I stopped driving the MINI a few months ago. <br />
Here is a picture of the oil puddle that was formed. <br />
The reason it is two areas is because I rolled it back a month or so ago to hopefully keep the tires from having flat spots.<br />
Any idea what would be leaking from the picture?

 

Much easier to diagnose and oil leak from the stains/tracks on the car.

 

Sweet geezzus!

The VOLUME of fluid is what gets me (when it was stored!), was the engine cycled at any point (putting pressure back onto the leaks)?

If I'm reading correctly, it sounds like there are two separate spills involved in that image (and that the car was rolled back towards the top of the image). Without knowing the location of the car relative to the spills and angle of the floor, it's hard to say if it's from the front, back or everywhere on the engine - you'll have to get underneath.

With that much leaking, you'll have to clean the engine and then keep an eye out for where it comes from.


Lots of possibilities:

• Valve Cover (unlikely it with that much volume when stored)
• Oil Pan gasket (possible with that distribution)
• Rear Main Seal (probable but with that volume - be careful of destroying your clutch)
• Crank Position Sensor (likely, but not to that extent)
• Bedplate seal (really doubt that it's this one, but I've seen & documented it)

 

The oil was very thick and kind of gummy on the floor.

 

Wow. I have nothing to help as I have a 2nd gen. I thought my oil leak was bad, but now I don't feel so bad. Hope you can get it figured out.

 

It is the CHF11S power steering fluid. The resovoir is empty. I believe there is a recall on this isn't there?

 

Not on the lines, just the pump and fan if it fails up to early 2005 model year. Check your production date.

The lines we have here, check and inspect the lines.

Everything is linked in the thread below with parts and locations.

Then if not we have linked the parts in this thread. Most likely its just the lines

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html










And the lines.

P/S lines

http://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_R50_R52_r53_Cooper_Base_S_JCW_PS_Line_repair_ kit_2002_2003_2004_2005_2006_2007_2008/




Here is the DIY thread with pics.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hose-pics.html




Thanks

 

Thanks for all the info. Mine is a 2003 MCS.
So if I take it in for this problem they will not replace any of these parts for free except the pump and fan?

 

I haven't had time to do any work on it yet.
What do you think from these pictures?

 

Clean the outside of the reservoir off and make sure you don't over fill it, CHF 11s , looks like overflow or the seal on the cap is bad to have that much, I can only see the top of the one line and it looks to have minimal seepage. Its the lines towards the bottom at the crimp connections and band clamps. Also when you clean the container and cap off don't get any junk in the reservoir , keep things clean. Then see what you find at the top. But most likely its the bottom lines.

 

I guess there's no way for me to check to see if the pump is good until I replace those lines?

 

The pump will work , but has to have enough fluid. You have to determine A: is it the lines and is it leaking enough not to give the pump the CHF fluid. I would get the lines fixed and pinpoint it is the lines. Put it on a rack and inspect , use those linked pics on the DIY lines to determine if its both , on or another, most people replace both in that kit at the same time. If the pump fluid is low you will hear it ( growling ) and the steering will be on and off. Working , then not, then working. That's a bunch of fluid leaking. I hope the pump itself is not leaking.

 

I ordered your kit and am finally getting around to replacing these lines but I don't see any info on how much to tighten the banjo bolt and how much to squeeze the hose clamps.
and how can I reach the banjo bolt? take off the driver's side wheel and the plastic in the wheel well?

 

Crimp those hose clamps, crimp them to the same amount as the old ones, I did mine a hair tighter. And the banjo is 30 ft. lbs .

 

What's the easiest way to access the banjo bolt?

 

Driver side wheel well or from the back of the rear lower sub-frame when on the lift.

Good luck.

 

Those factory crimp clamps are garbage, I would recommend replacing them with #10 hose clamps from any auto store. Those crimp style clamps will leak over time, same as your factory ones did. Whenever we have a car come into the shop that hasn't had those clamps replaced we take the time to do it.