VANOS solenoid failure can give you can advanced/retarded codes, timing codes, VANOS actuation codes, VANOS stuck codes, all of which require a dealer level scan tool to read them.

 

A quick update. The EML did come on a couple of times but also went off as well. Its now come on and stayed on but the car is still running well and in fact has never run better since i cleaned out the Vanos. I'll be replacing it shortly and will see if my service guy picks up on anything when it goes in for a service.

Incidentally, one or two people have told me a low oil level can cause the vanos to play up?? No idea if there is any truth to that, as our oil level is fine, but thought i'd put it out there.

 

An update. The CEL came on and stayed on. Got some new codes now!

 

Since the VANOS system functions by using pressurized oil to advance/retard timing yes, low oil can cause problems.

The codes you just pulled don't help to diagnose the problem, you need a quality scan tool to read the manufacture codes.

 

nkfry was right on for me. After replacing the two cam chain sensors and resetting the CEL, the light returned after a month and kept coming on and off intermittently. I finally took it to my local indy shop and they found the following:

2845- VANOS, EXHAUST, ACTUATOR MOVEMENT
275F- FUEL LEVEL SENSOR
272F- FUEL TANK VENTILATION SYSTEM AND PURGE, MICRO-LEAK

They recommended just replacing the VANOS, resetting the system, and seeing if the micro-leak code goes away since there was only one occurrence of a micro-leak.

As for the fuel level, I think it's been going bad as when I fill up, the fuel indicator on the dash will read 3/4 full until I drive around for 30 minutes or so (and then it shows the tank is full). I'm not sure where the fuel level sensor is located, but it's probably something I would change myself.

The shop quoted me $250 for parts/labor on the VANOS replacement and that seemed fair so I have an appointment next week to drop it off. I'll update this thread if anyone is interested.

 

Yes, keep us posted please.

I changed my cheap non branded sensor for a Bosch one and the car is currently running well - for now! I think i'm going to change the Vanos for the hell of it. Might even change the pre cat 02 sensor as well! Seems they all require changing at some point and often around the 50k mark from what i've been reading. My wife loves her car but its getting a bit old all this engine lights and lumpy running. I'd like her to just get in the car and drive it without having to keep telling what its doing wrong all the time lol!

 

Well it finally broke! The eml/cel light came on and wouldn't reset and i was getting the p2195 code. As I was driving it it lost power dramatically and was really lumpy on idle. I decided to put a new o2 sensor in to see if that changed anything and it does seem to be running normally now, how long for is anyone guess though, lol.

No idea what a good or bad o2 sensor looks like but this is what came out.

 

Sorry to hear. Hopefully it's fixed now.

As for mine, the VANOS replacement looks to have done the trick. No CEL or any other problems for that matter.

 

Replacing the front VANOS solenoid also seems to have fixed my intermittent P0015 as well (knock on wood).

The one I took out didn't look dirty. However, it was a different design from the new one, which has additional metal screening. The part is apparently on like it's third design revision, which is kind of a red flag.

 

The N18 engine has 2 cam position sensors, as well as 2 VVT solenoids (if it comes to that). This is usually your countryman model. You standard Mini Cooper S would have 2 cam position sensors and 1 VVT solenoid.