So the car is an 03 with a NEW: supercharger, sc bypass valve, throttle body, plastic intake tube, map, tmap, tensioner, 17% pulley, alternator, belt, water pump, fuel filter, all gaskets for the prev stated components.

The car simply will not maintain idle rpms. If I hold my foot on the pedal at about 4% tps then it will idle. Remove foot and the engine dies.

I have sprayed starter fluid over every single joint in the system and can't find a single air leak. I have also tested the fpr for internal leaks and found none. Also found that it is maintaining proper pressure at idle. Can't test it running down the road.

I gave up after all of this and took it to the stealer ship (free power steering fix) and they gave up and told me I have too many aftermarket parts and they can't fix it. If anything they recommend a new ECM for 1600 and won't refund my $ when it doesn't fix it.

The car has a cai, colder NGK plugs, alta IC, Silicone intake boot, unichip.

So does anyone have any ideas? I'm at a loss other than drilling a hole in the throttle blade to pass some more air so it will idle.

 

try it without the uni chip

 

I have, no difference. I meant to post that. I also tried both setting in the unichip.


I would like to upgrade to JCW injectors and programming but I want it to run right before i do anything else to it.

 

well it seems like its running too rich at idle, wether its from the ECU or from the throttle body, im not sure what the throttle body looks like, but does the butterfly fully close? or does it actually have a tiny gap?

 

Throttle body is brand new. It does what a drive by wire TB should on a car with no IAC valve. The tb controls the idle. I can't say what's it's doing at idle as I can't see it but suffice it to say it opens and closes bc except for the idle the car runs and drives perfectly. Fantastic shall I say.

When tying to idle the car does not puff black smoke and the plugs indicate that. They are a nice clean color. As does the o2 voltage and mixture indicate correctly.

 

No one has any ideas? This is surprising.

 

I'd give www.waymotorworks.com a call or an email.

 

Do you still have the original coil pack and wires? I would try the original wires at least so rule that out, maybe it has nothing to do with it but worth a try.

 

What happened to the car that made it necessary to replace all of those components? Crash? Fire?

Or did you start replacing all of that stuff after you started having problems? Did the idle issue just pop up overnight, or after some work was done on the car?

 

When u replaced all of those components did u do the reset procedures using the trip meter button

 

I did replace the wires about a year ago when the stock ones began to die.

 

The car has needed the sc to be rebuilt for about a year. Began to lose boost at wot and was beginning to rattle.
The issue simply showed up one day out of the blue Before I replaced anything.

I kept chasing ghosts with codes trying to nail down each one as they popped up. Ie map and Tmap. Bypass valve was weak so I threw a new one on. The last item was the tb bc it was the last thing in the induction system that wasn't new and I knew that it is the component that controls the idle and that was a though $500 to swallow knowing that there was a 5% chance it would fix it.

 

I have not done that in a while. Can you describe it? I did it about 4 oil changes ago I think.

I did the hard reset or so I thought. That's where you turn on the flashers and then disconnect the battery for 5 min. It did nothing as well.

 

Sounds fuel related to me.....

Where did you purchase this part from? 13541503358 THROTTLE HOUSING ASSY

New/used ? Aftermarket ?

Make sure vac lines are on solid.

 

The tb was bought from out motoring. It was NIB from mini. All vac lines are on. It would actually help if the vac lines were off, maybe it would pass enough air to idle.

My next idea is to take the old tb I removed from the car and drill a bypass hole in the tb blade to help it get more air at idle.

 

I'm talking about when u put key in ignition press and hold the trip meter them turn key but don't start car tap through tests till u get to 21 then reset pops up and tap trip meter once more gauges all flicker and buzz and flash start car

 

When u unhook battery car still holds power for at least ten minutes sometimes more because of airbags system never heard of resetting by unhooking battery when I changed out my supercharger I had battery unhooked for a week and still had to do the trip meter button reset method

 

If u didn't do those procedures after all the work u did your fuel air mix is all jacked up your car is still thinking it is set up the way it was prior to the upgrades and doesn't know what to do with the increased air flow so it's dumping gas like crazy or starving it

 

I will try that when i get home. I've put thousands of miles on the car since the problem started so I woulda thought the self leaning would have nailed it by now but I'll try it. I'll try anything at this point. I've even disconnected the ecm from the harness and set it on the table for a few days.

 

Well gents I finally solved my issues. Turns out that a nameless mini dealer had sold me the wrong map sensor and after all this time I had the wrong sensor.
New correct map sensor installed and she is back running wonderfully.

Just remember there are 2 different sensors with 2 different part numbers.

The previous dealer had sold me 2 of the same sensors.

 

Not sure WHY you would want to keep them nameless....all the parts diagrams show 2 different parts....the cold side is used on the r50 and the r53....the hot side is a r53 only part, and looks the same, but as you found, car will not run if they are swapped....
Both are actually t-maps, but the temp function is only used on the hotside r53 t-map, the r50 one, the unit works as a map only (that bundle has 3 wires, not 4, one pin not used)...
congrats on getting the car running right! Just thought I would post the extra info to help anybody that runs into your situation!! Good work finding it!!

 

Yeah I have 2 dealers that supply my parts. It's been so long I can't remember which one sold me the wrong parts and neither will admit they did it. Funny thing is I even left it at my local mini dealer for a month to have the power steering recall done and they couldn't figure it our either. Told me good luck and to call them if I figured it out.