I recently was removing the front passenger side strut on my 2006 MCS and the pinch bolt broke. I drilled out the bolt and bought a stock used steering knuckle as a replacement. My question is whether the hole for the pinch bolt is threaded all the way through or on just one side. I’m just trying to be sure the used unit I bought isn’t damaged from being drilled out (if it was) as well before installing it.

Can anyone help?

Thank you!

I’m experiencing the same issue. Driver’s side pinch bolt was snapped off before we got the 06 Mini r50. I spent a whole day drilling out the rear side of the drivers side strut. I’ve soaked both sides (Driver & passenger) with PB Blaster. The bolt is intact on the passenger side, even after two days of soaking with PB Blaster, passenger won’t budge with 1/2’ impact or breaker bar. Unfortunately, I only have a butane torch for heat, not hot enough. Car has a bunch of miles on it (190k). I purchased a “chassis kit” for it, ball joints, tie rods, control arms an bushings and struts. I’m finishing my coffee and about ready to head out and start drilling again, ugh. At least it’s good to know, the back side that is threaded, with any luck I can knock the front piece of the bolt out, with a hammer and punch. What a crap design, a known issue on most minis. These werent the original struts. My plan is to put a hardened grade 8 bolt and nut on the drivers side “if” I get it all out. With ani-sieze on it with a thick grease over it to keep it from rusting. Just did the complete chassis kit on my sons 1997 BMW 318ti. It’s night and day different, like brand new. I’m hoping the same for the Mini.

So I spent another day drilling, found two broken easy-outs in the end the bolt head was. What a biotch. I put a 7/16 grade 8 flange bolt with lock nut on it with anti-seize on reassembly. This thing should ride great when it’s back together. At the end of the day today, I started on the passenger side. I’ve been squirting the passenger side down 3 times a day for the last three days with PB Blaster, so I had to see what tomorrow was gonna be. I heated the surrounding area around the bolt with a torch, used a 6 point impact socket with breaker bar and 5’ pipe. Snapped the bolt. Time and money are a issue at the moment, so I’ll be drilling again tomorrow after breakfast. Should go much faster without the easy-out pieces that kept breaking my drill bits. I know what Im up against now.

Well it’s been a couple days since I posted last. First thing I did this time was purchase some titanium drill bits. Unbelievable difference that made but was still a struggle. Noticed the passenger side axle was junk so I picked up a new one. I went on line to see what it was gonna take to install the chassis kit, which includes both control arms with bushings, four ball joints, tie rods and swaybar links. The rear bushing that the control arms fit into are gonna be a real PITA. You have to drop the subframe in order to get to the top of the bolts. WTF... the engineers should be shot for this design. They say it’s about $600 to have professionally installed At this point, not sure what I’m gonna do. Looks like some of the guys cut the old bushing out and press the new one in, using a home made press in the OEM bracket. The one video I saw that dropped the subframe, then replaced complete bush with bracket, it didn’t have a engine in it. I don’t have a subframe tool (a jig setup above the engine that holds everything up). Not sure what I’m going to do. I need more coffee... maybe a bourbon

I decided while I had everything out, axles, control arms, etc, etc. I would lower the front sub frame bolts, (not take them out completely) and remove the 6 rear bolts and lower it with my bike jack, then remove the bushings complete. Ordered the drivers side axle while I was at it. It was junk as well. I see the shop I use to change the oil, just leaves the mess. I’m gonna have to say something about that. Everything was just covered with oil. Pissed me off. This rusty little buggy of bolts has been getting the better of me for about four days now. I think my luck will change tomorrow. Both rear bushing centers rubber fell out with the control arms. The videos on YouTube sure have helped. One guy had his engine out, which made it much easier to see what was what, however a pain in the butt to work on, while engine is in. I thought about ordering just the bushings to press in, but I already had the chassis kit which included the bushings in their housings. Should go pretty smooth I hope, all the rusty parts are gone. I’m pretty slow at this, I take my time. I had a total hip replacement 6 mos ago and a disc removed from my back 6 weeks before the hip. The car had a bad blend door actuator that I needed to change, I did that also. That wasn’t as bad as i thought it was gonna be. After taking the glove box out, it was behind a metal brace that goes completely across the dash. I saw that and thought “holy crap”. But looking closer at it, the actuator was mounted with three screws to another piece of plastic, which just clips into place. I think it took longer to get my 280lb broken body upside down in the passenger seat, with my shoulders in the foot well. Even though I ***** a lot, I really do enjoy the challenge. After this Mini, will be my daughters timing chain tensioner in her 08 Scion Tc, then my sons 318ti again. Well, we’ll see what tomorrow brings. I feel optimistic.