Recently had a coolant leak caused by a broken tee fitting in the coolant line and now I'm getting three P0597 codes on my 2011 Mini Cooper S. The codes are repeated three times in my obd2 app.

P0597 Status: Stored
P0597 Status: Pending
P0597 Status: Permanent

Sometimes when I turn the car on, but not the engine, it only gives me the permanent code, but if I start it up right away it gives all three statuses. Is the only option to replace the thermostat?
Also, I've been price checking and I've usually bought parts from Rock Auto for my vehicles (pleased so far) and they have a t-stat for half the price that ECS does. I'll probably buy the t-stat there, but wanted to ping the crowd to see if anyone has used rock auto parts for their mini, especially since I'm new to the mini scene. I don't want to spend more than I have to, but I don't want to end up with an objectively inferior part.

 

Just watch those general part store they mix up years and models all the time with MINI. We have seen them mix up clutch kits and years they fit on the valeo kits.

Check this first, then get the thermostat: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...0597-code.html

Thermostat housing Genuine MINI 11538674895 For the 2011 MCS its the ~895 version and if its the first times changed you will need part # 12518611289 linked in the link below
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2011-...ng/Thermostat/

 

So do you think it could be air in the line that is causing the code?

 

You can get air when its only bled once, you can rebleed, thats what I did like 3 times (rebled). Once air touches that sensor for a few seconds it sends a signal. Do that first, then check the sensor connection,. then replace if all else fails.

 

Okay.... That's probably the problem then. I had to add about 3/4 gallon after I had the coolant leak. Would you recommend flushing the system and starting all the way over? Or just bleed with what's in there?

 

Nope, fill as much as you can to that top level in the expansion tank and bleed.
DIY

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/243521-refill-coolant-and-bleed-system-question.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/294869-help-with-bleeding-coolant.html

 

I had my obd2 app monitoring the coolant temperature while I took it out for a drive the other day. It would get up to 221 F and then it would cool down 5-10 degrees and then start rising again to 221. It did that pretty consistently and never went over 221. I read somewhere that the coolant temp wasn't supposed to fluctuate at all, but the way it was acting seemed programmed, so I'm not sure. Is that normal?

Also, I've bled the line a couple of times and I'm still getting the engine codes. Sometimes I just get the "permanent" code and sometimes I get all three (stored, pending, permanent). Sometimes I get a check engine light on the dash and sometimes I don't.
I also read where someone said they blew into the reservoir to push coolant further into the lines and I tried that and heard the bleeder valve push out coolant, but now I'm wondering if that was also pushing air into the lines.... might have shot myself in the foot?

 

Chasing po128 that had po597 tag along with it. As part of trying to get rid of po128 it was suggested thatI change this part

Bosch Original Equipment 0261230134 Pressure/Temperature Sensor

It didn't fix the po128 but the po597 went away

 

I'm still having trouble with this code. And I'm a bit confused about the bleeding process. I've opened the bleeder screw with the engine off and coolant comes out of it, but I thought I was supposed to tighten it back up before starting the engine but a friend told me to leave it open until it warms up. It seems that I've seen/heard a few different, conflicting procedures.
Am I supposed to leave the bleeder screw loose when I turn the engine on, or do I open the bleeder screw when the engine is already warm, or do I only open it when the engine is off & cold?

 

I bleed mine when it was warm as to you need the pressure behind it.
Are you earasing the code of are you hoping it goes out after you repair?

 

I've been trying to erase the code but I can't erase the p0597 permanent code, just the pending and stored code, which come back eventually after erasing them.
So, you're saying you warm up the engine first, and then open the bleed screw? Is that correct? (Thanks for the advice)

 

Yes thats the way I did it

 

OMG. I broke the bleeder screw. Twisted the head right off. Wasn't even turning that hard.
Anyone know what it is connected to? Can I get just the screw, or do I need to buy the whole thing that is connected to?

Edit:
Looks like it's part of the thermostat. $9 part...

 

You mean one of these? To bad your not in Northern California.

 

I think I'm going to just get a new thermostat. Seems like thermostats are a common issue and I don't think it's ever been replaced.
ECSTuning.... that part that you spec'd. Does that include all the hardware I need to complete the job? I was looking at the stuff on Rock Auto and one of the parts says it needs an adapter, but it doesn't go into detail about what that adapter might be.

 

Yep, watch those other parts sites like rockauto and Amazon, they don't work on MINIs or know MINI too well, so when the fitment comes around they have it wrong most of the time. They get confused on the generations of MINIs. Post #2 above and explains it for the first time replacement parts needed. Let me know after you read it if it makes sense. Here to help.

 

Yes. Your earlier post made sense after I reread it. So, just the two part numbers for the replacement? Rock Auto didn't even have an option for the wiring harness. I don't like the idea of spending more money for the part, but it seems like it might be worth it and necessary. Especially since I really want to get back to driving it! That's the difference between my Mini and my old Ranger. If my Ranger was down for a couple weeks, I could just ride my bike to work and wait for parts to get in and I would be just fine. But with my Mini, I really want to drive it!