Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

2008 Mini Cooper S Rough Idle (110,000 miles)

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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
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2008 Mini Cooper S Rough Idle (110,000 miles)

Where to begin? I got a new head gasket in January. 6 weeks later my car started running rough at idle. Under load the car would be fine. When I come to a stop the car would stall. The car would not turn on unless I gave it gas. The codes were:

P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected; P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected; P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected; P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected; P0012 - A Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1; P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected; P0597 - Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open

I took it to a local mechanic and he said the spark plugs were black and dirty. They were only 3 years old. He also said I needed to get a new thermostat. I okayed the job for $800.

Picked up the car and the engine still ran rough. Car still stalled.

I took it to BMW mechanic and he said it was mostly likely the timing chain. I didn't want to spend $1500 on a vehicle that was only worth 5k. So I bought the parts and changed the timing chain with a friend (BMW enthusiast/amateur mechanic).

Still rough idle and stall. We changed the fuel cap and air filter just for the heck of it. We also got a new crank case hose to make sure. Still rough.

After driving it I get new codes. P0444 - EVAP System Purge Control Valve A Circuit Open; P0597 - Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open.

At this point I'm determined to fix this car. I take it to a Mini dealer (Mini of Mainline in PA). They said I had a bad air intake hose and thermostat housing. Didn't I just fix the latter? So I get a new air intake hose. I bring my car back to the previous mechanic and ask him to redo the thermostat. He is pissed but still does the work. Still the car is running rough and stalls. He even does a vacuum leak test and finds no leak.

I pick up the car and bring it back to Mini. I ask them not to just pull codes. A few hours later they said it was bad spark plugs and coils. No way! I request the master mechanic to take a look. He charges $300. Still I am determined.

He runs a compression test. All cylinders are fine. He also runs a leak down test check. All cylinders are fine. He also smoke checks the intake. No leaks. According to paperwork, "We removed the valve cover and checked timing and we revealed abnormal movement between the intake cam and vanos unit while rotating the engine. Although the timing eventually was correct the movement is a concern."

He recommends getting a new vanos gear and solenoid. This is close to 2k in parts and labor. I ask if the issue is not fixed will I be responsible to pay. They said yes.

At this point I am skeptical. I don't think it is a timing issue. I am not paying close to $700 for the vanos gear. It feels more like an oxygen / fuel issue. I pick up the car and found the hood latch was broken. I have to come back three days later. They even tried to get me to pay for the part!

Anyway, after I pick up my old car with a new hood(!) I clean out the solenoid myself. Lots of grime was on it. Still rough idle and stall.

New codes: P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected; P013E - O2 Sensor Delayed Response - Rich to Lean Bank 1 Sensor 2

After going through lots of threads on this site I have a few questions:

1) Bad exhaust valves seem to be an issue with the r56s. See here. Can my exhaust valve be bad if the compression tests and cylinder leak down tests show no defect?
2) Can it be carbon build up? This seems too easy. The mini mechanic mentioned nothing about this.
3) Can it simply be a bad O2 sensor?
4) Any local mechanics/entusiats you can recommend? I live in Montgomery County PA (Eastern PA). Willing to pay.
5) Any advice would be appreciated. I put so much time and money into this car the past 5 months. I want to see it through.

Thanks in advance Mini community.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 05:30 AM
  #2  
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Notcompensating
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I suggest you buy a cheap obd2 bluetooth reader on eBay and download torque pro. I bet your timing is still off. I just had this issue. Triple check the timing and not just with the straws in the cylinder but with the lock tool in the flywheel. Did you torque everything properly including the second stage of rotation? Did you use the preset tensioner tool?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 12:49 PM
  #3  
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Steve Sung
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From: PA
Yes locktool on the flywheel and torqued to specs. Yes on the pretensioner tool as well. Measured three times before placing.

Can i I ask what was your timing issue?

QUOTE=Notcompensating;4408054]
I suggest you buy a cheap obd2 bluetooth reader on eBay and download torque pro. I bet your timing is still off. I just had this issue. Triple check the timing and not just with the straws in the cylinder but with the lock tool in the flywheel. Did you torque everything properly including the second stage of rotation? Did you use the preset tensioner tool?
[/QUOTE]
 
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 04:55 PM
  #4  
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Notcompensating
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Originally Posted by Steve Sung
Yes locktool on the flywheel and torqued to specs. Yes on the pretensioner tool as well. Measured three times before placing.

Can i I ask what was your timing issue?

QUOTE=Notcompensating;4408054]
I suggest you buy a cheap obd2 bluetooth reader on eBay and download torque pro. I bet your timing is still off. I just had this issue. Triple check the timing and not just with the straws in the cylinder but with the lock tool in the flywheel. Did you torque everything properly including the second stage of rotation? Did you use the preset tensioner tool?

[/QUOTE]
same codes as you, it was pulling and adding timing,causing surges, when I checked it with the scan tool. So I checked the timing for the third time and it was off. Fixed it and it started rough but smoothed out after driving about 5 miles.

I suggest reading what the motors doing with that torque app

also it's pretty easy to pull the intake manifold off and look at the valves with a mirror if you think it may be carbon buildup
 
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 03:59 PM
  #5  
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Steve Sung
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Do you know why you had to drive 5 miles before it smoothed out? I had someone check the timing again and surely it was off.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 09:05 PM
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Beeulee
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Monitor the fuel pressure to see that you have the low pressure correct before start and then the high pressure is above 700 and better up to 1000psi or so. I've had two bad hpfp's show me sooty plugs and misfire codes.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 02:00 PM
  #7  
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Steve Sung
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Like you I checked the timing and it was off again.

Again like you, it was rough when I started it but smoothed out after 5-10 minutes.

Car needed new coils. but everything works fine with the engine.

But now I need a new clutch ;(
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 04:11 PM
  #8  
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Notcompensating
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Originally Posted by Steve Sung
Like you I checked the timing and it was off again.

Again like you, it was rough when I started it but smoothed out after 5-10 minutes.

Car needed new coils. but everything works fine with the engine.

But now I need a new clutch ;(
im easing the vanos can adjust enough to smooth it out but not good for performances

I'm currently having issues at cold start and mild hesitation after warmed up. I need to check timing again.

Effing idiot engineers to not pin these cranks or gears
 
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 07:02 PM
  #9  
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Steve Sung
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consider buying new bolts. the bolts for the timing chain are one time use. once you tighten and loosen, you need new ones.
 
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