Just replaced power steering fluid return hose (pics)
#1
Just replaced power steering fluid return hose (pics)
Thanks to the members, I was able to replace the power steering fluid return hose on my 2006 S. The fluid return hose appeared to be dripping onto the power steering pump which then bled onto the garage floor.
It took 5 hours start-to-finish (because I took my time and had to make two runs to find the right sized socket (22mm), swivel adapter, and extension bar to access and remove the bolt).
The replacement hose was $68 at Pelican Parts. The fluid was $22. The crush washers they sent me were the wrong part (too small) so I was forced to re-use the existing ones. Will keep an eye on it and if they leak, I'll buy the correct size (which means draining the PS fluid again (messy and pricey).
Here are some pics of what I saw.
It took 5 hours start-to-finish (because I took my time and had to make two runs to find the right sized socket (22mm), swivel adapter, and extension bar to access and remove the bolt).
The replacement hose was $68 at Pelican Parts. The fluid was $22. The crush washers they sent me were the wrong part (too small) so I was forced to re-use the existing ones. Will keep an eye on it and if they leak, I'll buy the correct size (which means draining the PS fluid again (messy and pricey).
Here are some pics of what I saw.
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morhaven (09-23-2017)
#3
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My 06 R53 started leaking at 35,000++ miles. A new clamp worked until 40k miles. After that, it wouldn't stop even with retighttening and new clamps. At first it was just the return hose but the "supply hose" also leaked after thousand plus miles.
So I had to replace both on mine. And +1 on the very detailed and clear pictures!!!
So I had to replace both on mine. And +1 on the very detailed and clear pictures!!!
#11
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I've been told that just clamps and fluid is a temporary fix. Your hoses are leaking from years and years of high pressure so the rubber will stretch and expand. Once they've expanded they won't go back so you gotta go with new hoses... Eventually.
#16
#18
+1 Great write up above. Here is a diagrams with hoses and corresponding parts to help. Sometimes just replacing the clamps is a temp fix like mentioned above.
Here is the full kit with all the line, if you need one line , its linked below.
P/S Line Repair Kit 32416781744 KT
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32416754498/
#1
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32416754498/
Clamps top and bottom #2
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32111131345/
&
#11
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32416781744/
Here is the top clamp: for #11
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/16121180242/
Here is also the MINI PS fluid CHF 11S and a pic of the container.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/83290429576/
Thanks hope that helps in addition to the pictures above.
*** New Reservoir options as upgrades!!**
We have an upgraded reservoir unit. You can get that CHF11S sticker and put it on the turner unit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...ni/c-steering/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...212122171~oem/
Here is the full kit with all the line, if you need one line , its linked below.
P/S Line Repair Kit 32416781744 KT
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32416754498/
#1
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32416754498/
Clamps top and bottom #2
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32111131345/
&
#11
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/32416781744/
Here is the top clamp: for #11
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/16121180242/
Here is also the MINI PS fluid CHF 11S and a pic of the container.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/83290429576/
Thanks hope that helps in addition to the pictures above.
*** New Reservoir options as upgrades!!**
We have an upgraded reservoir unit. You can get that CHF11S sticker and put it on the turner unit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-turner-m...ni/c-steering/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...212122171~oem/
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 06-20-2023 at 08:35 AM.
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MINIGOGO (08-05-2022)
#20
There is an internal restrictor in the top end of the return hose
I can't find the thread but one NAMer had asked about the second clamp in the return hose just below the reservoir and usually hidden inside the corrugated heat shield sleeve.
I'm in process of replacing the two reservoir hoses although I'm pretty sure it's the return hose, based on where this car leaks and images in this thread and elsewhere in NAM showing a similar mess.
The second clamp holds and seals what appears to be a restrictor (metal tube with a small diameter hole through it) in place. If you remove and cut the hose it is easily visible. I'm assuming (perhaps wrongly) it isn't an NRV based on the flow arrows, so I'll stick with the word "restrictor" - if anyone knows, please correct me! I haven't actually carefully inspected or tested it to see how it behaves, as I took a break from working on this (three days now
This means we might replace the supply (front) hose easily with essentially any chunk of suitable and quality hose using mini (i.e., narrow-band screw type) hose clamps, or ear (Oetiker) clamps, if you have a kit and tool, as it is non-pressurized.
However the return line does have the swaged transition from hose to hard pipe, and even just a restrictor means the hose and hard line section BELOW the restrictor will, when the pump is running, be somewhat more pressurized than the essentially atmospheric little portion (a few cms) between the restrictor and the reservoir nipple.
Sooo... I'm going to attempt to replace the hose part of the return line by cutting off the swage, cleaning up the hard pipe end and using one or more ear clips to fasten the new hose to the hard pipe, and an ear clip to secure the restrictor in the top. I haven't looked at yet to see if it's got a direction, so I left it in the hose end for now.
Anyway, that explained to me at least why there was that high-pressure-capable swaged connection between hose and hard line in the return line, rather than another pretty SS hose clamp....
If this works OK, cost of hoses (different sizes) and clips is <$20, reusing the restrictor and heat shield sleeves.
Any nay say comments appreciated (even "No you idiot, it'll blow that spendy fluid all over the place the first time you fire it up!").
I'll just get my local shop to rebuild it if there is prior experience this would be a very clever, cheap, but utterly useless approach.
Cheers
Barry
I'm in process of replacing the two reservoir hoses although I'm pretty sure it's the return hose, based on where this car leaks and images in this thread and elsewhere in NAM showing a similar mess.
The second clamp holds and seals what appears to be a restrictor (metal tube with a small diameter hole through it) in place. If you remove and cut the hose it is easily visible. I'm assuming (perhaps wrongly) it isn't an NRV based on the flow arrows, so I'll stick with the word "restrictor" - if anyone knows, please correct me! I haven't actually carefully inspected or tested it to see how it behaves, as I took a break from working on this (three days now
This means we might replace the supply (front) hose easily with essentially any chunk of suitable and quality hose using mini (i.e., narrow-band screw type) hose clamps, or ear (Oetiker) clamps, if you have a kit and tool, as it is non-pressurized.
However the return line does have the swaged transition from hose to hard pipe, and even just a restrictor means the hose and hard line section BELOW the restrictor will, when the pump is running, be somewhat more pressurized than the essentially atmospheric little portion (a few cms) between the restrictor and the reservoir nipple.
Sooo... I'm going to attempt to replace the hose part of the return line by cutting off the swage, cleaning up the hard pipe end and using one or more ear clips to fasten the new hose to the hard pipe, and an ear clip to secure the restrictor in the top. I haven't looked at yet to see if it's got a direction, so I left it in the hose end for now.
Anyway, that explained to me at least why there was that high-pressure-capable swaged connection between hose and hard line in the return line, rather than another pretty SS hose clamp....
If this works OK, cost of hoses (different sizes) and clips is <$20, reusing the restrictor and heat shield sleeves.
Any nay say comments appreciated (even "No you idiot, it'll blow that spendy fluid all over the place the first time you fire it up!").
I'll just get my local shop to rebuild it if there is prior experience this would be a very clever, cheap, but utterly useless approach.
Cheers
Barry
#21
I can't find the thread but one NAMer had asked about the second clamp in the return hose just below the reservoir and usually hidden inside the corrugated heat shield sleeve.
I'm in process of replacing the two reservoir hoses although I'm pretty sure it's the return hose, based on where this car leaks and images in this thread and elsewhere in NAM showing a similar mess.
The second clamp holds and seals what appears to be a restrictor (metal tube with a small diameter hole through it) in place. If you remove and cut the hose it is easily visible. I'm assuming (perhaps wrongly) it isn't an NRV based on the flow arrows, so I'll stick with the word "restrictor" - if anyone knows, please correct me! I haven't actually carefully inspected or tested it to see how it behaves, as I took a break from working on this (three days now
This means we might replace the supply (front) hose easily with essentially any chunk of suitable and quality hose using mini (i.e., narrow-band screw type) hose clamps, or ear (Oetiker) clamps, if you have a kit and tool, as it is non-pressurized.
However the return line does have the swaged transition from hose to hard pipe, and even just a restrictor means the hose and hard line section BELOW the restrictor will, when the pump is running, be somewhat more pressurized than the essentially atmospheric little portion (a few cms) between the restrictor and the reservoir nipple.
Sooo... I'm going to attempt to replace the hose part of the return line by cutting off the swage, cleaning up the hard pipe end and using one or more ear clips to fasten the new hose to the hard pipe, and an ear clip to secure the restrictor in the top. I haven't looked at yet to see if it's got a direction, so I left it in the hose end for now.
Anyway, that explained to me at least why there was that high-pressure-capable swaged connection between hose and hard line in the return line, rather than another pretty SS hose clamp....
If this works OK, cost of hoses (different sizes) and clips is <$20, reusing the restrictor and heat shield sleeves.
Any nay say comments appreciated (even "No you idiot, it'll blow that spendy fluid all over the place the first time you fire it up!").
I'll just get my local shop to rebuild it if there is prior experience this would be a very clever, cheap, but utterly useless approach.
Cheers
Barry
I'm in process of replacing the two reservoir hoses although I'm pretty sure it's the return hose, based on where this car leaks and images in this thread and elsewhere in NAM showing a similar mess.
The second clamp holds and seals what appears to be a restrictor (metal tube with a small diameter hole through it) in place. If you remove and cut the hose it is easily visible. I'm assuming (perhaps wrongly) it isn't an NRV based on the flow arrows, so I'll stick with the word "restrictor" - if anyone knows, please correct me! I haven't actually carefully inspected or tested it to see how it behaves, as I took a break from working on this (three days now
This means we might replace the supply (front) hose easily with essentially any chunk of suitable and quality hose using mini (i.e., narrow-band screw type) hose clamps, or ear (Oetiker) clamps, if you have a kit and tool, as it is non-pressurized.
However the return line does have the swaged transition from hose to hard pipe, and even just a restrictor means the hose and hard line section BELOW the restrictor will, when the pump is running, be somewhat more pressurized than the essentially atmospheric little portion (a few cms) between the restrictor and the reservoir nipple.
Sooo... I'm going to attempt to replace the hose part of the return line by cutting off the swage, cleaning up the hard pipe end and using one or more ear clips to fasten the new hose to the hard pipe, and an ear clip to secure the restrictor in the top. I haven't looked at yet to see if it's got a direction, so I left it in the hose end for now.
Anyway, that explained to me at least why there was that high-pressure-capable swaged connection between hose and hard line in the return line, rather than another pretty SS hose clamp....
If this works OK, cost of hoses (different sizes) and clips is <$20, reusing the restrictor and heat shield sleeves.
Any nay say comments appreciated (even "No you idiot, it'll blow that spendy fluid all over the place the first time you fire it up!").
I'll just get my local shop to rebuild it if there is prior experience this would be a very clever, cheap, but utterly useless approach.
Cheers
Barry
#22
That's great news!!! Much appreciated. I'll proceed merrily then, if such a thing is possible in that awkward space (and I thought my old Porsche was a pain); would have used your type of reinforced line but my local Aeroquip dealer didn't have any in stock that day... and seeing as it isn't my car (xGF's) and this has been going down the list on all the stuff the PO before her didn't fix that R53's I have now learned (thanks NAM!) are known for (motor mount, LCA bushings (put in the usual suspect's pollies), repaired a power door lock motor, steering hoses, cracked exhaust at pre-cat, >70mph window shriek police , and a bunch of minor PO & kids torn-up neglect stuff, I'm not going to lose any sleep over it... now if it were my Mini...
#23
This was always a problem on the E46 BMWs too. Looks to be the exact same PS reservoir.
It was really just the style of clamp that seemed to be the culprit. I replaced both of the OEM style clamps with simple wide screw type ones and it fixed the problem.
I have my sub frame out right now for a clutch replacement so I'm going to replace those clamps at the same time, along with the silly clamps they used on the intake tubes.
It was really just the style of clamp that seemed to be the culprit. I replaced both of the OEM style clamps with simple wide screw type ones and it fixed the problem.
I have my sub frame out right now for a clutch replacement so I'm going to replace those clamps at the same time, along with the silly clamps they used on the intake tubes.