P053A PCV Heater Circuit Open
P053A PCV Heater Circuit Open
Hey all,
New to this forum. Just got my Mini, A 2012 R56 S!
So I replaced the thermostat housing because of a leak but now I can't get rid of the ETC P053A: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Circuit Open.
I've tried ensuring sure the plugs are in place, zip tied them, applied a bit of RTV to the hose connections... No luck. I've attached some pictures, I just want to see if anyone has any advice before I go ahead and spend $150 on the new hose. Also can someone verify that I'm looking at the correct hose & connection?
P.S. what is the function of a PCV 'heater?'
Thanks,
Bob
New to this forum. Just got my Mini, A 2012 R56 S!
So I replaced the thermostat housing because of a leak but now I can't get rid of the ETC P053A: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Circuit Open.
I've tried ensuring sure the plugs are in place, zip tied them, applied a bit of RTV to the hose connections... No luck. I've attached some pictures, I just want to see if anyone has any advice before I go ahead and spend $150 on the new hose. Also can someone verify that I'm looking at the correct hose & connection?
P.S. what is the function of a PCV 'heater?'
Thanks,
Bob
First time I changed my t'stat housing, I managed to switch the PCV heater connector with the coolant temp sensor connector --- very flimsy connector keys! Heater voltage blew out the coolant sensor, so it had to be replaced. Anyhow, check the connector "keys" to ensure you have the connectors installed in the correct location.
PCV heater is right next to the turbo air inlet --- on the one inch hose at the elbow / tee plumbing. The heater is used to heat air going into the valve cover --- replacing air that is sucked into the intake manifold.
PCV heater is right next to the turbo air inlet --- on the one inch hose at the elbow / tee plumbing. The heater is used to heat air going into the valve cover --- replacing air that is sucked into the intake manifold.
Here's a quick sketch --- a frontal view of a typical electrical connector! These "keys" can be in any configuration, and are intended to keep similar sized connectors from being connected to the wrong mating connector. The "raised" part is supposed to line up with a corresponding "channel" in the mating connector. Unfortunately, this plastic molded material is very "pliable" and can be forced into the wrong mating connector.
Trending Topics
If you have access to an ohm-meter, check the heater for resistance --- should be almost a short circuit, maybe 10 ohms or less? Then try this link for some troubleshooting ideas --- https://www.obd-codes.com/p053a Maybe bookmark the home page for future reference.
Okay so:
-Ohm Meter reads 30 Ohms
-Sprayed brake clean at all terminals and in the PCV hose
-PCV system is definitely not clogged. While engine was idling I removed the oil filler cap and there was suction
Still have the P053A. Any ideas?
-Ohm Meter reads 30 Ohms
-Sprayed brake clean at all terminals and in the PCV hose
-PCV system is definitely not clogged. While engine was idling I removed the oil filler cap and there was suction
Still have the P053A. Any ideas?
Did the new hose fix the code? I've had the same code on my 2011 for some time now, and I suspect it had caused other issues. Thank you for any info.
No, the new hose did not fix the code.
I ended up trying to spray brake clean on the PCM and fried the footwell control module (it controls the windows and other accessories). At this point I had pretty much given up and taken it to the dealer. The dealer fixed the code saying the only problem was that one plug was loose, the plug that is in the middle of the hose going from the air intake to the air box. I had messed with that plug so much and zip tied it and everything. To be honest I'm still not totally sure I believe the dealer. Also I have no clue how that plug is related to the PCV heating system in the first place... pretty sure that's a mass airflow sensor
No, the new hose did not fix the code.
I ended up trying to spray brake clean on the PCM and fried the footwell control module (it controls the windows and other accessories). At this point I had pretty much given up and taken it to the dealer. The dealer fixed the code saying the only problem was that one plug was loose, the plug that is in the middle of the hose going from the air intake to the air box. I had messed with that plug so much and zip tied it and everything. To be honest I'm still not totally sure I believe the dealer. Also I have no clue how that plug is related to the PCV heating system in the first place... pretty sure that's a mass airflow sensor
There were cars that left the factory with unmonitored PCV control, so when it was found out about MINI was required to monitor it. In the under hood fuse box check for a missing relay in the center, and a possibly correlating missing fuse in the right bank of fuses, I believe it was a 7.5a fuse.
I've seen more cars that the fuse is there but the relay isn't.
Open PCV Heater
This car never had a code until yesterday and never had the relay or fuse installed at factory. Replace relay and fuse and code cleared. That was after I verified wiring to and from DME to heater and heater itself. I was ready to condemn the DME but was informed about the relay and fuse from a local MINI dealer.
P053a code & AC/Heater Fan
So I just changed my thermostat housing. Car is running great, no leaks, coolant is filled. Shut it off to take it off the jack stands and get ready to drive around the block but the CEL comes on and the P053a code comes up AND my AC/Heater fan won't change speed. It's stuck on low. I've Checked, checked and triple checked all the plugs, fuses...everthing is where it should be and fuses are good.
Hey all,
New to this forum. Just got my Mini, A 2012 R56 S!
So I replaced the thermostat housing because of a leak but now I can't get rid of the ETC P053A: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Circuit Open.
I've tried ensuring sure the plugs are in place, zip tied them, applied a bit of RTV to the hose connections... No luck. I've attached some pictures, I just want to see if anyone has any advice before I go ahead and spend $150 on the new hose. Also can someone verify that I'm looking at the correct hose & connection?
P.S. what is the function of a PCV 'heater?'
Thanks,
Bob
New to this forum. Just got my Mini, A 2012 R56 S!
So I replaced the thermostat housing because of a leak but now I can't get rid of the ETC P053A: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Circuit Open.
I've tried ensuring sure the plugs are in place, zip tied them, applied a bit of RTV to the hose connections... No luck. I've attached some pictures, I just want to see if anyone has any advice before I go ahead and spend $150 on the new hose. Also can someone verify that I'm looking at the correct hose & connection?
P.S. what is the function of a PCV 'heater?'
Thanks,
Bob
Just had to change the coolant temperature sensor, but originally thought it was the housing. If your is the online sensor on the top hose, check that first. If I had, it would have saved a ton on work. PS, mine is the 2013 pre-Jan 31 MFR. When I finished repair work, I got that code. After reading here, I checked the connector and the clip on the PCV hose was holding it out of the plug. Pulling it out of the clip allowed imthe connector to seat properly.
P053A PCV Heater
Hi Guys, I know this is an older post but i recently ran into trouble with my PVC heater (P053A code) on a 2012 R60 and had gathered some helpful information to help others.
The resistance of my old heater that was giving me the trouble was between 25 to 30 ohms depending on temperature.
A new PCV heater assembly right out of the cellophane has a resistance of 15.2 ohms.
The cost was $209 CAD
Problem solved
In the pictures above it is the gizmo on the left
The resistance of my old heater that was giving me the trouble was between 25 to 30 ohms depending on temperature.
A new PCV heater assembly right out of the cellophane has a resistance of 15.2 ohms.
The cost was $209 CAD
Problem solved
In the pictures above it is the gizmo on the left
I have the exact same problem on my 2011 R55s (with a turbo N18 engine). I have checked the connector, it was NOT seated properly. I seated it but the error stays. Tried clearing the error also, it comes back.
I measured the resistance of my PCV heater. In a very cold garage, it measured 53 ohms. Hmmm... maybe it needs to be replaced.
I measured the resistance of my PCV heater. In a very cold garage, it measured 53 ohms. Hmmm... maybe it needs to be replaced.
Hi Guys, I know this is an older post but i recently ran into trouble with my PVC heater (P053A code) on a 2012 R60 and had gathered some helpful information to help others.
The resistance of my old heater that was giving me the trouble was between 25 to 30 ohms depending on temperature.
A new PCV heater assembly right out of the cellophane has a resistance of 15.2 ohms.
The cost was $209 CAD
Problem solved
In the pictures above it is the gizmo on the left
The resistance of my old heater that was giving me the trouble was between 25 to 30 ohms depending on temperature.
A new PCV heater assembly right out of the cellophane has a resistance of 15.2 ohms.
The cost was $209 CAD
Problem solved
In the pictures above it is the gizmo on the left
I have the exact same problem on my 2011 R55s (with a turbo N18 engine). I have checked the connector, it was NOT seated properly. I seated it but the error stays. Tried clearing the error also, it comes back.
I measured the resistance of my PCV heater. In a very cold garage, it measured 53 ohms. Hmmm... maybe it needs to be replaced.
I measured the resistance of my PCV heater. In a very cold garage, it measured 53 ohms. Hmmm... maybe it needs to be replaced.
Check the fuses in the fuse block in the engine compartment. I was just having a small issue with this because my plug is broken and a wire came loose and grounded. The wiring diagrams I found show the fuse at F07 under the hood. But that fuse was fine, F01 was blown and fixed the problem.
ok thanks, I will check later on today...when I get home.
Good luck, I still had to go in with my scan tool to clear the code, but it would not let me before the fuse was changed. It was showing the code as “present” as in active..... but when I scanned it after the fuse, it said “not present “ and I knew I was good, the code cleared after that.



