Hello everyone. My 2005 R53 had P1688 fault code last week. It caused by the split stock crank pulley. Now I'm gonna replace it with PRW FluidGel and also the oil seal behind.

I've found that there's no timing marks on the pulley. Is it necessary to match up the engine timing in order to get the best dampening performance? or just it doesn't matter?

For the oil seal behind the crank pulley, do I need to drain the engine oil before replacing the oil seal? I'm not sure if I don't, the engine oil will spill from the timing sprocket or not.

Thank you!

 

Ok, first below is a ModMini video on what you will be doing, no, you do not need to drain the oil. The biggest issue is making sure you have a good high strength rod to insert into the crank to pull against. You also need to maker sure you have the bolts threaded into the OEM pulley fully. Pelican Parts also has a good DIY on the crank pulley replacement.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

I rented a puller at an autoparts store. I had to turn the puller around as the typical axle puller has tapered tabs on one side and you cannot get a proper pull with the MINI crank pulley bolt spacing.

 

Thanks for the video link! I've done the pulley replacement before, but had left the old crank seal in place. This time (a different car) I'm going to do both, so it was nice to see.

 

Please let me know if you have any questions or need parts assistance. Also, the great thing about our tech articles are if you get stuck you can leave a comment at the bottom and one of our techs will come in to answer your question. Good luck!

 

I see you are in Hong Kong.

Mini crank pulley has no timing mark as it is not yo ole classic mini of grandpa's era. So nothing to match to.

The engine oil level is well below the front and rear main seals so you don't need to drain the oil to replace the seals, as long as you let the engine rest a while after last running it.

The PRW fluidgel crank pulley seems to be a good contender to the ATI and is cheaper. Please let us know how it turn out. I have ignore it being an option thinking it has a bag of low viscosity fluid.

 

The PRW unit is working out so far for my son's car. It's only been in there for about 10K miles, so time will tell if the fluid in there becomes a problem (or not).

Modmini and the tech articles at Pelican are super helpful. I used a socket extension that fit inside the bore of the hole where the fixing bolt came out to use be used with the puller to get the old pulley off.

 

Good to know there are many chose this alternative. Reading the descriptions on WMW this one sound to be of higher performance (horsepower). I have been feeling that ATI is charging what the market would bear.

 

Thank you for your advice. I've bought 12.9 grade M6 bolts in different length for my generic duck foot puller.

My puller comes with a sharp centering tip. Should I use it to press against the bolt head while pulling the pulley out, or using the puller bolt?


Your tech articles are amazing. I've been searching for parts on your website for a while and I think they are reasonably priced. The only downside is the shipping cost for international order ;(

Thanks for you advice too. Yes, I currently live in Hong Kong. And it's PITA to source aftermarket parts for MINIs. BTW, my R53 is pepper white too.

I guess the PRW unit as far as I know, is the best option to me. This MINI is my daily driver and all it needs is a relatively durable replacement. Plus, it's cheaper.

 

Glad they have helped, regardless if you purchase parts from us. We are working on improving out shipping rates for our international customers so do keep checking back with us.

 

Update: The crank pulley was successfully pulled out. And i'd like to share my experience.

Question: For tightening the crank bolt, besides of 'M6 / screwdriver' method, is it possible if I shift to Reverse, pull up the handbrake, and tighten the bolt?(like a reverse version of how I loosen the crank bolt.)

Thank you!





Tried twice 'M6 bolt / screwdriver' method, all bolts went bent.. They are 12.9 grade bolts but well... they are Chinese made. lol. And the '6th Gear / Brake' method was also a no-go.



Then I lowered down the car, shifted to 6th gear and pulled the handbrake. It got leverage from the weight of the car and the friction of brakes and tyres. The bolt was loosened just right off.



Crank pulley out. Grade 12.9 M12x1.75x120mm bolt, 3 M6x70mm bolts and a cheapo duck foot puller. They worked perfectly. I recommend putting a wood block under the pulley. It sort of protects the crankshaft.



It's nasty and smells like rotten fish...