Coolant leak
Moving you to the Stock Problems/Issues area.
A coolant leak behind/under the SC on the drive side is normally the waterpump and/or the Tstat housing. Lots of pipes in that area. The waterpump also has a special female fitting that attaches to the motor block. The fitting has both an o-ring and a gasket.
A coolant leak behind/under the SC on the drive side is normally the waterpump and/or the Tstat housing. Lots of pipes in that area. The waterpump also has a special female fitting that attaches to the motor block. The fitting has both an o-ring and a gasket.
Moving you to the Stock Problems/Issues area.
A coolant leak behind/under the SC on the drive side is normally the waterpump and/or the Tstat housing. Lots of pipes in that area. The waterpump also has a special female fitting that attaches to the motor block. The fitting has both an o-ring and a gasket.
A coolant leak behind/under the SC on the drive side is normally the waterpump and/or the Tstat housing. Lots of pipes in that area. The waterpump also has a special female fitting that attaches to the motor block. The fitting has both an o-ring and a gasket.
You can change the pump without removing the supercharger but it is easier if you remove the driver side SC horn that will then allow you to get the BPV out of the way. Be sure to remove the motor block flange bolts before you try to take the waterpump out.
Oh no that stinks.
As you can see in the diy how the pump mounts and what it looks like you should weld it back on but it looks like cast. So thats going to be hard to do. Even if you still have the piece. You still have one tab to hold all of it and about 1/3rd tab to hold the other side of the protruding part. Test: I would take the old water pump apart and half and tun the impeller by hand with the serpentine belt off and see if the SC impeller turn easy without skipping or slack. To make sure the insert on the pump side teeth will engage on the SC tooth and a half that left.
Water pup DIY here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-mcs-only.html
As you can see in the diy how the pump mounts and what it looks like you should weld it back on but it looks like cast. So thats going to be hard to do. Even if you still have the piece. You still have one tab to hold all of it and about 1/3rd tab to hold the other side of the protruding part. Test: I would take the old water pump apart and half and tun the impeller by hand with the serpentine belt off and see if the SC impeller turn easy without skipping or slack. To make sure the insert on the pump side teeth will engage on the SC tooth and a half that left.
Water pup DIY here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-mcs-only.html
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Hedjuk
Stock Problems/Issues
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Oct 22, 2011 08:07 PM







