Quick run down of what happened:

3 weeks ago car got into a moderate accident, front end damage. Thought damage was purely cosmetic and kept driving the car. Turned out radiator got cracked, coolant leaked out, engine got hot and shut itself down when driving on a street. After engine cooled off, started car again, ran fine, i.e. no odd sounds or funky smoke from the exhaust indicative of internal damage (was only few blocks away from home). Car had a CEL then but I figured it was related to forced shut down so I did not read the codes.

Car spent 3 weeks in body shop, picked it up, took on freeway, noticed engine felt sluggish, acceleration dull, got CEL. Took car to repair shop right away, changed oil just in case, read codes. DME shows:

1. 2845 - VANOS, exhaust, actuator movement
2. 288D - Exhaust camshaft to crankshaft correlation
3. 283D - VANOS, exhaust, adaptation stop

Also, when spinning engine above 4K RPM or so, I hear some kind of metallic rustle from the engine (happens only when engine exhibits other symptoms described above). Also, engine cranks for about 3 seconds before it starts when cold, starts fine once warms up. When cold, engine seems to run fine, but once it warms up that's when it becomes sluggish and throws the codes.

My hunch VANOS system got messed up and malfunctions, hence poor driving dynamics. Question is, what exactly got messed up.

Without really knowing where to start, I pulled both VANOS actuators to see if they are clogged up, they look fine (see pic). Wanted to swap them places and see if anything changes, but two units are different so I want to make sure first they are interchangeable.

The DIS I ran on my car lists 4 possible causes:

1. Incorrect VANOS adaptation
2. Incorrect timing
3. Exhaust VANOS solenoid valve defective
4. Exhaust VANOS adjustment unit defective

Any advice much appreciated!

 

Given the weak timing chain set, along with the noise.. I'd say the heat damaged part of the plastic tensioner guides. I'd start there since it all points to the timing issue.

 

Thanks for sharing the thoughts. The noise I have is different than the infamous chain rattle, like in this video.

http://www.promini.com/technical/coo...ath_rattle.php

But I will get a stethoscope and will give it a listen. I suspect as well something happened to timing. Researching right now how to troubleshoot and reset timing.

 

The photo you provided shows Vanos Solenoids and they are correct.

The intake solenoid valve or solve for both intake and exhaust are identical in part numbers. Swapping them can help to diag an issue.

In your case it would appear your MINI has both an older and newer updated solenoid, so at some point your MINI recently had one replaced.

Replacing them in that manner is completely acceptable.

The newer one has no "windows" to it. ( right )

 

Not having time, tools, or experience to diagnose this further, I gave car to EuroMeccanica in Mt Vernon, NY to work on. They pulled the valve cover and discovered the timing is off -marks do not line up. They will disassemble the engine some more to inspect for physical damage.

 

Just got a call from the shop that car is repaired. Cause: timing off; fractured and in pieces chain guides, with some sitting in oil pan. Most likely caused by engine overheating. I guess it could have been worse.

 

Sounds more like a "classic" timing chain tensioner failure. You might see what MINI has to say about reimbursement. I know it's a Justa, but that's remarkably similar to what has been breaking in the S cars that have the service bulletin...

 

Probably the top guide fractured. Lack of lubrication from low levels of oil produces heat and friction and wear on the guides especially the top. The additional slack in the chain allows it to slap the guides, and enough slack eventually creates a situation where it will jump time.

Not common with JAC.


If they end up doing that job, they will need some specialty tools available from some of our vendors.

 

Ah, sorry to hear that.

 

I noticed you had this trouble at the beginning of the year. We have almost the identical same trouble. I have a R56 n12. My top guide rail broke after she was boosted at the body shop. I had mine in for new paint by an independent person. Had the Vanos Exhaust Adaption Stop code. Switched solenoids, test drove with the code reader. MINI sounded labored then shut down. Fan came on even after she shut off. I'm currently in the garage waiting for parts. Hope you solved your problem.

 

I was wondering what brand scanner you used? I also have the same code (2845) and was going to sway both actuators, where are they located?? Is solenoid and actuator the same thing? Thanks!!!

 

The n12 actually has quite a lot of issues with the chain tensioner collapsing, yet there was never a bulletin released for it. The only bulletin released was for checking timing chain tensioner seal ring.

The chain tensioners collapse and cause the chain to slap against the upper guide, have even seen the upper guide get launched through the valve cover.