And most likely did that while using poor quality oil filters, .......nevertheless, a systematic diagnostic approach is best, and as of right now he might well have resolved his problem, and needs to assess that first.

 

That castrol is not right believe it or not. It may say fully synthetic but that's on the American Api scale. It's not. I second u should stick with the proper weight. I use liquimoly, u can order it online for the same price....

If you don't believe me this video explains why the api is crap... You really do need ACEA rated A3 B4 oil. That castrol is far from it. API rated oils only need to be past 1% synthetic to claim they are "fully" synthetic.

This is probably for a different thread but should be addressed when choosing your oil.

 

It's been less than 3000 miles. I do my changes more frequently than 3000 miles

 

Yeah ill get back to everyone once I do a road test tomorrow afternoon.

 

Road test was a success! I let the car warm up to OT and then took it on a spirited drive. Then went to run errands. The "oil pressure low" light didn't come on at any of the stop lights or any time I was idling for an extended period of time. Looks like changing to OEM oil filter has fixed the problem. For now at least. Thanks everyone for the help in this thread!

Tyler

 

While I'm glad you haven't had any low oil pressure warnings after changing the oil filter, I doubt it's as simple as an oil filter causing an issue that has been a reoccurring problem with two different owners. To be safe I would definitely install a gauge and check your oil pressure at idle to avoid even more costly repairs. Whatever you do I would use BG EPR or Liqui Moly Detox to clean out all the baked on carbon in the oil channels, it's the least expensive option. Anyone who hasn't done this before will be shocked by the fine carbon silt that drains out with the oil!

What wheels are you running with?

 

I used the BG product in around November 2015 and it did get rid of a lot of gunk! I definitely recommend it. As for the gauge, I'm working on saving some $$ up to get a boost and oil pressure gauge setup. I'm running RPM wheels btw. They're a lesser known brand, only about 450 for a set. I didn't wanna drop a bunch of money on wheels for them to get scratched up. But I haven't had any problems whatsoever with them! They look and feel great after a year with em!

Tyler

 

How's it going?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...warning-2.html

 

All is well! I haven't had the light come on a single time since I changed the filter. It's amazing that something like that could make a difference. Oil seems to be staying cleaner longer as well. And it's not burning off as much since I switched to 0w-40.

 

sorry about reviving this OLD thread but this issue just appeared in my 2012 MC. ShadyCoop what was the oil that you originally used before switching to 0W40?

Thanks, David

 

Hey David,

Wow, it's been so long that my memory might not be 100%; I've actually sold the MINI a couple of years ago.

I'm almost positive that the oil I was using was Castrol's full synthetic, 5w30.

Hope that helps! It's a crappy issue to have.

Tyler

 

I cannot understand how a different brand of reputable brand oil of the same weight could possible cause a low oil pressure light. Most interesting.

 

I believe it's less about the oil and more about the oil filter. Once I switched to the MINI-specific filters ("higher quality" I guess) the problem went away.

Could be a combination of both, though.

Tyler

 

My guess might be the Oil pump or the pumps Pick-up may be partially clogged. Low pressure until higher temps, and RPM's. Just a guess.

 

That makes more sense. I always use WIX. Which filters are you using?

 

I realize this is an older thread and having a 1st Gen Mini - I may have no business chiming in...

This thread, although maybe helpful in diagnosing the cause or probability of low oil pressure - never really answered the question - what should the oil pressure be at idle/OT and cruising, e.g: @ 3,000 rpms?
Although, my 04 R53 (100k + mi) does not exhibit a flickering oil pressure warning light (the light does work), in addition; I also have a mechanical oil pressure gauge mounted on the column.
The light on the dash turns on at start and goes out promptly thereafter during warmup/idle. I run Castrol FS 5w20.
My gauge reads: 35-40psi upon start up, drops to 23-28psi @ idle/OT, @ OT/cruising, sits @ 25- 32psi @ 3,000rpms, drops down to 2psi @ OT while stopped/idling at a red light (depending how many miles/hot the engine is).
I removed my pressure sending unit and hooked up a pressure gauge directly to the oil filter/block. I discovered my my mechanical oil pressure gauge is off by as much as 3psi.
Having confirmed the actual oil pressure with an independent gauge directly at the oil filter housing, was the only (simplest for me) true way to be sure oil pressure accuracy.

I am confident and safe knowing for certain.

So, for anyone who is interested: (For a 1st Gen Mini R50/R52/R53) the Bentley manual states normal oil pressure @ OT/idle = 3.6psi and between 25-80psi @ OT/cruising speed @3,000 + rpms

Hope this might help anyone with a Mini to know what their normal oil pressure should be at idle and cruising at normal operating temperature.

 

3.6! Mine never drops that low at idle with engine fully warmed up. Maybe 15 psi.. I'll need to double check.
​

 

Yes - I was also shocked when I read 3.6psi @ temp/idle
That was taken from the Bentley for 2002 - 2006 1st gen Minis. I know nothing about 2nd gens.
I must redact my comment regarding my initial startup oil pressure: my oil pressure is between 48 - 55psi at start up and about 7psi at idle/ temp and after driving.