Oil pressure light at idle
#1
Oil pressure light at idle
Hey everyone,
Just to get started I wanna let you guys know I have a 2007 MCS (r56 - n14)
Alright so now to the problem. I know there have been multiple threads on this issue but I can't seem to find a solution to my specific problem. After the engine gets warmed up completely to operating Temps, the red "oil pressure low" light Will flash on and off at idle. My oil level is completely fine, I check it every morning before I drive. I've replaced the valve cover, and gaskets, the oil pan gasket and the oil filter housing gasket. There are no visible leaks what so ever. No drits under my car and no oil burning off while at OT. My thoughts are that it's anot electrical problem, but it still doesn't add up because the minute I put any input into the throttle it goes away. I haven't had the issue until recently and I've had the car for a year and a half.
If some of you gurus on here could lend a word of advice, it would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tyler
Just to get started I wanna let you guys know I have a 2007 MCS (r56 - n14)
Alright so now to the problem. I know there have been multiple threads on this issue but I can't seem to find a solution to my specific problem. After the engine gets warmed up completely to operating Temps, the red "oil pressure low" light Will flash on and off at idle. My oil level is completely fine, I check it every morning before I drive. I've replaced the valve cover, and gaskets, the oil pan gasket and the oil filter housing gasket. There are no visible leaks what so ever. No drits under my car and no oil burning off while at OT. My thoughts are that it's anot electrical problem, but it still doesn't add up because the minute I put any input into the throttle it goes away. I haven't had the issue until recently and I've had the car for a year and a half.
If some of you gurus on here could lend a word of advice, it would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tyler
#3
Nice ride
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-warning.html
Losing coolant? Change oil filter n see if it goes away
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-warning.html
Losing coolant? Change oil filter n see if it goes away
Last edited by E36-E46-R56lifewhuuuh?; 05-16-2016 at 09:11 PM.
#4
Nice ride
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-warning.html
Losing coolant? Change oil filter n see if it goes away
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-warning.html
Losing coolant? Change oil filter n see if it goes away
#5
6th Gear
iTrader: (4)
If you can, I would try to verify oil pressure with an actual test gauge, from the same source as your oil pressure sending unit. Hope that it's just a sending unit failure. Other than that, could be loose crank or rod bearing issues, or a clogged pickup in the oil sump. Is your oil pan crushed in at all?
#6
If you can, I would try to verify oil pressure with an actual test gauge, from the same source as your oil pressure sending unit. Hope that it's just a sending unit failure. Other than that, could be loose crank or rod bearing issues, or a clogged pickup in the oil sump. Is your oil pan crushed in at all?
#7
6th Gear
iTrader: (4)
The external gauge is the way to go, then. You could also just try replacing the sending unit. I hear ya on the cheap fixes. Those are always the best. I have seen other engines with plastic cam timing components go bad, and the broken plastic parts are replaced, but the old plastic debris is still floating around in the oil system, often times clogging the oil pick-up.
Last edited by renchjeep; 05-16-2016 at 09:39 PM.
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#8
I'll just have to bite the bullet and get one for peace of mind. I've replaced the sending unit twice with no change. Thanks for the help
#9
The light is already telling you that the pressure is low at idle the gauge will obviously confirm this but I'm not sure that will help you trace the source of the problem. I swear I've had this exact problem with bikes flickering oil pressure light at idle and it's always coolant soaking the oil filter over time. U change the filter and the light disappears then there's your problem. If it stays you have big problems as mentioned above
Last edited by E36-E46-R56lifewhuuuh?; 05-16-2016 at 10:10 PM.
#10
6th Gear
iTrader: (4)
Depending upon mileage, and if a chain and guide change has been done, I might just drop the oil pan and see what's in there. Could just be a clogged oil pickup. When MINI does a chain and guide change, do they drop the pan and clean the pickup? I have seen other engines fail just because the oil pick-up was not cleaned out.
Last edited by renchjeep; 05-16-2016 at 10:12 PM.
#11
The light is already telling you that the pressure is low at idle the gauge will obviously confirm this but I'm not sure that will help you trace the source of the problem. I swear I've had this exact problem with bikes flickering oil pressure light at idle and it's always coolant soaking the oil filter over time. U change the filter and the light disappears then there's your problem. If it stays you have big problems as mentioned above
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MVPeters (04-22-2021)
#12
Depending upon mileage, and if a chain and guide change has been done, I might just drop the oil pan and see what's in there. Could just be a clogged oil pickup. When MINI does a chain and guide change, do they drop the pan and clean the pickup? I have seen other engines fail just because the oil pick-up was not cleaned out.
#13
You've confirmed that you're using a non-OEM oil filter, .....when last was the oil and filter changed, and what is your typical oil/filter change frequency, what oil used.
I would start by changing the oil and filter (OEM) and then move on to measuring the oil pressure with a gauge.
I would start by changing the oil and filter (OEM) and then move on to measuring the oil pressure with a gauge.
Last edited by 1004ron; 05-17-2016 at 05:35 AM.
The following users liked this post:
MVPeters (04-22-2021)
#14
That is a clear indication that there's an oil flow obstruction, such as the filter, or worn bearings etc. preventing back-pressure when the pump delivery is lowest at low rpm, or a worn oil pump.
#15
I change my oil pretty frequently. I never go passed 3000 miles before changing it. Yeah I'm gonna buy a oem mini filter and hope for the best. Are there any other symptoms to look for if the oil pump was falling? Thanks for the reply
#16
#17
You've confirmed that you're using a non-OEM oil filter, .....when last was the oil and filter changed, and what is your typical oil/filter change frequency, what oil used.
I would start by changing the oil and filter (OEM) and then move on to measuring the oil pressure with a gauge.
I would start by changing the oil and filter (OEM) and then move on to measuring the oil pressure with a gauge.
I've said it before an ill say it again I promise it's not your oil pump. These things are chain driven off the crank and the gear lobes do not make contact. It's one of the most robust parts your vehicle has on it and will most definitely outlast the motor. I've yet to see an example of an oil pump failing in any motor.
Everyone's first thought is "oil pump" I understand that seems like the most obvious answer but your flow problems lie elsewhere, trust me. These things just don't wear out like people think. I'm just saying oil pump failure would be my very very last guess.
Has anyone here ever had to replace an oil pump in their lifetime? I would find it hard to believe.
A new filter will only be a temporary fix youll still need to determine what's clogging the filter (headgasket, turbo housing, any other places where coolant can mix with oil.)
Last edited by E36-E46-R56lifewhuuuh?; 05-17-2016 at 01:27 PM.
#18
You really need to find out why your oil pressure light is on now not later. Continuing to drive your car while it shows low oil pressure is the fast track to a new engine. Like has already been said, get a mechanical gauge & verify what your oil pressure is. Do it today not next week. You want a cheap fix, but you are headed for a very expensive one. Good luck & I hope it is a cheap fix for you.
#19
You really need to find out why your oil pressure light is on now not later. Continuing to drive your car while it shows low oil pressure is the fast track to a new engine. Like has already been said, get a mechanical gauge & verify what your oil pressure is. Do it today not next week. You want a cheap fix, but you are headed for a very expensive one. Good luck & I hope it is a cheap fix for you.
#20
Why? I don't see the justification in purchasing a guage when the light is already telling you the pressure is low. What exactly do you plan on accomplishing with aforementioned gauge other than confirming something you already know? Why waste the money? You could just replace the ops for that price and eliminate that from the equation.
I've said it before an ill say it again I promise it's not your oil pump. These things are chain driven off the crank and the gear lobes do not make contact. It's one of the most robust parts your vehicle has on it and will most definitely outlast the motor. I've yet to see an example of an oil pump failing in any motor.
Everyone's first thought is "oil pump" I understand that seems like the most obvious answer but your flow problems lie elsewhere, trust me. These things just don't wear out like people think. I'm just saying oil pump failure would be my very very last guess.
Has anyone here ever had to replace an oil pump in their lifetime? I would find it hard to believe.
A new filter will only be a temporary fix youll still need to determine what's clogging the filter (headgasket, turbo housing, any other places where coolant can mix with oil.)
I've said it before an ill say it again I promise it's not your oil pump. These things are chain driven off the crank and the gear lobes do not make contact. It's one of the most robust parts your vehicle has on it and will most definitely outlast the motor. I've yet to see an example of an oil pump failing in any motor.
Everyone's first thought is "oil pump" I understand that seems like the most obvious answer but your flow problems lie elsewhere, trust me. These things just don't wear out like people think. I'm just saying oil pump failure would be my very very last guess.
Has anyone here ever had to replace an oil pump in their lifetime? I would find it hard to believe.
A new filter will only be a temporary fix youll still need to determine what's clogging the filter (headgasket, turbo housing, any other places where coolant can mix with oil.)
#21
Why? I don't see the justification in purchasing a guage when the light is already telling you the pressure is low. What exactly do you plan on accomplishing with aforementioned gauge other than confirming something you already know? Why waste the money? You could just replace the ops for that price and eliminate that from the equation.
I've said it before an ill say it again I promise it's not your oil pump. These things are chain driven off the crank and the gear lobes do not make contact. It's one of the most robust parts your vehicle has on it and will most definitely outlast the motor. I've yet to see an example of an oil pump failing in any motor.
Everyone's first thought is "oil pump" I understand that seems like the most obvious answer but your flow problems lie elsewhere, trust me. These things just don't wear out like people think. I'm just saying oil pump failure would be my very very last guess.
Has anyone here ever had to replace an oil pump in their lifetime? I would find it hard to believe.
A new filter will only be a temporary fix youll still need to determine what's clogging the filter (headgasket, turbo housing, any other places where coolant can mix with oil.)
I've said it before an ill say it again I promise it's not your oil pump. These things are chain driven off the crank and the gear lobes do not make contact. It's one of the most robust parts your vehicle has on it and will most definitely outlast the motor. I've yet to see an example of an oil pump failing in any motor.
Everyone's first thought is "oil pump" I understand that seems like the most obvious answer but your flow problems lie elsewhere, trust me. These things just don't wear out like people think. I'm just saying oil pump failure would be my very very last guess.
Has anyone here ever had to replace an oil pump in their lifetime? I would find it hard to believe.
A new filter will only be a temporary fix youll still need to determine what's clogging the filter (headgasket, turbo housing, any other places where coolant can mix with oil.)
#22
Maybe someone else can chime in on how to test headgaskets or other ways coolant can mix with oil on these engine. The only method I was aware of was just to replace it lol (wrong). Here's what I found, I like this dude because he explains how there could be many other causes. At 21:00 he starts going over easier backyard tests bubbles in reservoir etc...
I think the easiest way to tell is to send a $20 oil sample to black stone and they'll tell you exactly what's in there
Last edited by E36-E46-R56lifewhuuuh?; 05-17-2016 at 02:12 PM.
#23
Are you losing coolant? Might want to pull some out of the res with a turkey blaster and see how it looks.
Maybe someone else can chime in on how to test headgaskets as the only method I was aware of was just to replace it. If you have coolant occurring in the oil system that's probably the most common issue. Here's what I found
12 Ways of How To Test A Blown Head Gasket Compared- PART1 - YouTube
Maybe someone else can chime in on how to test headgaskets as the only method I was aware of was just to replace it. If you have coolant occurring in the oil system that's probably the most common issue. Here's what I found
12 Ways of How To Test A Blown Head Gasket Compared- PART1 - YouTube
#25
You've confirmed that you're using a non-OEM oil filter, .....when last was the oil and filter changed, and what is your typical oil/filter change frequency, what oil used.
I would start by changing the oil and filter (OEM) and then move on to measuring the oil pressure with a gauge.
I would start by changing the oil and filter (OEM) and then move on to measuring the oil pressure with a gauge.
It states in my Bentley Manual if tests show low oil pressure, indicates a worm or faulty oil pump or faulty pressure relief valve. Test oil pressure by removing oil pressure switch and installing oil pressure gauge in its place. It also says if red light is flashing indicating low oil pressure assume that oil pressure is low, stop engine and immediately make arrangements to test oil pressure.
The valve-train is first inline to suffer damage from low oil pressure and or low oil levels especially while sitting at a red light minutes on end, having plenty of oil in the crankcase isn't enough. If you must drive then I would suggest you rev it whenever stationary. The Bentley Manual is the one to get for sure, there is the older version and the newer updated version. Get the updated version if you can.
The valve-train is first inline to suffer damage from low oil pressure and or low oil levels especially while sitting at a red light minutes on end, having plenty of oil in the crankcase isn't enough. If you must drive then I would suggest you rev it whenever stationary. The Bentley Manual is the one to get for sure, there is the older version and the newer updated version. Get the updated version if you can.
Well, oil change and a new BMW/Mini filter appears to have solved it .
If I was to guess - I'd suggest it was an aftermarket filter causing the issue. I pulled 4L of used oil that wasn't 'clean', but it also didn't look horrible by any means. We'll see what happens over the next few weeks and few thousand kilometres....
I'll update again here if it reappears.
If I was to guess - I'd suggest it was an aftermarket filter causing the issue. I pulled 4L of used oil that wasn't 'clean', but it also didn't look horrible by any means. We'll see what happens over the next few weeks and few thousand kilometres....
I'll update again here if it reappears.