I did not buy a new bolt for the VANOS since it will come in the kit when I change the timing chain.
Since it's been stretched once already, I don't want to break it off, but I do want it tight for the compression check.
What do you think?

Edit: Oldbrokenwind, I saw your info about the bolt after I typed this.

 

As I suggested earlier " --- a bit less than spec." I don't have ready access to the spec, but even re-tightening to spec should be safe for CR testing, without breaking the bolt. Another thought --- since this bolt will be temporary, why not use a hardware store bolt, lock-washer, etc. just for testing? All you want is a sprocket that's tight for a few rev's, and the spec without added turning should be tight enough. Just my opinion. Worst case, buy a couple extra TTY bolts --- good insurance for just a few bucks.