OK, it's been 7 days since the dealership has flashed my ECU to version v39.2 I was on v36 prior to this.

I figured I'd give my ECU some time to "learn" prior to posting any issues/concerns I have. So now that I've put on some miles over the last 7 days, I'd like to bring you some of my findings.

My car's throttle response is very herky-jerky. You know that jerk you feel when your coasting down (no throttle) in gear around 1800 RPMs where the fuel is turned back on? Well, now I get that when I release from WOT or when I pick up the throttle from a no throttle position. As a matter of fact I can feel it at part throttle as well in some cases. Also there seems to be some sort of oscillation just after I release or pick-up the throttle. This is VERY annoying.

Even my carpool ride, in the passenger seat, can feel the difference between the two software versions. I want my old version back!

Any suggestions on how to convince the dealership to put 36 back on?

 

Join the club.... the dealer here in OC said they CANNOT put the old software back.....sigh

 

Unfortunately, I joined the club last week too. I HAD to have V39.? done because I actually had a malfunction in the emissions control system...... after I received the recall notice. They found codes for multiple misfire. After I was re-mapped with GIAC, the engine was purr-fect....and now I'm getting some of the same symptoms that you mention. I'm not a happy camper and will be bringing this up at least by the time I go in for my 25,000 mi. service in another fifteen hundred miles. This has absolutely nothing to do with any mods that I have done.

I have already collected a settlement for 'the stumble' that I lived with
for thirteen months and will not hestitate to go the legal route again
backed by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, but I'm willing to be patient for a bit and let them try to figure it out.

WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO ABOUT IT, MINI USA????? HUH???

 

Sorry to hear of this guys. I'm waiting it out as long as possible.

Have any idea how long before we HAVE to get the upgrade done??

 

I would imagine that you'll need to have it done by the time of your next
emissions test. I'll be in San Francisco for the holidays....visiting my daughter and grandaughters and will be happy to leave this frustration behind for a couple of weeks.

 

Thanks for the responce. I'm gonna wait, I have a feeling BMW will come out with a few newer versions shortly....they better.

Have fun out here on your visit, hopefully the weather stays nice.

Good luck with your MINI when you get back.

James

 

They are going to switch to a Peugot engine... I doubt we will ever see a working version. Something has to go. They can make it better but then they have emission problems. The only other solution would be to lower the HP of the car. They won't do that for fear of lawsuits. If they haven't figured it out by now I doubt they ever will. Sorry to be so negative but how many revisions have they had???

 

Did you get your wheels yet???

 

nope.

 

Decided to get control arms first, should be here in a couple days. Then when the runflats are done, it's new rims and tires.

 

I have had 39 for about two weeks now. I know before I even pulled out of the dealer’s lot, before I even turned on the car I reset the ECU from the drivers seat. Turned it on, gave it a few good rev's and then drove off with a heavy foot to make the ECU learn it's a race car. So far I have not had any problems and it feels like the car is stronger, and am getting better gas mileage. Has anyone tried to reset the ECU?

 

how does one "reset the ecu from the driver's seat"?

 

I have a MC and I too am getting much better MPG and throttle response. Overall I feel like the car is faster.

 

well this is just great, just when i keep on hearing a lot of positive thoughts on v39, this and a few other threads come along. now i am torn debating if i should upgrade or not, ihave v38 and herky jerky as mentioned, so i guessi have nothing to lose?

 

this is strange because ALL Cooper owners have reported with positive results from the upgrade while MCS owners are getting all the negs.

I wonder if they are upgrading the different models with the same software and that's what is tweaking the S' out?

 

I have had V39 since 2 weeks ago and the car feels virtually the same when I had V36 prior to the recall update....

However, during the past week or so I have been experiencing an intermittent "Rough idle" like if the engine suddenly started to cough. The RPMs get lower bounce back and forth and then it recovers. No stumble, yo-yo, no cold start issues, nothing the car rides, drives fantastic, excellent throttle response and better gas mileage but this "choppy idle" is the only thing casting a shadow over the update V39.

The rough idel didn't happen with V36 and like I said this is very sporadic, happens one day one time and never happens agains for a few days and then it does it again. There is no specific pattern in which the issue can be reproduced. It does happen when the engine is fully warmed up with or without the A/C. Weather is been "cooler" for Miami standards in the '70's and low '80's.

I am going to see if this smooths out but if it continues I have no choice but to report the problem to MINIUSA and my dealer.


My car was 100% fine before the recall update!!

 

Our '02 Cooper CVT also got the V39 update the car is running like a champ.

Yes you are correct. It seems the bulk of the issues are concentric to MCS owners!

 

I theorize that, as AGOKART said, you have to reset the ECU [test 19, subtest 21] to make V39 run well, just like I discovered with V38. The car will run like CRAP until you reset the ECU. The was never an issue with earlier software versions, and I honetly can't say what the reset literally does, other than guess the reset "makes the code happy".

Whatever works

 

Ryan:

Can I go to my MCS and do this right now, or do I need a special tool/reader to reset the ECU?

I have never done this. Is this something I should do or not?

 

Also, can resetting be done via disconnecting the battery?

 

OK, I just did it! I reset My ECU using MINI2.com's detailed instructions...very cool!


We'll see how it goes from this point on.

Below are the instructions to how to access the computer's "back door" thru your LCD speedo display:
Seeing as I mentioned this in another thread elsewhere on MINI2, here's a quick how-to on getting a bit more information from your MINI's computer.

The information displays in place of your mileometer, so you DO NOT have to have the MINI OBC/Trip Computer option to see this.

A complete list of functions is below, this example is how to get into the menu number '7'.

1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1.
2. The screen will say 'Test' and a number.
3. Scroll through, (pressing reset button) through to test 19 and wait a moment.
4. Wait and the message will say "log i-off" then "log i-on" and back to "log i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press again. You are now in the system. (Woooo)
5. You can (if you wish) start the ignition any time from now.
6. Scroll through to test 7.0 (or whichever from the list below) and wait a moment, after a pause you will enter the test 7.* range of information.
7. You can scroll through now (7.1,7.2,7.3 etc.) using the reset button.
8. You can exit each menu by pressing, holding for a few seconds, then releasing the reset button.
9. To leave the system scroll to 19 and leave it for a few moments.
   Switching off the ignition also exits the system.

Test:

1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.

2.0 Combisystem Test

3.0 Service intervall counter

4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.

5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.

6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)

7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed

8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3

9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)

10.0 Land codes

11.0 Unit codes

12.0 No funktion

13.0 Gong test

14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures

15.0 - 18.0 No funktion

19.0 On/Off for Test menu.

20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption
Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.

20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value

21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)

Notes:

I have not been able to get speed into MPH, if you can update me with how to do this (if it's possible), then feel free to do so.

Your MINI's computer may give more or less information than stated above

 

Of note after resetting the ECU:

1. Drive the SNOT out of the car, i.e. pretend you're on the racetrack...foot to the floor, no exceptions.
2. Did I mention FULL THROTTLE?
3. Whatever you do, don't stall the car, bog it down, or do anything moronic during the 1st ignition cycle post-reset. If you do, it'll run like crap again and you'll want to reset it again.

I have developed a reset-bed-in procedure:
1. run the car to warm the engine to eliminate the risk of it stalling due to cold-start problem
2. reset the ecu
3. start the car and let it idle for a minute
4. rev the engine a few times (both part-throttle revving and full-throttle revving, and then let it idle for another minute)
5. Turn it off
6. Restart and go on a short and aggressive drive (lots of WOT)

Yes, kinda, well maybe. You'll have to leave the battery off the car for a while and hope the ECU's power supply caps have discharged and subsequently erased the adaptive logic RAM (assuming that's what they're using). If it's flash based, then the software reset will be the only effective way. Also, you might lose your radio and clock settings by disconnecting the battery.

 

thanks alot for the info. guys.

I feel better about the upgrade now. Still want to hear results though, so please let us know.

 

yeah like ryan said...:smile:

 

In Step 5, You can (if you wish) start the ignition any time from now.


Do you actually start the engine or not?