r53 shakes at idle
#1
r53 shakes at idle
i got 03 mini cooper s with 91k miles and I really have bad vibrations at idle when car is warmed up.
I know a lot of people will say it's engine mount but i've replaced them all but nothing is changed. I replaced them since engine shakes really bad.
so I am chasing with other stuff and found air blows out when oil cap is off. I've watched the video on youtube and I replaced the pcv valve but it's still same. the reason why i replaced was i just guessed there is something wrong with air flow in engine.
Now i'm wondering if pcv valve hose or intake hose (link below) are bad, does that make happen? I am not a mechanic person but i'm planning to replace them if it's easy to replace.
Please let me know your opinion. I've got K&N typhoon intake.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Mini-Co...e/231572985514
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Hose...S/323032598026
I know a lot of people will say it's engine mount but i've replaced them all but nothing is changed. I replaced them since engine shakes really bad.
so I am chasing with other stuff and found air blows out when oil cap is off. I've watched the video on youtube and I replaced the pcv valve but it's still same. the reason why i replaced was i just guessed there is something wrong with air flow in engine.
Now i'm wondering if pcv valve hose or intake hose (link below) are bad, does that make happen? I am not a mechanic person but i'm planning to replace them if it's easy to replace.
Please let me know your opinion. I've got K&N typhoon intake.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Mini-Co...e/231572985514
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Hose...S/323032598026
#2
#3
For your engine shake at idle, my first thoughts are as follows:
Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......
Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....
Bryan
Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......
Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....
Bryan
#4
For your engine shake at idle, my first thoughts are as follows:
Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......
Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....
Bryan
Bad injector, bad plug, bad plug wire, faulty ignition coil......
Any engine codes? A miss fire or a dead cylinder should show up on a scanner pinpointing which cylinder is not pulling it's full weight.....
Bryan
do you think this will fit to my car?
Thanks
#6
I've purchased this before and replaced them year and half ago and ran only 11k.
I don't exactly remember that it happened before I installed them..
#7
Pull your spark plug and take a picture of them, that can give you an indication if it is lean or running rich
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings
When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings
When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
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#8
Pull your spark plug and take a picture of them, that can give you an indication if it is lean or running rich
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings
When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings
When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
Please let me know if you find something wrong. Thanks
#10
#13
Pull your spark plug and take a picture of them, that can give you an indication if it is lean or running rich
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings
When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
Do you have an OBD2 scan tool? Get a bluetooth/wifi elm327 one so you can output data to a smartphone, I would look at long and short fuel trim readings
When you say you replaced the motor mounts, did you also check the transmission mount?
#15
You note issue is bad idle and then only when warm. Otherwise I assume car drives well and motor pulls OK.
If the mounts are good, then I would look at the vacuum hoses. There could be a crack that is hard to see. Or one that has come undone. Most of the other things would affect the car at higher rpm or under acceleration.
Did the rough idle happen at a particular time, like right after working on the car? If so, recheck everything you did along with all of the things nearby.
The only other difference between cold and warm is the O2 sensors (closed loop vs. open loop). Car runs a little rich in open loop, but the O2 sensors come on line pretty quickly, way before the car is close to fully warmed up.
Regards,
Jerry
If the mounts are good, then I would look at the vacuum hoses. There could be a crack that is hard to see. Or one that has come undone. Most of the other things would affect the car at higher rpm or under acceleration.
Did the rough idle happen at a particular time, like right after working on the car? If so, recheck everything you did along with all of the things nearby.
The only other difference between cold and warm is the O2 sensors (closed loop vs. open loop). Car runs a little rich in open loop, but the O2 sensors come on line pretty quickly, way before the car is close to fully warmed up.
Regards,
Jerry
#17
You note issue is bad idle and then only when warm. Otherwise I assume car drives well and motor pulls OK.
If the mounts are good, then I would look at the vacuum hoses. There could be a crack that is hard to see. Or one that has come undone. Most of the other things would affect the car at higher rpm or under acceleration.
Did the rough idle happen at a particular time, like right after working on the car? If so, recheck everything you did along with all of the things nearby.
The only other difference between cold and warm is the O2 sensors (closed loop vs. open loop). Car runs a little rich in open loop, but the O2 sensors come on line pretty quickly, way before the car is close to fully warmed up.
Regards,
Jerry
If the mounts are good, then I would look at the vacuum hoses. There could be a crack that is hard to see. Or one that has come undone. Most of the other things would affect the car at higher rpm or under acceleration.
Did the rough idle happen at a particular time, like right after working on the car? If so, recheck everything you did along with all of the things nearby.
The only other difference between cold and warm is the O2 sensors (closed loop vs. open loop). Car runs a little rich in open loop, but the O2 sensors come on line pretty quickly, way before the car is close to fully warmed up.
Regards,
Jerry
#18
#19
#20
updated:: currently I've received the replacement of aftermarket upper engine mount (the one that i've been using) and it fixed some vibrations and good thing is shake is gone when i drive around 25-30mph but it still vibrates at idle when car is warmed up and ac is on.. i think noticeably about 30% vibration is gone. one thing that i'm really curious is when you guys turn ac on at idle, rpm should stay around 900 right? but my car stays 900 rpm for a few seconds and drops down to 700 and vibration occur...i don't know what to do next..I've been chasing this problem over a year but couldn't figure it out...any ideas??
#22
#24
No. Take a look at this thread it might help. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...solenoids.html
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