Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

R50 halfshafts causing clutch engagement vibrations?

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Old May 4, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #1  
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R50 halfshafts causing clutch engagement vibrations?

I replaced our R50's front strut mounts today and while I had the wheel hub assembly hanging down with the strut removed, I noticed that both bellows on the halfshafts had torn at the outboard boot clamps. The right side didn't look as bad as the left, but both had some grease oozing out. The left side had a noticeable streak of sling on the block. I don't know how long it's been like this, but I know it's only a matter of time before they will need replacement. I have a couple of questions.

For starters, we were noticing recently that clutch engagement had started producing a lot of vibration through the cabin. It tends to go away when the car has warmed up. Our clutch is relatively new, so maybe the grease slinging out the halfshafts could contribute to the vibration. Paging ZippyNH...

Also, are there any good aftermarket halfshafts I should check out, or should we just stick to OEM? Apparently OEM is $500 apiece...

EDIT: I just checked ECS, is FEQ is the OEM supplier? They're only $70 apiece.
 

Last edited by sevin; May 4, 2016 at 02:58 PM.
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Old May 4, 2016 | 03:55 PM
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A few thoughts for ya...I'm flattered you think of me as a mini whisperer of sorts...lol..
The FEQ CV joints/half shafts are Chinese junk....comparatively undersized for the mini...thinner and smaller than OEM, they tend to fail pretty rapidly. Look around...the OEMs are good, and deal with a modded car, but several companies offer better than OEM units for a bit less than OEM....so no bargin basement pricing like FEQ units...
Not sure about your vibration... Maybe you have developed a hot spot on the flywheel? It's just a wild added guess, no reason to believe it...just total shot in the dark.....since you replaced the strut mounts, I would suggest a alignment.... Maybe you will get lucky and it will help smooth stuff out.
And just to restate.... FEQ is junk...seen so many threads on them failing, I'm amazed anybody sells them...good warrenty, bad part...oh so tempting price...
Maybe this post will act as a bit of a bump and get you more reads....heck sure somebody has seen something similar.
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 04:14 PM
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Thanks for your thoughts, Zippy! So you don't think the halfshafts would contribute to my problem? It's kind of difficult to explain what the vibration feels like any better. It's generally worse in lower gears. Starting off can sometimes shake the cabin at a lower frequency, whereas shifting into higher gears produces a higher frequency vibration. Like I said, it almost goes away entirely when the car is warmed up.

I must have misread ECS's description of FEQ, I had thought they were OEM. What about OPParts?
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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Maybe I'm getting the FEQ name mixed up...
Sure...You get the vibration at the highest tq..low speed...guess if they a kinda loose from lack of grease and grit, they might give you a felling other then the typical click or thunk.
Was the clamps just a bit loose with a bit of ooze, or were they missing....when I hear "slinging grease" I know a small amount can make a huge mess when slung at speed...
Might be time to practice watchful waiting...monitoring, and researching your options on parts...
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 04:23 PM
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https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-one-week.html

FEQ... 2 broke in one week... On onre car...and info from wmw
More...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...cceptable.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...xles-bust.html
 
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Old May 4, 2016 | 04:48 PM
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Both boots are entirely separated from the clamps, sheared off. I would guess a lot of grease has spilled out by now with them entirely separated.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 07:37 AM
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I'd advise staying away from FEQ. I have one on mine right now and after a day of install it clicks. We've had some luck with them at the old shop I worked at for VW/Audi, but FEQ axles have a really bad reputation, across many different makes. GKN is your OEM supplier axle and the one you should stick with if you do not want to go with Genuine: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0. When it comes to axles, OEM, Genuine, or rebuilds with OEM parts is what I'd stick with as most aftermarket axles tend to cause issues and don't last, causing you to replace them sooner than anticipated. Good luck.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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I don't think his halfshafts are clicking yet, so I think we can get away with just some new outer boots. I'll see about getting some GKN replacements.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 08:26 AM
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If there is no clicking, they're still lubricated, and there is no free play in the joints then you should be able to get away with a reboot kit. I'd recommend doing both inner and outer at the same time. GKN also makes a reboot kit here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item4.
 
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Old May 11, 2016 | 05:59 PM
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Pelican, how involved is the job? I'm going to go ahead and get the outer and inner GKN sets for both our cars. I'd like to do the work myself.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sevin
Pelican, how involved is the job? I'm going to go ahead and get the outer and inner GKN sets for both our cars. I'd like to do the work myself.
Just was helping out an individual with this same thing earlier this week. Check out the thread HERE. There are links to DIY threads and also just good info posted by others in regards to what you'll need to do the job. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
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