Hi All,
I bought my first Mini Cooper a little over a month ago. No modifications.
r50
5-Speed
80k miles.
It needed brakes when I bought which is a reasonable thing and easy, enough, to do.
However, since I bought it I have had to replace the PS pump and the alternator + serpentine belt.
I'm afraid of what else is going to fail because I've worked on the car more than I've driven it.
Could anyone give me any insight on what I could potentially see fail next?
The clutch seems good, and so does the timing chain - no rattling with a cold start.
If I wanted to sell it what do you think is a fair price? It's a little rusty on the backside - clean otherwise.

Thank you for your time.

 

I have a 2004 R50 and the alternator is just fine, odd that yours died. My PS pump was replaced under a factory recall but the 2006's were not part of that. Struts should be close to worn at that mileage... probably. You have the Getrag 5-speed, so that should be good for the duration of the car. I replaced my clutch and Midlands/Rover transmission at 122K only because it was grinding, slipping and worn out from AutoX and track days from lots of clutch dumping... er... aggressive gear changes. Timing chain should be good for a while. I have 145K or there about and it seems to be fine.

 

To OP. You bought a 12+ year old car with 80k what is your expectation? If you want a least troublesome car you should looked at a Honda or Toyota beige car. From the photo the car is in exceptional condition for a 80k miles transport.

 

Thank you for the contribution, sir. Much appreciated.

 

I keep telling myself I'm never buying a German car ever again every time this thing breaks on me...but every time I get it fixed I enjoy driving it so much that I quickly forget. Since I purchased my 03 S with about 85k miles I've had to replace the water pump, front lower control arms, brake lines (car was from Wisconsin), belt tensioner, and thermostat. If you take it to a mechanic every time its 500+ so I try to work on it myself as much as possible.

I bought the car used 4 years ago for 6700 and now I'd be lucky if I can get 3500 for it because the value of these cars tanked right after I bought it. I'll continue driving it and hoping the clutch doesnt go out next. Its definitely fun but it needs works. Just last week it started not turning on on the 1st try...and I have to add oil to it every 2 weeks.

I did install the 15% reduction pulley, lightweight pulley, jcw airbox, colder plugs, and did the one ball mod on the exhaust...not that these things contributed to it breaking. Still love it though :D

 

You should try owning a real British car with Lucas electricals. I would almost agree Hyundai is more reliable than anything BMW makes, but would I want to drive one?

 

In today's world of car forums it is pretty easy to research a vehicle before you purchase. A PPI can also reveal some issues.

But, the best is what Nick at Detroit Tuned said when I asked him how they did their PPIs. He said: “Ask for any and all proof of maintenance or work done, and ask all the questions you can. Unfortunately there is a fair amount of situations that you can't look at during a PPI, such as; the timing cassette, clutch, engine internals, oil consumption, etc. So there is no way of knowing if you're buying into a problem. If you can't prove the car has been maintained you cannot gain the buyers trust. Proof of work is always going to make the sale.

On this R50, it looks in very nice shape but remember that the car is pushing 12 years old. If there is no proof of recent fluid changes, I would change everything that is either water or oil based, The water pump and belts as well. The big thing on the R50 are those people that do not use premium gas, which is called for, and in turn the valve guides sometimes wear out quicker.

 

+1 what Walnuts said. Change all those fluids then get in the habit of checking them every Saturday morning. Change them out regularly sooner that sane people recommend. Get a pair of strut tower defenders. Check ALL the bushings including the front strut ones and replace any that even look questionable. Throw in a can of BG 44K with a re-fuel about every 6 months - keeps the injectors bright a shiny. Also, replace the plastic expansion tank with a stainless one (ebay). That plastic one will split at the seam pretty soon. Rotate the tires every 5K, you've got built in camber that will wear them unevenly. Check around with other MINI people in your area for the very best and most reliable independent BMW/MINI shop and make him your best friend.
Most importantly, enjoy the heck out of driving one of the most fun cars to ever hit the road.

 

The Gen 1 R50 required premium too? Why?

 

I love this justification for the garbage design and component quality that has plagued two generations of the brand.



I don't even have to do this with my unrestored 53 year old car.

 

Thanks for the help, everyone. I appreciate the wisdom.

I have learned a lot from the experience and really do enjoy driving the car.

I'll be sure to heed the collective advice.

Thank you again and I appreciate the patience with my initial frustration - totally self-induced.

 

Yup, there are two kinds of active, pro and re, I prefer the pro.

 

I had an 05/R50. I had problems with the thermostat housing and timing chain tensioners.

 

I assume you are referring to the electric-hydraulic power steering. It is very easy to be critical of a design without regard to the alternative. Mini designers chose it to overcome the packaging problem and I am very glad they did, rather than making the front end larger. BMW don't make the pump. OEM vendors do. They don't last forever and one in our Gen 1 Mini's is not the only one that has problem.