Was removing my rear struts yesterday in an attempt to replace the upper strut mounts. My passenger side lower strut mounting bolt snapped. Now I've got the threaded portion still in the trailing arm. So I've got a few questions...

Has this happened to anyone else?

What size is the bolt I'll need to replace? Wondering the specs on this so I can get a replacement. Also, possibly a corresponding nut.

If the bolt can't be drilled out, I might use a cutoff tool and remove the small welded on nut from the trailing arm and utilize a regular nut to secure the strut. The sleeve on the strut will still engage the trailing arm, holding the load. This shouldn't be an issue. Any thoughts on this? Seems the best option to avoid needing a new trailing arm.

 

It's 14x1.5 mm thread, 87 mm long.
Here's one:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/33506773205/ES58115
Your plan B should work ok, but I'd use locktite on the regular nut for extra insurance.

 

It's all set. With some heat, it came out. Dodged a bullet on that one.

 

I think there was a recall long ago on some of the 1st gen rear lower shock bolts.
Maybe this is why.

 

Here it is:
Was yours a late 2002 model?
On the other hand, these bolts seize in there not infrequently after many years in service.

The BMW Group has informed the NHTSA that it will be proceeding with a customer notification to recall certain Cooper and Cooper S vehicles. The recall affects approximately 5100 vehicles which were produced between 9/25/2002 and 11/14/2002. The implementation of the recall will be conducted as soon as the repair procedures are finalized (approximately 2 weeks). At that time, a Service Information bulletin will be published and official customer notification letters will be mailed. The repair will consist of replacing both rear lower strut mounting bolts.

In the meantime, we have prepared the following Q&A to help address any customer concerns:

Q1. Which models are affected by this recall?

Affected models are 2003 Model Year MINI Cooper and Cooper S vehicles produced between September 25th, 2002 and November 14th, 2002. (The production date can be read on the certification label which is located on the inside of the door pillar on the driver’s side.)

Q2. Why are other vehicles not affected?

The vehicle production date range was established to be between September 25th, 2002 and November 14th, 2002. Therefore, vehicles produced outside of this date range are not affected.

Q3. How many vehicles are affected?

Approximately 5,100 vehicles in the US are affected.

Q4. What failure might possibly occur?

In very rare occasions due to a production problem with the screw that connects the rear struts to the chassis, the head (top) of the screw securing this connection may break. The remaining portion of the screw (stud, or shaft) will still hold the strut in place. However, if left unattended over a longer period of time, and depending on driving conditions, the stud/shaft may break.

Q5. What can happen?

If the screw stud/shaft also broke, the chassis would lean directly on the tire, diminishing the driver's ability to control the vehicle. Depending upon traffic conditions and the driver’s reactions, this could lead to a crash.

Q6. How does the driver become aware of the problem?

The driver’s ability to control the vehicle will be reduced.

Q7. What corrective measures will be taken?

The lower screw connection of the rear struts will be replaced.

Q8. How did MINI become aware of the problem?

MINI became aware of the problem through its own quality control processes.

Q9. Is MINI aware of any accidents or injuries associated with the recall?

No.

Q10. Can customers continue to drive their vehicles?

Yes, but we recommend that affected customers, who will receive a letter asking them to schedule an appointment with their authorized MINI dealer, do so as soon as possible.

If you experience this problem on the road, you should pull over carefully as soon as possible to a safe location and away from traffic. Do not continue to drive your vehicle. Contact MINI Roadside Assistance at 1-866-646-4772 immediately to have your vehicle brought to the nearest MINI dealer.

Q11. How will customers be informed of the recall?

Affected customers will receive a letter asking them to schedule an appointment with their authorized MINI dealer.

Q12. How will the recall be performed?

Affected customers who make an appointment will have the rear strut connection replaced.

Q13. How long will the repair take?

The replacement of the rear strut connection should take about ½ hour. However, additional time may be required depending upon your MINI dealer’s scheduling and processing.

Q14. How many vehicles have experienced this problem?

We have not received any reports pertaining to this issue.

Q15. When will I receive my owner notification letter?

Mailings will be conducted in March 2003.

Q16. Do I have to wait for my recall letter in order to have my recall performed?

Yes. MINI is in the process of implementing the recall campaign to ensure that the necessary parts are at the MINI dealers prior to sending out the owner notification letters.

 

+1 thats the one, thanks for the post cristo and the old NHTSA info.

 

Yeah mine is a 2002. Luckily it's all fixed and she's back on the street.

 

^Glad you got it fixed^. For those who are planning to remove the rear struts on early cars, one of the problems is that the end of the bolt sits proud of the trailing arm and tends to rust and collect road grime. When you try to remove the bolt, it pulls those imperfections into the threads of the trailing arm and destroys the threads or breaks the bolt. If your threads are weakened, you can actually just get a longer bolt, carefully thread it in, and put a nut on the back side of the trailing arm--a much less expensive alternative to replacing the trailing arm.

 

Awesome

Keep the 2002 going. Seen one with 350K+ in silk green.

 

Ah, I remember back when mine was new (March 2003 British Racing Green)
and Silk Green had just been discontinued with Velvet Red soon to follow.

 

I'm trying my hardest to keep her going. I'm encountering a lot of issues from the previous owner. But I'm working through them. Mine is chili red with 119k miles.

 

Build date: 6/03 What's with these cars?

 

We have the rear lower hex bolt HERE and the washer HERE if needed.

 

Parts already listed above.

 

I doubt I'm going to be able to get the regular bolt back in there. I put the torch on it and aside from burning my finger, accomplished nothing. If I can't drill it out I'll have to cut it as the OP suggested. What pisses me off more is the dealership hasn't even called me back.

 

Thank you guys though.

 

Try heating the metal around it several times and spray lubricant in between the bolt and metal while it's hot. Make sure to not heat the bolt. Heating the bolt itself will expand it making it more difficult to get out. If that doesn't work, heat the metal around the bolt, spray the bolt with freon from a can and then try to walk it out. (Have done this before successfully). You can also try to tighten it before loosening it to try to get it moving. Sometimes there is corrosion and stuff that wont let it go backwards, but will allow it to go forward. Do you have any air tools?

 

I have air tools, yes. Am just all over the place today with appointments. The bolt moved a very small bit in each direction but wouldn't move anymore. I was heating the whole piece though. I'll focus on the outside. I've never heard of using freon. Interesting.

This happened Monday morning with a lugnut that I over tightened by hand. I got lucky with that one as it came out with a pair of pliers. Worst case I'll screw around with the car tonight. Thank you though for the tips.