When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hard brake lines (pipes?) under driver side very rusted. Replacement identification?
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Hard brake lines (pipes?) under driver side very rusted. Replacement identification?
The hard brake lines under the driver side of my '02 R50 look very rusted and I'd like to replace them before they blowout. What parts are these? I've look for parts and have one found individual part line drawings but no overall drawing of the parts in location to make sure they are the right parts.
Are they available pre-bent or do I need to bend to fit? ECS shows them unbent. If I need to bend them how are they to bend? I've seen some plier-like tools to bend brake line tubing. I assume I'll have to get a pair of those?
I don't have a flare tool so I'd like to get a premade part.
About 25 years ago I used (and still have to this day) this tool:
Bending lines is easy.
Doing it correctly with 3 dimensions of bending is an art-form to make it look good.
If you've never done it before, it's likely you'll do a functioning job, but it may not look that amazing (if that matters). You may want to run to your local auto parts store to get some straight line and try to learn how to bend before you go for the real deal.
Are you sure they are rusty?
Generally the tubes are alloy...they don't rust very readily...usually the flex lines that go from the hard-lines to the calipers are the parts that fail from age....
Look closely before before do extra work.....
Had the same problem on a BMW. Painted steel. Never seen Aluminum brake lines on a modern car. Anyway, had the same issue - BMW sells them with the ends properly flared, but not bent to shape. Most auto parts stores also sell straight sections, but then you have to cut to length and do the special reverse flare. You can buy fancier alloys online - nickel alloy or stainless if you are so inclined.
Ouch...in 10 years of salt and the even nastier mag-chloride I haven't seen one like that on a modern car...never mind my mini....good catch. Just shows how getting under your car and looking around is a good thing.
My suggestion...but a flare kit at Harbour-freight...then go there work....
I kinda doubt buying the model specific length parts unbent will save you $$ vs getting a length, then trimming to fit with a cheap flare tool.....
My suggestion...but a flare kit at Harbour-freight...then go there work....
I kinda doubt buying the model specific length parts unbent will save you $$ vs getting a length, then trimming to fit with a cheap flare tool.....
I thought the flare on these were more than a basic flare kit can do? Someone described it as a double reverse?
Yes. Single flare is not sufficient - they aren't that strong.
I remember them as something called a bubble flare, but they may be a double flare. You can buy tools that do these as well as single flare.
Making good flares is an art. Practice on some scrap tubing if you haven't done it before. Having good flares is the best reason to get the pre-flared tubing from the dealer. And it will have the correct size threaded fittings.
I had mine done at the dealer on my 2006 MCS since I couldn't do it myself. I noticed the original lines were silver metal colored (not coated.) The new lines were black. It cost a lot and I couldn't help but wonder if there was a problem with the original spec lines and that is why the replacement lines were black.
Yes. Single flare is not sufficient - they aren't that strong.
I remember them as something called a bubble flare, but they may be a double flare. You can buy tools that do these as well as single flare.
Making good flares is an art. Practice on some scrap tubing if you haven't done it before. Having good flares is the best reason to get the pre-flared tubing from the dealer. And it will have the correct size threaded fittings.
Well I have to do this on my R52, the lines are pretty chewed up from the salt and the one line went. The schwaben tool linked above works well and can get those bends. The old school tool does a nicer 90 degree. Its easier to buy them flared if you are not good at the flare game. I have flared lines on older american cars and it does take some practice.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES61518__ES2672791/
About 25 years ago I used (and still have to this day) this tool:
Bending lines is easy.
Doing it correctly with 3 dimensions of bending is an art-form to make it look good.
If you've never done it before, it's likely you'll do a functioning job, but it may not look that amazing (if that matters). You may want to run to your local auto parts store to get some straight line and try to learn how to bend before you go for the real deal.
The flares on brake lines are called “double” flares and the are difficult to get done correctly. You need a good flare tool. Don’t get the harbor freight tool. I did and it makes a difficult job much harder. The tube has to be cut exactly square and be flat and perpendicular to the tube in order to get an even flare. If the tool isn’t well made and tight it will allow the tube to flare unevenly and the result will be a leaky fitting. Spend a few extra dollars and get a good tool. There’s a reason good tools are considerably more expensive. You can do it with the HF tool but you may end of cutting off the first or second attempt to get it right. I do have the HF bending tool and it works well.
I bought the pre-made brake lines because I was worried about getting a good flare. I don't expect to have to do brake lines again so I really didn't want to invest in a good flare tool. I did buy the Harbor Freight plier type benders and they worked fine for this job.
I ended up a little short after forming up the premade line. I worked from front to back. I noticed this was going to happen with a few bends left so I tried to make up some length. In the end I did get it to fit but had to go a little straighter over the wheel well. I was very careful throughout the bending to try to be accurate. That would be the big advantage of rolling your own- you can cut the length after you've formed it all.
Nice low cost hand bending tool. I like Schwaben products, like the pressure brake bleeder that is very well design and even look gorgeous. I should point out it is ergonomic in many respects especially.
Thanks! I got one for my father in law and his dad last year. The salt does numbers on cars up here and when you get some miles and age the hard lines take a beating, when they saw me bend the lines on the MINI, they were like ....hey that easy get me one of those for Christmas.
I know this is an old thread but I just finished making up and installing lines on mine and have been really curious as to what the dealer charges.
Do you recall the cost?
I know this is an old thread but I just finished making up and installing lines on mine and have been really curious as to what the dealer charges.
Do you recall the cost?
robj
It was long enough ago that I don't remember the cost. I think it was a few hundred, but can't get any more exact than that. If you really want I could see if I still have the bill.
Hold everything. I was way off! I just looked it up and the entire brake line replacement with parts and labor cost about $2200.00 This was back in 2015. I sure could have used you as a local friend back then
Hold everything. I was way off! I just looked it up and the entire brake line replacement with parts and labor cost about $2200.00 This was back in 2015. I sure could have used you as a local friend back then
Wow!!! Thanks for looking and sharing that. I've been wondering what it would cost. It's probably $2500 today. I feel a lot better about my investment it time at that price. The materials were about $50. A coil of tube and a few fittings.
06-05-2016, 08:19 AM
