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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Well, trying to solve a cylinder 1 misfire along with a random misfire code, I thought I would try replacing the ignition coil. Discovered that the one purchased at autozone doesn’t have the correct connector for the plug, so I put the old one back on. Now, my mini will not start. Like it’s not getting spark... what did I do wrong here? Everything is hooked up as it was. Are the bolts holding it in place have anything to do with how it runs?
If it ran, albeit crappy, before you removed the coil and now it does not then it would be logical to me that the coil is bad. This with the caveat that nothing else was was damaged when you did the work.
when you say it will not start, does the mean it cranks? or there is no life in it?
check the ground wire at the valve cover, and also the main ground strap at the motor mount. spray quick start to see if fires up or not.
i dont see see how I would have damaged anything else. I mean it’s a straight forward remove 4 bolts holding it down, unplug everything, place new coil, bolt down and plug everything back in.
Only thing I was having was random multiple misfires and a cylinder 1 misfire detected along with my DSC light coming on. Upon reading a couple threads on here I came to the conclusion that it was either the coil or the fuel injector for cylinder 1. I went with the cheaper fix first. Or so I thought.
Some times it isnt about damaging anything. with age and weather conditions, some wires might be brittle and a disturbance can cause it to misbehave... What we are suggesting is you go an extra mile to check these things to get back to square 0.
Also, it could be as simple as a dying battery too even though it seemed healthy two days ago!
take a breath and focus, minis can be tricky and you have to be patient.
Discovered that the one purchased at autozone doesn’t have the correct connector for the plug...
Do not consider aftermarket cheap ignition coils from Autozone. There are certain components, such as this one, that should be replaced with OE only, and stay away from the red aftermarket coils (MSD, Screamin' Demon) as well; they're no better than OE, and the bolts don't match up and can pierce your valve cover, creating a massive oil leak.
Originally Posted by Whine not Walnuts
If it ran, albeit crappy, before you removed the coil and now it does not then it would be logical to me that the coil is bad.
Agreed, you may have a bad coil, or even wires. Check the wires for breaks. Also check the posts on the coil, as they can become corroded, leading to bad spark. Terminal #3 seems to be the one that exhibits this behavior most often. If the terminals are corroded, try sanding them clean, reconnect, then try starting again.
If that doesn't do the trick, then go shopping for a new OE coil, p/n 12137510738. Compare online vendors for best price.
I understand. Battery is brand new so I know it’s good. I will definitely take a multimeter to the plug and check voltage when I turn the car over to see if it’s getting at least to the coil. Then go from there. I will double check the fuses as well.
Here are two pictures. Plug looks good and pins in the coil look good as well. So either the coil went completely dead when I removed the plug from it, or a wire came loose somewhere.
Looks like your coolant reservoir has spewed coolant from the cap, and it also appears you do not have the heat shield in place over the exhaust headers. The heat from the exhaust is not helping components (coolant reservoir & ignition coil) that sit directly above.
Might want to replace the cap, as they can and do fail, which leads to guaranteed overheating...
Looks like your coolant reservoir has spewed coolant from the cap, and it also appears you do not have the heat shield in place over the exhaust headers. The heat from the exhaust is not helping components (coolant reservoir & ignition coil) that sit directly above.
Might want to replace the cap, as they can and do fail, which leads to guaranteed overheating...
Just sayin'
overflow is new as is cap. I spilt a little when filling it to min/max. I have a small leak at the thermostat that’s getting fixed as soon as the part arrives. So that’s on me.
as for the heat shield, I bought the car that way. I always thought it looked off. I’ll have to order one or something
...as for the heat shield, I bought the car that way. I always thought it looked off. I’ll have to order one or something
Looks like Way Motor Works has a used one for $20 (p/n 51487511704) HERE.
Could check eBay as well. You'll also need the two bolts to connect it to the head.
There are two coil connnector pin options for that style coil.
One is round (older Chrysler style)
The other is flat (like your pic)
If you were given a round pin style coil then the pins would push/bend the terminals in your connector and it may be why you're not getting spark.
Take something small and attempt to carefully bend them back together.
It wouldn’t even fit enough to be able to jam those pins in the plug.
All is is back to working. Partially my mistake and partially the ignition coil going bad. I had 1 plug wire not seated all the way and cylinder 1 terminal was very weak. When I unplugged the coil, I guess it killed it completely.
Anywho, ordered the screamin’ Demon coil pack and the car is running again. I noticed it runs a lot better now too!
