i called that one ☝️

 

whoa that's a lot. I just need the hard lines on my R53 replaced, the lines going to the master cylinder and to each disc are fine, but the hard line underneath is rusting out.. looks like the section that is almost going behind the fuel tank is pretty corroded too. Should i expect to pay up to $2500 as well??

 

Vast,

I believe that was the cost from a dealer. [in 2015] I think a "regular " shop would be a bit less. But, having done it myself it is quite a bit of work with all the componits that need to be removed.
The pre-bent lines are NLA so no matter who you go to they're going to have to bend the lines. I have quite a few photos of what I did on my "Bargain $500 Mini" thread so you can get an idea what it entails.
I was on the ground using jack stands and a lift would have made it a little easier but it took me about a week of every evening. Not an easy job especially if you want it as neat as the factory did it.
If you get it done at an independent shop, please post what you end up paying for the job.
I would avoid the dealer unless you have a fat wallet.
It's funny how the rear portion of the lines rust so much and the front not at all.

robj

 

@robj you are correct, the price I listed above was from a dealership back in 2015.

 

Thanks for the reply robj!
I probably will get the parts through the dealer at least- will they pre-bend for you? Also, I can't seem to find the part number for the hard line on realoem or kennesaw, does anyone have links for an R53? Thanks all!

 

They are all linked above on the post #15.

They are not pre bent, i have done this on my MINI with Genuine MINI brake lines and then fluid and that tool.

 

Vast,
I've not heard of anyone pre-bending the brake lines. I looked at all the aftermarket resources I've used in the past and none list Mini's.

I'm actually not sure why you would get the lines from the dealer as they are just a straight section of steel brake line that you can get at your nearest auto parts store. You'll just pay twice as much money for the lines.
Also, as opposed to steel, or stainless steel I would humbly [strongly] suggest using nickel-copper lines. They have great corrosion resistance and are much, much easier to bend than steel lines. In fact all but the tightest bends can be done by hand.

For the inexperienced the hardest part is getting the correct "bubble flare". You CANNOT use a single flare on brake lines.

I did a post in "Hatch Talk" separate from my build thread as I thought others might find it helpful

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...es-really.html

Please do not take offense as none is intended and I don't know what your skill level is. But after looking at the brake line post if you have any doubts about your ability to do this correctly either find help from someone who does have the experience or pay a garage. I'm 68 and have been fixing stuff since probably 10 years old, rebuilding engines, full paint jobs, restoring antique motorcycles, you name it and this isn't a plug and play type of task. It was a little fiddly to say the least.
After all it is brakes we're talking about.

If you are comfortable with doing this I'm sure everyone on the forum, myself included will be happy to help in anyway possible.
robj