Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

r53 shakes at idle

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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 10:32 AM
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r53 shakes at idle

i got 03 mini cooper s with 91k miles and I really have bad vibrations at idle when car is warmed up.
I know a lot of people will say it's engine mount but i've replaced them all but nothing is changed. I replaced them since engine shakes really bad.
so I am chasing with other stuff and found air blows out when oil cap is off. I've watched the video on youtube and I replaced the pcv valve but it's still same. the reason why i replaced was i just guessed there is something wrong with air flow in engine.
Now i'm wondering if pcv valve hose or intake hose (link below) are bad, does that make happen? I am not a mechanic person but i'm planning to replace them if it's easy to replace.
Please let me know your opinion. I've got K&N typhoon intake.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Mini-Co...e/231572985514
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Hose...S/323032598026
 
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 01:50 PM
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For your engine shake at idle, my first thoughts are as follows:

Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......

Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....

Bryan
 
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Old Nov 2, 2018 | 03:04 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by A383Wing
For your engine shake at idle, my first thoughts are as follows:

Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......

Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....

Bryan
Unfortunately, there was no engine codes.. engine runs fine but shake though..
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 06:15 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by A383Wing
For your engine shake at idle, my first thoughts are as follows:

Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......

Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....

Bryan
I might have to start from the spark plugs. my mini has 15% reduction pulley and MSD ignition coil and wires.
do you think this will fit to my car?
Amazon Amazon
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 06:43 PM
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With the 15% pulley, you'll want the colder plugs (NGK Iridium BKR7EIX) to prevent detonation.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cooper48
With the 15% pulley, you'll want the colder plugs (NGK Iridium BKR7EIX) to prevent detonation.
Thanks for the recommendation.
I've purchased this before and replaced them year and half ago and ran only 11k.
https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR7EQUP-Laser-Platinum-Spark/dp/B01DMFH9RG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mini%7C32&Model=Cooper%7C218&Year=2003%7C2003&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive https://www.amazon.com/NGK-BKR7EQUP-Laser-Platinum-Spark/dp/B01DMFH9RG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mini%7C32&Model=Cooper%7C218&Year=2003%7C2003&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive
I don't exactly remember that it happened before I installed them..
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 12:49 PM
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Pull your spark plug and take a picture of them, that can give you an indication if it is lean or running rich

Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings

When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 05:07 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by GPToyz
Pull your spark plug and take a picture of them, that can give you an indication if it is lean or running rich

Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings

When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
i just recorded video on iphone. I recorded while i turned ac on and drove on traffic freeway.
Please let me know if you find something wrong. Thanks
 
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 09:10 AM
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It happens during idle right?

So you want to log the values while it's idling and what I'd really like to see are the fuel trimming values
 
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 03:38 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by GPToyz
It happens during idle right?

So you want to log the values while it's idling and what I'd really like to see are the fuel trimming values
This is another one and i recorded while i was driving. I checked the oil level and it was really low. I changed oil about 4 months ago and ran only 3-4k miles.

 
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 03:49 PM
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Which engine mounts did you replace?
And did that include the transmission mount on the drivers side ?
What brand / type mounts did you replace them with, OEM or harder versions for competition ?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 03:53 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by Eurothrasher
Which engine mounts did you replace?
And did that include the transmission mount on the drivers side ?
What brand / type mounts did you replace them with, OEM or harder versions for competition ?
It's aftermarket ebay engine mounts and i installed powerflex poly on transmission mount.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2018 | 07:26 AM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by GPToyz
Pull your spark plug and take a picture of them, that can give you an indication if it is lean or running rich

Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings

When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
are they looking bad?




 
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Old Nov 17, 2018 | 10:52 AM
  #14  
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Yeah they’re pretty dirty. Your grounds are pretty eroded too.
 

Last edited by Tgriffithjr; Nov 17, 2018 at 11:04 AM.
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 05:50 PM
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You note issue is bad idle and then only when warm. Otherwise I assume car drives well and motor pulls OK.

If the mounts are good, then I would look at the vacuum hoses. There could be a crack that is hard to see. Or one that has come undone. Most of the other things would affect the car at higher rpm or under acceleration.

Did the rough idle happen at a particular time, like right after working on the car? If so, recheck everything you did along with all of the things nearby.

The only other difference between cold and warm is the O2 sensors (closed loop vs. open loop). Car runs a little rich in open loop, but the O2 sensors come on line pretty quickly, way before the car is close to fully warmed up.

Regards,
Jerry
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 05:58 PM
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Silly question but have you looked at the harmonic balancer for issues
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 06:35 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by gsfent
You note issue is bad idle and then only when warm. Otherwise I assume car drives well and motor pulls OK.

If the mounts are good, then I would look at the vacuum hoses. There could be a crack that is hard to see. Or one that has come undone. Most of the other things would affect the car at higher rpm or under acceleration.

Did the rough idle happen at a particular time, like right after working on the car? If so, recheck everything you did along with all of the things nearby.

The only other difference between cold and warm is the O2 sensors (closed loop vs. open loop). Car runs a little rich in open loop, but the O2 sensors come on line pretty quickly, way before the car is close to fully warmed up.

Regards,
Jerry
yes it runs fine but whole car shakes 25-30mph. Today i replaced ignition coil and wire and i thought it made better but it was only few moments. Rough idle happens when car is warmed up. Let’s say after like 5 mins or so..and when i turn ac on, it gets worse.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ssean72
Silly question but have you looked at the harmonic balancer for issues
yes i’ve replaced it with oem part about a year ago when it was bad.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2018 | 02:37 PM
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updated: I've replaced coil pack and coil wires and spark plugs and fuel injectors but no changes at all..
I guess it's aftermarket engine mount gone bad again??...
 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:17 AM
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updated:: currently I've received the replacement of aftermarket upper engine mount (the one that i've been using) and it fixed some vibrations and good thing is shake is gone when i drive around 25-30mph but it still vibrates at idle when car is warmed up and ac is on.. i think noticeably about 30% vibration is gone. one thing that i'm really curious is when you guys turn ac on at idle, rpm should stay around 900 right? but my car stays 900 rpm for a few seconds and drops down to 700 and vibration occur...i don't know what to do next..I've been chasing this problem over a year but couldn't figure it out...any ideas??
 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:32 AM
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This is a good one. Maybe an idle solenoid issue? Not all problems throw codes. Good luck.
 

Last edited by Tgriffithjr; Dec 8, 2018 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Misspelling
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:37 AM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr
This is a good one. Maybe an idle solenoid issue? Not all problems throw codes. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply.
is this the one you are talking about???

 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:58 AM
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No. Take a look at this thread it might help. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...solenoids.html
 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 12:04 PM
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr
No. Take a look at this thread it might help. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...solenoids.html
I can't find the part for R53..
 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 12:24 PM
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Sorry it started in 2007. Check this thread. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rol-valve.html
 
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