Oil pressure light at idle
3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 220
Likes: 5
From: Fort Collins, CO
OK, let's un-complicate things.
You have no evidence of a bad head gasket. Also, when diagnosing problems, the smart tactic is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause the problem and start there.
One thing that jumps out at me is that oil pressure sending units in many cars are notorious for dying early. You may have no problem at all other than a pressure sensing unit that is no longer accurate. That's the simple answer.
The other simple but expensive answer is a bad oil pump. So - what you NEED TO DO: get the oil pressure checked with a gauge. If it's good, then regardless of what the trouble light says, you know you're OK. You haven't done this yet, so there is no point in speculating about complex solutions like head gaskets.
Get that done.
If pressure is OK, then replace the pressure sensing unit and you'll be OK.
If pressure is NOT OK, then you have a real problem that needs to be addressed and you should park the car until it has been fixed.
You have no evidence of a bad head gasket. Also, when diagnosing problems, the smart tactic is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause the problem and start there.
One thing that jumps out at me is that oil pressure sending units in many cars are notorious for dying early. You may have no problem at all other than a pressure sensing unit that is no longer accurate. That's the simple answer.
The other simple but expensive answer is a bad oil pump. So - what you NEED TO DO: get the oil pressure checked with a gauge. If it's good, then regardless of what the trouble light says, you know you're OK. You haven't done this yet, so there is no point in speculating about complex solutions like head gaskets.
Get that done.
If pressure is OK, then replace the pressure sensing unit and you'll be OK.
If pressure is NOT OK, then you have a real problem that needs to be addressed and you should park the car until it has been fixed.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
OK, let's un-complicate things.
You have no evidence of a bad head gasket. Also, when diagnosing problems, the smart tactic is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause the problem and start there.
One thing that jumps out at me is that oil pressure sending units in many cars are notorious for dying early. You may have no problem at all other than a pressure sensing unit that is no longer accurate. That's the simple answer.
The other simple but expensive answer is a bad oil pump. So - what you NEED TO DO: get the oil pressure checked with a gauge. If it's good, then regardless of what the trouble light says, you know you're OK. You haven't done this yet, so there is no point in speculating about complex solutions like head gaskets.
Get that done.
If pressure is OK, then replace the pressure sensing unit and you'll be OK.
If pressure is NOT OK, then you have a real problem that needs to be addressed and you should park the car until it has been fixed.
You have no evidence of a bad head gasket. Also, when diagnosing problems, the smart tactic is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause the problem and start there.
One thing that jumps out at me is that oil pressure sending units in many cars are notorious for dying early. You may have no problem at all other than a pressure sensing unit that is no longer accurate. That's the simple answer.
The other simple but expensive answer is a bad oil pump. So - what you NEED TO DO: get the oil pressure checked with a gauge. If it's good, then regardless of what the trouble light says, you know you're OK. You haven't done this yet, so there is no point in speculating about complex solutions like head gaskets.
Get that done.
If pressure is OK, then replace the pressure sensing unit and you'll be OK.
If pressure is NOT OK, then you have a real problem that needs to be addressed and you should park the car until it has been fixed.
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
OK, let's un-complicate things.
You have no evidence of a bad head gasket. Also, when diagnosing problems, the smart tactic is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause the problem and start there.
One thing that jumps out at me is that oil pressure sending units in many cars are notorious for dying early. You may have no problem at all other than a pressure sensing unit that is no longer accurate. That's the simple answer.
The other simple but expensive answer is a bad oil pump. So - what you NEED TO DO: get the oil pressure checked with a gauge. If it's good, then regardless of what the trouble light says, you know you're OK. You haven't done this yet, so there is no point in speculating about complex solutions like head gaskets.
Get that done.
If pressure is OK, then replace the pressure sensing unit and you'll be OK.
If pressure is NOT OK, then you have a real problem that needs to be addressed and you should park the car until it has been fixed.
You have no evidence of a bad head gasket. Also, when diagnosing problems, the smart tactic is to figure out the simplest thing that could cause the problem and start there.
One thing that jumps out at me is that oil pressure sending units in many cars are notorious for dying early. You may have no problem at all other than a pressure sensing unit that is no longer accurate. That's the simple answer.
The other simple but expensive answer is a bad oil pump. So - what you NEED TO DO: get the oil pressure checked with a gauge. If it's good, then regardless of what the trouble light says, you know you're OK. You haven't done this yet, so there is no point in speculating about complex solutions like head gaskets.
Get that done.
If pressure is OK, then replace the pressure sensing unit and you'll be OK.
If pressure is NOT OK, then you have a real problem that needs to be addressed and you should park the car until it has been fixed.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
And does anyone have a link to a relatively inexpensive oil pressure gauge? What's needed for the install?
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, KY
See the oil pressure switch here.
I don't have the official spec, but typically >20 psi at idle and 40 - 60 psi at cruising rpm.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
Amazon.com: 12 Pc Engine Oil Pressure Tester Gauge Diagnostic Test Kit w/ 10 Fittings 140 PSI: Automotive
Check with your local Autozone, because many of them have this type of thing available on loan.
See the oil pressure switch here.
I don't have the official spec, but typically >20 psi at idle and 40 - 60 psi at cruising rpm.
Check with your local Autozone, because many of them have this type of thing available on loan.
See the oil pressure switch here.
I don't have the official spec, but typically >20 psi at idle and 40 - 60 psi at cruising rpm.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 999
Likes: 10
From: Nunavut
You don't need to install a permanent gauge unless you want to.
As far as what hot pressure at idle should me I'd call Chad at Detroit Tuned or Eric at Helix & ask them. They have worked on many of these cars & should know.
As far as what hot pressure at idle should me I'd call Chad at Detroit Tuned or Eric at Helix & ask them. They have worked on many of these cars & should know.
Did you check to make sure there is not a oil leak near it , just checking before you pressure test.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...replacing.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...replacing.html
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Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
Did you check to make sure there is not a oil leak near it , just checking before you pressure test.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...replacing.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...replacing.html
Thanks!
Tyler
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,037
Likes: 283
From: Melbourne, FL
It was slightly warped and really dirty after only 2500 miles. I also switched to 0w-40 synthetic oil to see if that does anything.
a couple of warning flags come up when I read this .....
one of the warnings about non-oe filters is the tendency to collapse .... I've installed MANY non-oe filters, from quality makers, that did not collapse .... but "cheap" ones DO and this restricts oil flow in addition to not doing their job .... DO NOT GO CHEAP on oil filters
And you switched to .... these cars are built for full synthetic .... if you but dino in it .... I dunno but me thinks NOT GOOD
a couple of warning flags come up when I read this .....
one of the warnings about non-oe filters is the tendency to collapse .... I've installed MANY non-oe filters, from quality makers, that did not collapse .... but "cheap" ones DO and this restricts oil flow in addition to not doing their job .... DO NOT GO CHEAP on oil filters
And you switched to .... these cars are built for full synthetic .... if you but dino in it .... I dunno but me thinks NOT GOOD
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
It was slightly warped and really dirty after only 2500 miles. I also switched to 0w-40 synthetic oil to see if that does anything.
a couple of warning flags come up when I read this .....
one of the warnings about non-oe filters is the tendency to collapse .... I've installed MANY non-oe filters, from quality makers, that did not collapse .... but "cheap" ones DO and this restricts oil flow in addition to not doing their job .... DO NOT GO CHEAP on oil filters
And you switched to .... these cars are built for full synthetic .... if you but dino in it .... I dunno but me thinks NOT GOOD
a couple of warning flags come up when I read this .....
one of the warnings about non-oe filters is the tendency to collapse .... I've installed MANY non-oe filters, from quality makers, that did not collapse .... but "cheap" ones DO and this restricts oil flow in addition to not doing their job .... DO NOT GO CHEAP on oil filters
And you switched to .... these cars are built for full synthetic .... if you but dino in it .... I dunno but me thinks NOT GOOD
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
Hey everyone sorry I was on vacation! But I've arrived back and my OEM mini filter that I got from ECS was waiting for me at home. I just did an oil change today and started it up, let it sit for 6 mins to get it to OT. Then I revved it in neutral a bit, first lower RPM for a while then I revved it high a few times. Let it sit some more to simulate the idling. I haven't seen the light pop up yet since I changed the new filter, but we will see tomorrow when I actually take it out to drive around a little. I haven't pressure tested it yet because I want to see if changing from a cheap filter works first. The old cheap filter I pulled out was horrid. It was slightly warped and really dirty after only 2500 miles. I also switched to 0w-40 synthetic oil to see if that does anything. ECS, I checked around the sensor (that I've replaced twice) and there is no oil seepage whatsoever. And no drits under the car at all after sitting in the garage for a week. We will see what results tomorrow brings! If i still get the light tomorrow, I'm gonna grab a pressure tester and do that.
Thanks!
Tyler
Thanks!
Tyler
These guys can laugh if they want but it seriously sounds like coolant in the oil. Water is the only thing that's going to warp a filter like that aftermarket or not. As far as the source of the coolant in the oil I can't speculate but that's what it sounds like.
The only thing a pressure tester is going to tell you is if your ops is working correctly. You could just replace the ops for $25 bucks without going through the hassle of ordering a pressure tester IMO. I would have to imagine the light is correct and your oil pressure is in fact low at idle given that the ops has already been replaced several times.
I mean lets play this one out... The oil pressure gauge states that my pressure is indeed low at idle just like the light says. Great! Now what??? I mean I don't know what an exact figure is going to tell you besides the same thing the idiot light is telling you which is that your below recommended pressure specs.
It's obviously a flow problem meaning there is a restriction in the system. Oil pumps move volume they do not create pressure. Contrary to popular belief that low oil pressure is automatically from a bad pump.
You've already replaced the ops MULTIPLE times and the problem always goes away with oil filter changes and then resurfaces over time so what does that tell you?
The flow of oil is restricted through the filter. (Problem goes away every time u change the filter)
What's causing the filter to become restricted?
The only answer to that is water. If it's a small amount of water in the system it's going to take longer to become restricted to the point that your oil pressure drops below specs...
Where is the water coming from?
That's what u have to find out
Last edited by E36-E46-R56lifewhuuuh?; May 22, 2016 at 04:35 PM.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
These guys can laugh if they want but it seriously sounds like coolant in the oil. Water is the only thing that's going to warp a filter like that. As far as the source of the coolant in the oil I can't speculate but that's what it sounds like.
The only thing a pressure tester is going to tell you is if your ops is working correctly. You could just replace the ops for $25 bucks without going through the hassle of ordering a pressure tester IMO.
You've already replaced the ops multiple times and the problem always goes away with oil filter changes and then resurfaces over time so what does that tell you?
The flow of oil is restricted through the filter. (Problem goes away every time u change the filter)
What's causing the filter to become restricted?
The only answer to that is water. If it's a small amount of water in the system it's going to take longer to resurface
Where is the water coming from?
That's what u have to find out
The only thing a pressure tester is going to tell you is if your ops is working correctly. You could just replace the ops for $25 bucks without going through the hassle of ordering a pressure tester IMO.
You've already replaced the ops multiple times and the problem always goes away with oil filter changes and then resurfaces over time so what does that tell you?
The flow of oil is restricted through the filter. (Problem goes away every time u change the filter)
What's causing the filter to become restricted?
The only answer to that is water. If it's a small amount of water in the system it's going to take longer to resurface
Where is the water coming from?
That's what u have to find out
Tyler
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
From what you're saying, it sounds like it could very well be that. I took a sample of oil while I was draining it and I'm gonna let it sit to see if the suspected coolant separates from the oil over time. I've heard of that problem with other cars being caused by either a head gasket problem or a cracked head. I haven't lost any coolant over the course of multiple months, so I'm skeptical of that problem, but who knows. Thanks for the reply and suggestion.
Tyler
Tyler
The watery oil was absolutely indistinguishable from normal looking oil.
The engine design was different so the source of the leak would obviously be different (on the bike it was water pump shaft seal), but these types of problems transcend different types of motors and from what you are describing I have had this same experience.
The ONLY way to tell was from a warped filter
Good luck tracing the source of the problem man
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
In bikes the drop in coolant was very small over time, like in ML.... It doesn't take much trust me.
The watery oil was absolutely indistinguishable from normal looking oil.
The engine design was different so the source of the leak would be different obviously, but these types of problems transcend different types of motors and I have had this same experience.
The ONLY way to tell was from a warped filter
Good luck tracing the source of the problem man
The watery oil was absolutely indistinguishable from normal looking oil.
The engine design was different so the source of the leak would be different obviously, but these types of problems transcend different types of motors and I have had this same experience.
The ONLY way to tell was from a warped filter
Good luck tracing the source of the problem man
1st Gear
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Canmore, AB
Are you CERTAIN there's coolant in your oil? I was getting the same 'advice' about coolant leak based on similar symptoms...2000kms after oil and OEM filter swap haven't seen the symptoms recur - not saying they won't, but start with the simple stuff before jumping to extreme conclusions. Hope you figure it out. AND I'm not laughing at the advice yet - just hoping I get the chance to!
Last edited by SKI-R; May 22, 2016 at 05:05 PM. Reason: Updates
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
Are you CERTAIN there's coolant in your oil? I was getting the same 'advice' about coolant leak based on similar symptoms...2000kms after oil and OEM filter swap haven't seen the symptoms recur - not saying they won't, but start with the simple stuff before jumping to extreme conclusions. Hope you figure it out.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, KY
Hey everyone sorry I was on vacation! But I've arrived back and my OEM mini filter that I got from ECS was waiting for me at home. I just did an oil change today and started it up, let it sit for 6 mins to get it to OT.
Then I revved it in neutral a bit, first lower RPM for a while then I revved it high a few times. Let it sit some more to simulate the idling.
I haven't seen the light pop up yet since I changed the new filter, but we will see tomorrow when I actually take it out to drive around a little.
I haven't pressure tested it yet because I want to see if changing from a cheap filter works first. The old cheap filter I pulled out was horrid. It was slightly warped and really dirty after only 2500 miles. I also switched to 0w-40 synthetic oil to see if that does anything. ECS, I checked around the sensor (that I've replaced twice) and there is no oil seepage whatsoever. And no drits under the car at all after sitting in the garage for a week. We will see what results tomorrow brings! If i still get the light tomorrow, I'm gonna grab a pressure tester and do that.
Thanks!
Tyler
Then I revved it in neutral a bit, first lower RPM for a while then I revved it high a few times. Let it sit some more to simulate the idling.
I haven't seen the light pop up yet since I changed the new filter, but we will see tomorrow when I actually take it out to drive around a little.
I haven't pressure tested it yet because I want to see if changing from a cheap filter works first. The old cheap filter I pulled out was horrid. It was slightly warped and really dirty after only 2500 miles. I also switched to 0w-40 synthetic oil to see if that does anything. ECS, I checked around the sensor (that I've replaced twice) and there is no oil seepage whatsoever. And no drits under the car at all after sitting in the garage for a week. We will see what results tomorrow brings! If i still get the light tomorrow, I'm gonna grab a pressure tester and do that.
Thanks!
Tyler
Well, oil change and a new BMW/Mini filter appears to have solved it 
.
If I was to guess - I'd suggest it was an aftermarket filter causing the issue. I pulled 4L of used oil that wasn't 'clean', but it also didn't look horrible by any means. We'll see what happens over the next few weeks and few thousand kilometres....
I'll update again here if it reappears.
.If I was to guess - I'd suggest it was an aftermarket filter causing the issue. I pulled 4L of used oil that wasn't 'clean', but it also didn't look horrible by any means. We'll see what happens over the next few weeks and few thousand kilometres....
I'll update again here if it reappears.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, KY
What makes you think that you have a coolant leak?
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
I was just discussing the possibility of it being something else. Just trying to think about the other options if the road test turns up a failure....but from what I can tell I have no symptoms of a coolant leak. As stated before I put a dry erase Mark where my coolant level was after I got the oil filter housing gasket replaced and it hasn't moved. I don't want to jump the gun and assume the problem is completely gone just yet. 
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 81
Likes: 1
From: Louisville, KY
I was just discussing the possibility of it being something else. Just trying to think about the other options if the road test turns up a failure....but from what I can tell I have no symptoms of a coolant leak. As stated before I put a dry erase Mark where my coolant level was after I got the oil filter housing gasket replaced and it hasn't moved. I don't want to jump the gun and assume the problem is completely gone just yet.
Looks like you need to make another appearance. LOL
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3rd Gear
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 3
but I'll try to stay more on track with what's real and what's not.....my apologiee
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
Are you CERTAIN there's coolant in your oil? I was getting the same 'advice' about coolant leak based on similar symptoms...2000kms after oil and OEM filter swap haven't seen the symptoms recur - not saying they won't, but start with the simple stuff before jumping to extreme conclusions. Hope you figure it out. AND I'm not laughing at the advice yet - just hoping I get the chance to!
How many Kms did u drive after your previous oil change before the light popped up? I would expect the problem to resurface in about the same amount of mileage... Hopefully your good