I just bought a 2007 Mini Cooper (standard and base model) and it had some issues that I was not aware of at purchase. First thing that happened was the check engine light was on, then I noticed it ran a little rough, rumbled when it idled, and had a clicking noise in the engine area. So we checked the codes and it was cylinder 2 misfire, cylinder 4 miss, random/multiple cylinder miss, as well as a O2 sensor error. We cleared them and ran it and tried to find the true problem. Cylinder 2 never went away but the others did. We changed the coil pack on 2 and replaced all the spark plugs. Didn't fully fix it. Then we swapped the fuel injectors and cylinder 2 miss went away for a little bit and then O2 sensor came back and we changed both sensors (because of a screw up) and then the cylinder 2 miss came back as well as a camshaft over-retarded code. At this point my dad, who has been helping me, said the ECU (DME?) could be bad since the codes were happening so randomly and it would run PERFECTLY and then like a switch was flipped it would start running horribly. So, I took it to a mechanic friend (usually works on hondas and acuras) he said to look into changing the Valve Timing Solenoids or the ECU. I'm looking into maybe buying parts from a broken mini, but I'm not 100% certain. I'm really just looking for opinions from people who have more experience with Minis and maybe recommendations on good after market replacements? Not really looking to spend thousands of dollars on this car, seeing as I am a college student with limited funds and bought the car for pretty cheap.

 

welcome aboard my friend.

here is a list of things to check and look for before you start buying parts.

1- try to get some input from the previous owner as to what was done on the car and how did it end up like this.
2- knowing that you have new plugs, swapped coils and injectors, you need to do a compression test
3- depending on compression results, you can proceed accordingly.

 

The previous "owner" is a mechanic and bought it from a client, and says that it was all well when he had it. He also says he only changed cosmetic things, nothing mechanical. We did a compression test and they were fine.

 

do you remember the compression numbers?

did you remove the valve cover to inspect guides, chain, cams, lifters...etc?

where are you located by the way?

 

I think 120 or 130? I'm not at all sure on that though... I don't think so, I don't ever remember seeing the chain while working on it and I'm pretty sure that would be hard to miss. My dad might have, but I don't think he did. I'm in southern Louisiana.

 

the number are usually higher but if consistent across the board, then they're ok, i guess. on my S model I get close to 180. others reach 200. other others, lol, 150.

I suggest going back to the valve cover and taking another look. notate the timing and condition of internal parts.

I learned that coil packs can intermittently misfire. Did you swap those around to see if the codes move it ?

also, you can do visual inspection of wires to see any rodents' bites or cuts.

finally, bad gas can cause a issues too.

 

Okay, I'm gonna try and remove the valve cover and check everything asap.

We bought a new coil pack and put it on 2 and then when we were still getting misfires for 2 we swapped the coil packs on 2 and 3 and the pack that was originally on 3 is if I'm not mistaken on 2 right now.

What would I really need to check for when I take the cover off? Like parts wise lol...

 

you would want to look at the timing chain, guide rails, cams, and lifters. remove the front right wheel and get access to the crankshaft bolt...use an 18mm socket with a long extension to rotate the engine CLOCKWISE slowly. remove the spark plugs to to make rotation easier. finally, while you have the spark plugs out, notice their condition (gap, burned, oiled, wet)..post pix too

 

So I took the valve cover off and found what made, most likely, made the clicking noise and hopefully is the stem of all problems. I’m not really sure how what everything is called so bare with me lol. The valve rocker spring which holds up those things (picture of the “thing” in a cloth) was kind of broken and had been rubbing up agains that bar. The “thing” was loose WITHIN the engine.... we all assume that was the clicking and my dad and brother thing that could be (we aren’t too sure and are kind of doubtful) the reason Cylinder 2 is misfiring.
Here are some pictures: (Attached)

 

Pix aren't attached!

 

I edited the post and attached the pictures to the post! Sorry!

 

Oh man...I had a suspicion...this is some work needed. If the camshaft isnt damaged, you might get away with just reassembling the flown parts. Otherwise, you need another intake camshaft, intermediate lever, and maybe intermediate shaft.