Normal operating temp? - North American Motoring

Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Normal operating temp?

  #1  
Old 06-06-2018, 02:41 PM
Racingguy04
Racingguy04 is offline
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 529
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Normal operating temp?

I recently got an OBDII dongle and have been monitoring my coolant temp, voltage, ect. I've noticed that my coolant temp is normally between 200 and 208 but usually between 203-205. This seems a little warm to me, does anybody know what temp it should be? The car runs just fine, and I am in Texas at the moment, with a forecasted high of 104 today.

I just flushed and replaced my coolant a month ago, I went with an 80:20 mix of distilled water and coolant with a bottle of redline water wetter in there too. I wasn't having any cooling problems, but I figured it might cool better with the mostly water mix (I'll make sure to switch back to 50:50 before winter). The car has 82,000 miles, and as far as I know the original thermostat. The radiator looks OEM, though I am running a 17% pulley on the super charger (not sure if that affects cooling since it drives the water pump) and I have an aluminum coolant tank since the plastic one split at the seam, but other than that, I'm pretty sure the coolant system is stock.

The car runs fine, seems to cool fine, and isn't even running the fan after I stop and turn it off, but I'm just not sure if there's anything I need to do to make it cool better, or if it's fine the way it is.
 

Last edited by Racingguy04; 06-06-2018 at 04:35 PM.
  #2  
Old 06-07-2018, 07:55 AM
cavaliers60
cavaliers60 is offline
2nd Gear
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Indiana
Posts: 114
Thanks: 0
Thanked 15 Times in 13 Posts
I believe that is normal. I had a previous vehicle that had numbers on the coolant temp gauge, and it was always just under the 210 mark when it’s warmed up.
 
  #3  
Old 06-07-2018, 01:51 PM
Eric_Rowland's Avatar
Eric_Rowland
Eric_Rowland is offline
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 13,170
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
My steady state is 193 per ScanGaugeII, but I live in a cool climate on the coast.
 
  #4  
Old 06-07-2018, 02:51 PM
sarom058's Avatar
sarom058
sarom058 is offline
5th Gear
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 710
Thanked 17 Times in 17 Posts
My R53 is happiest around 88*F through the OBC in the speedo. That being said, here in hot AZ, it's not uncommon to see numbers in the 88-100*C range (190-212*F).

I believe low speed fan kicks on at 212F, and high speed kicks on in the mid-220's.
 
  #5  
Old 06-07-2018, 04:38 PM
Whine not Walnuts
Whine not Walnuts is offline
OVERDRIVE
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fuquay Varina, NC
Posts: 5,527
Thanked 600 Times in 539 Posts
I wrote this up a while back:

OK, the Mini Cooper Coolant systems functions as follows; low speed fan switches on at 221 and the high speed switches on at 234. When the AC is on, the low speed switches on when the system pressure is at 116 PSI with the high speed switching on when the system pressure reaches 261 PSI. The high speed fan will run without the AC being on if the set point of 234 is reached. On the Gen1 car, you can bring up the coolant temperature inside the car (will read in Centigrade) with the set points being 105 and 112. The cut off is 7 F below the cut in.
 
  #6  
Old 06-07-2018, 08:31 PM
OCR
OCR is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: SoCal
Posts: 256
Thanked 24 Times in 23 Posts
Racing guy -

WHY...the Water Wetter ?
That's mostly to be used on the track in place of coolant (which is an incorrect term) so you don't slime up the track surface (make it slippery) if you have a coolant system problem. Your 80/20 mix is a very good choice though.
"Coolant" does NOT transfer heat very well, plain ol water (or distilled) is the best at that task. The Antifreeze is good at holding corrosion at bey and is good for lubricating the water pump. And also for those folks in colder climates to keep the "freezing" problem down when the ambient temperature goes below zero.

Mike
 
The Following User Says Thank You to OCR For This Useful Post:
Shiner (06-08-2018)
  #7  
Old 06-08-2018, 12:37 AM
Eric_Rowland's Avatar
Eric_Rowland
Eric_Rowland is offline
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 13,170
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Whine not Walnuts View Post
On the Gen1 car, you can bring up the coolant temperature inside the car (will read in Centigrade) with the set points being 105 and 112.
Hadn't heard this before. Can't find it with search - any hints where I could find how?
 
  #8  
Old 06-08-2018, 05:27 AM
Whine not Walnuts
Whine not Walnuts is offline
OVERDRIVE
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Fuquay Varina, NC
Posts: 5,527
Thanked 600 Times in 539 Posts
Check out Item # 17 of the below thread. Lots of good stuff in the FAQ section,

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
 
  #9  
Old 06-08-2018, 08:28 AM
MINI33342
MINI33342 is offline
5th Gear
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 751
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Sounds like a sticky thermostat. It should open up around 195F. My new car reads right around 195F from the obdii.
 
  #10  
Old 06-08-2018, 09:29 AM
downshift1's Avatar
downshift1
downshift1 is offline
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Disneyland
Posts: 424
Thanked 51 Times in 40 Posts
ECU goes into closed loop at 185 F. and "Normal running temp" according to Mini is 200-215 F. If you're running an average below 185 F. you're losing power and mpg.

Coolant does not lubricate water pumps (Common Myth). There is a seal between the bearing and the coolant to prevent it front contaminating the bearing. When a water pump starts "weeping" out the hole on the bearing chamber to show the inner seal failure.

Straight distilled water is the best for heat transfer in a cooling system.

Antifreeze (coolant) - is just what the name implies, it keeps water from freezing and most have a corrosion inhibitor in them.

Water Wetter and pretty much most of your "Performance Cooling system additives" - pretty much just glorified soap. (Don't believe me? Do some research) These can leave a coating between the metal of the block and the water actually slowing down heat transfer from the engine to the water (the reason they show lower temps in the advertising). If you run a cylinder head temp gauge you would actually see the metal temp increase compared to straight water. Some of these do have a corrosion inhibitor in them.

That being said, you do need some type of corrosion inhibitor for obvious reasons and if you live in a place that gets cold you need antifreeze to keep the system from freezing.

I run a 95/5 mix of Water / Coolant in my system and have no issues even in the hot desert running hard.
 
  #11  
Old 06-08-2018, 01:10 PM
Racingguy04
Racingguy04 is offline
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 529
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by OCR View Post
Racing guy -

WHY...the Water Wetter ?
That's mostly to be used on the track in place of coolant (which is an incorrect term) so you don't slime up the track surface (make it slippery) if you have a coolant system problem. Your 80/20 mix is a very good choice though.
"Coolant" does NOT transfer heat very well, plain ol water (or distilled) is the best at that task. The Antifreeze is good at holding corrosion at bey and is good for lubricating the water pump. And also for those folks in colder climates to keep the "freezing" problem down when the ambient temperature goes below zero.

Mike

Mike, mostly for the corrosion protection and a little in hopes that it might decrease coolant temps. I was a little nervous about putting mostly distilled water into a cast iron block even for just a few months. So I probably put more antifreeze/coolant in than it needed, but I didn't want to regret not putting enough in down the line.
 
  #12  
Old 06-08-2018, 01:15 PM
Racingguy04
Racingguy04 is offline
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 529
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by downshift1 View Post
Water Wetter and pretty much most of your "Performance Cooling system additives" - pretty much just glorified soap. (Don't believe me? Do some research) These can leave a coating between the metal of the block and the water actually slowing down heat transfer from the engine to the water (the reason they show lower temps in the advertising). If you run a cylinder head temp gauge you would actually see the metal temp increase compared to straight water. Some of these do have a corrosion inhibitor in them.



I run a 95/5 mix of Water / Coolant in my system and have no issues even in the hot desert running hard.



I did a fair amount of reading on water wetter, though I haven't done any research of my own (though this experiment is the beginning of my own research; I'm monitoring the coolant temps, and plan to switch back to 50:50 in a month or 2 and see if there's a difference) But what I read was that by functioning as a surfactant, it decreases cylinder head temps and hot spots. Though I don't have a head temp gauge. I have't heard about it leaving a film/residue in the cooling system though, that's interesting.
 
  #13  
Old 06-08-2018, 08:53 PM
downshift1's Avatar
downshift1
downshift1 is offline
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Disneyland
Posts: 424
Thanked 51 Times in 40 Posts
Yeah we went through it and a few others in testing and found just straight water with a higher pressure cap was the best for a full race vehicle.

You definitely need a corrosion inhibitor for a street car
 
  #14  
Old 06-08-2018, 11:07 PM
Eric_Rowland's Avatar
Eric_Rowland
Eric_Rowland is offline
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 13,170
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by Whine not Walnuts View Post
Check out Item # 17 of the below thread. Lots of good stuff in the FAQ section,

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
Thanks!
 
  #15  
Old 06-11-2018, 02:54 AM
drea-min
drea-min is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Makakilo,Hawaii
Posts: 290
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
Coolant temperature

Originally Posted by downshift1 View Post
ECU goes into closed loop at 185 F. and "Normal running temp" according to Mini is 200-215 F. If you're running an average below 185 F. you're losing power and mpg.

Coolant does not lubricate water pumps (Common Myth). There is a seal between the bearing and the coolant to prevent it front contaminating the bearing. When a water pump starts "weeping" out the hole on the bearing chamber to show the inner seal failure.

Straight distilled water is the best for heat transfer in a cooling system.

Antifreeze (coolant) - is just what the name implies, it keeps water from freezing and most have a corrosion inhibitor in them.

Water Wetter and pretty much most of your "Performance Cooling system additives" - pretty much just glorified soap. (Don't believe me? Do some research) These can leave a coating between the metal of the block and the water actually slowing down heat transfer from the engine to the water (the reason they show lower temps in the advertising). If you run a cylinder head temp gauge you would actually see the metal temp increase compared to straight water. Some of these do have a corrosion inhibitor in them.

That being said, you do need some type of corrosion inhibitor for obvious reasons and if you live in a place that gets cold you need antifreeze to keep the system from freezing.

I run a 95/5 mix of Water / Coolant in my system and have no issues even in the hot desert running hard.
g to Mini is 200-215 F. If you're running an average below 185 F. you're losing power and mpg.
I replaced my car thermostat to open at 185F and my car temperature run below 185F i dont feel my car loosing power at all.. Im willing to sacrifice a little lower gmp than overheating....
 
  #16  
Old 06-11-2018, 10:24 AM
downshift1's Avatar
downshift1
downshift1 is offline
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Disneyland
Posts: 424
Thanked 51 Times in 40 Posts
Originally Posted by drea-min View Post
I replaced my car thermostat to open at 185F and my car temperature run below 185F i dont feel my car loosing power at all.. Im willing to sacrifice a little lower gmp than overheating....
If you have to run that low of temp thermostat to prevent overheating then you are just masking a problem somewhere in your cooling system.

You may not "feel" any power loss but you are not making all the power you can because in open loop at that temp you do not see an optimum fuel mixture or as an aggressive ignition advance.
 
  #17  
Old 06-11-2018, 11:24 AM
pnwR53S's Avatar
pnwR53S
pnwR53S is offline
6th Gear - NAM Hall of Fame
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: soggy pnw
Posts: 2,813
Thanked 230 Times in 223 Posts
Some folks thinks that running a cooler temperature is better. No, not unless you are racing, tracking, or autoXing your Mini in hotter parts of the country. There is thermal efficiency to consider. Cooler is usually not better. The coolant system is pressurized for this very reason. The temperatures at different parts of the motor were designed by engineers and technologists. Coolant system is designed to reach higher temperature than pure water at boiling point at sea level. What govern the engine temperature primarily is the thermostat. The coolant sensor for the ECU plays the secondary but also a critical role in switching on the radiator cooling fan. But if you are driving flat out on a track, the chances are the thermostat is doing all the work regulating the motor temperature while the DME's fan control never do anything until you come into the pit.
 
  #18  
Old 06-12-2018, 02:00 AM
drea-min
drea-min is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Makakilo,Hawaii
Posts: 290
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
lower temperature

Originally Posted by downshift1 View Post
If you have to run that low of temp thermostat to prevent overheating then you are just masking a problem somewhere in your cooling system.

You may not "feel" any power loss but you are not making all the power you can because in open loop at that temp you do not see an optimum fuel mixture or as an aggressive ignition advance.
I had this set up for 10 years 02MCS and so far not an issue, i live where normal daily is around 84-90F. I am aware of the loss fuel economy but im willing to sacrifice... I am not worried about the gas prices....
 
  #19  
Old 06-12-2018, 08:55 AM
downshift1's Avatar
downshift1
downshift1 is offline
4th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Disneyland
Posts: 424
Thanked 51 Times in 40 Posts
Originally Posted by drea-min View Post
I had this set up for 10 years 02MCS and so far not an issue, i live where normal daily is around 84-90F. I am aware of the loss fuel economy but im willing to sacrifice... I am not worried about the gas prices....
You're missing probably around 5-10hp also.
 
  #20  
Old 06-17-2018, 09:51 PM
jjcsnlynn's Avatar
jjcsnlynn
jjcsnlynn is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Delaware
Posts: 154
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
ECU goes into closed loop at 185 F. and "Normal running temp" according to Mini is 200-215 F. If you're running an average below 185 F. you're losing power and mpg.
My car has a new thermostat and it runs right about 180 degrees and in closed loop. I monitor it via a scanguage. When I decelerate it goes to open loop but back to closed when I accelerate.
 
  #21  
Old 02-11-2019, 05:17 PM
Racingguy04
Racingguy04 is offline
4th Gear
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 529
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by jjcsnlynn View Post
My car has a new thermostat and it runs right about 180 degrees and in closed loop. I monitor it via a scanguage. When I decelerate it goes to open loop but back to closed when I accelerate.
How do you know it's in closed or open loop? I just replaced my thermostat yesterday and it's running noticeably cooler, 180-196 degrees F. It's also 33 degrees and raining outside...
 
  #22  
Old 02-11-2019, 06:58 PM
jjcsnlynn's Avatar
jjcsnlynn
jjcsnlynn is offline
3rd Gear
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Delaware
Posts: 154
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Racingguy04 View Post
How do you know it's in closed or open loop? I just replaced my thermostat yesterday and it's running noticeably cooler, 180-196 degrees F. It's also 33 degrees and raining outside...
Scangauge
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tag1260
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
3
10-13-2015 10:23 PM
StroppyDog
R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+)
0
06-19-2015 04:46 PM
Dr. J
Stock Problems/Issues
4
12-27-2010 07:44 AM
Justjones
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
02-04-2010 03:33 PM
cupoftea
Stock Problems/Issues
38
10-03-2005 02:22 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Normal operating temp?


Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.