Hi All.

My Wife's 2009 Cooper (petrol) had the engine light come on. So I scanned it and got the code P0015 which apparently is "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded.

Having searched the forums and googled it, this could be as simple as the camshaft position sensor. It certainly looks like its cheap enough to replace if only for elimination purposes anyway.

Is this the sensor in question?

TIA

 

Excuse me answering my own question, but this is for the benefit of anyone searching the archives.

On R56 MINI models, the intake (inlet) camshaft sensor is located on the left rear of the cylinder head (green arrow). The exhaust (outlet) camshaft sensor is located at the left front of the cylinder head (red arrow).

Full replacement procedure here.

Credit PelicanParts.com

 

Glad you found our article and it was useful for you and your issue. Hopefully it's the sensor and not a timing issue. Were there any other symptoms besides the P code? Be sure to report back once you replace the sensor and let us know if your issue is resolved.

 

You can try switching the intake and exhaust sensors around to see if the issue follows to the intake sensor, but chances are you are out of time and need to do a timing cassette.

 

Sensor replaced and fault cleared. Code hasn't come back and car idles nice and evenly and the pick up is much better. My wife says its revs easily now! :D

 

It looks like the picture shows 2 sensors to replace. The Pelican website says only one is needed. I have a 2011 Cooper hardtop. I haven't looked under the hood yet, but does anyone know off-hand if I need 1 or 2 sensors? Thanks

 

On N12, N16 (which is your motor), and N18 engines there are two camshaft sensors, intake and exhaust. On N14 engines, there is only an intake camshaft sensor.

Sensors - http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item1

 

Thanks. I just placed my order. Just an FYI... when I was checking out, the part said it was for Cooper S / Cooper S JCW. It was confusing but when I checked the part number it said R56 so it should be the right part.

 

You're welcome. Thank you for your order. I'll be sure to look into that. It's the same part number for both base and S models. If you ever get confused with something like that on our site you can always just shoot me a PM with the last 7 digits of your vin and I can double check fitment for you. Let me know if you need anything else or have any questions during the replacement.

 

Replacement of sensors was super easy. By far the easiest work I've ever performed on this car. Check engine light is gone so I am guessing it was in fact the sensor and not something more complicated and expensive. Thanks!

 

Sadly my fault code has returned a few times now. I clear it but it comes back again? Also this time when I scanned it, I also had a p2414 code. Should I replace the other bank sensor and is there a possibility that the p2414 code was because of the bank sensors?

If it is a lambda sensor how do I know if its the pre or post cat one? Are they the same or different types?

 

So random that you posted this - my check engine light has returned also. It comes on for a day and then goes off the next. It's been coming on and off over the last two weeks and I don't know what the problem is. My code though, is the same original code you had (P0015).

I think I might need that timing cassette thing...

 

I'm not really sure if it ever went away as I was talking with my Father-in-law about how I'd used an OBD scanner on her Mini to identify and clear a fault and she said yes but it didn't work as that light still comes on and goes off!

I've ordered another sensor to replace the other one and see what happens then. I'm wondering about the wisdom of buying non Bosch sensors TBH.

I'll replace both LAMBDA sensors if need be.

I missed nkfry's post about the cassette and just looked up what that is. I sure hope that isn't what it is? Does it affect the Cooper or is it just the Cooper S?

 

I have a regular Cooper. I'm not sure if it's also an issue on the Cooper S. I'm not sure what to do about my check engine light. It's on, then off, then on. It's hard to bring it to the shop b/c chances are it'll be off when I get there...

 

We have done multiple Cooper timing chain kits, many of which have had the timing tensioner come out in 3 pieces, or the top timing guide broken.

You need to have the car professionally diagnosed, as it could be anything from a failed VANOS solenoid, which is an easy fix but about $145 for the solenoid, or you need a timing cassette installed, which will run you anywhere from $750-2500 depending on if you find a qualified indy shop or go to the....Dealer....

Don't replace the lambda sensor, chances are you don't need it and it is quite expensive. If there is actual proof that the sensor is failed then do so, but if you aren't having fuel economy problems, poor running/starting, and the sparkplugs don't "read" stoich, leave it alone.

 

Good info, thanks. I will bring mine in to my local indy shop and see what they say....

 

Thanks nkfry. Its coming up for a service and we have a good local indy (BMW trained) so i'll see what he says.

I've stuck another camshaft sensor in there and went to reset the engine light but noted it had a P2414 code this time. The only fault in its running is, according to my wife, you put your foot down but nothing happens.

I've reset the code and test driven it and it seems fine, but we'll see how it goes...

 

An out of time car or a car in need of a VANOS solenoid will be doggy and slow, you may even have misfires accompanying either of these problems.

 

My wife does mainly short journeys and they are all around town. So I'd be happy to replace that as a service item and if the video below is right it looks easy enough. Car has done 46k, is there a mileage these typically go at?

 

I have 89k on my 2011 Cooper. No symptoms. The check engine light is on but no stuttering, misfiring, loss of power, etc. I will take it to the local shop to see what they can find out.

 

Well we got into the car last night and the ECL came on again! Sigh. So today I took the vanos out. Its one with a gauze on it and it looked clean. I cleaned it and blew it out anyway and refitted it. Checked the code and it was p0015 bank B again! I've swapped the sensors round to see if it comes back on the other on bank A if that's even possible?

The original sensor I bought I've noticed is unbranded, so I wonder if I've bought a cheap useless one. So I'm going to see if the ECL comes back on in the next few days and if so I'll replace the sensor for a Bosch/Mini one and see if that cures it and take it from there. I'll update the thread in a week or so either way.

 

any further info to report I have the same issue so looking forward to what you find out

 

So far all is okay since I blew the vanos out and swapped the sensors over? I'll report back if anything changes. I rather pessimistically expect it to, lol!

 

It's been our experience that cleaning the solenoids only works for so long and you end up with the same problem, good news is that the solenoid has been revised.

 

Interesting. So this new smooth running is probably down to my cleaning the vanos? Happy to buy a new one if that's the case. Be nice to see an end to this. I'll wait until it starts again and then replace it. Thanks for the info.

Out of interest, does the vanos not throw up its own code?