Harbor freight sells a nice little oil separator that's pretty easy to plumb into the lines and makes it super easy to monitor oil consumption while at the same time prevents a lot from going through the motor.

 

got any pictures of this setup?

 

I actually found mine at Princess Auto (Canada's Harbor Freight) and plumed it into the vent line with clear tubing but the car didn't vent any oil so I'm going back to stock. My installation was just a temporary affair to see if eliminating the PCV would stop the smoking and it didn't so now I know that the PCV isn't the source of my issue. I didn't take any pictures which is unusual for me.

 

Agreed.

 

None actually made up and working but a member on here made one up using one from harbor freight. He said he does actually get oil collecting in it. I googled oil separators harbor freight and one popped up that had a blue anodized top. It's small enough to mount right on the firewall. If your looking to try to cure or help the oil consumption through the intake, either the separator idea or a totally separate vacuum pump system are your best ways to accomplish it. Other than than, it is what it is with these card. It's just the way they are designed. You just gotta do the walnut she'll blasting every "X" amount of time.

 

well I have the n18 did the walnut shell at 30 k and it really didn't look bad at all

 

The N18 engines doesn't get all that bad on carbon build-up on the intake valves, you could go 100,000 miles and it wouldn't look nearly as bad as an N14 engine.

 

ya I know it's nice I get to worry about other things instead

 

Just curious, what did you use to clean all that carbon gunk off?

 

Are you asking about how I cleaned the turbo or how the other posters cleaned their intake valves?

 

The turbo, especially the impeller wheel. Thanks.

 

The internals and the compressor wheel cleaned up easy with varsol and a spot of Spray 9. The heat shield which was heavily carboned up was a bit tougher. I scraped off some and used sand paper to remove the remainder of the carbon off of it. The turbine wheel had to be hand scraped one blade at a time using a dental instrument to peel away the carbon little by little. I then soaked it in CLR cleaner and used some scotch brite pads to remove the rest. It was tedious and I'm sure a walnut shell or media blaster would have been a better tool but I don't have access to one so I did the best I could.

 

Since the parts are small probably pick up a portable sprayer at good ol harbor freight for a decent price I mean I know your done already but just an idea

 

I got a 70dlls valve cover from Ebay. Works great so far at 10k miles

 

Just did this with this guys instructions and his kit. Step by step is spot on. Hot side oil seal was blown and probably triggered the 2885 Boost Deviation code. Among other things such as replacing all the vacuum lines. Did not take the whole turbo out. Just the cartridge. Super easy. Just time consuming. Worth the 50dlls investment if you have a 2885 code. Also, do the vacuum lines.