R53 overheat when sitting
R53 overheat when sitting
Hello, I was wondering if you guys have any advice on what to check first/how to check. I'm thinking thermostat, possibly waterpump? I have also heard the low fan is known to fail. I don't think it's the waterpump, anything over 25-30mph and the temp almost instantly drops to normal, fluids are good.
do you hear an engine cooling fan?!
a BIG issue on pre 2005 MODEL YEAR cars (before a wiring change was done) is the POWER STEERING COOLING FAN is wired so if it blows a fuse, the RADIATOR cooling fan will not run....
meaning the car will overheat when not moving.....
The low speed fan is a different issue....but the high speed should still kick in BEFORE OVERHEAT to prevent an issue.
a BIG issue on pre 2005 MODEL YEAR cars (before a wiring change was done) is the POWER STEERING COOLING FAN is wired so if it blows a fuse, the RADIATOR cooling fan will not run....
meaning the car will overheat when not moving.....
The low speed fan is a different issue....but the high speed should still kick in BEFORE OVERHEAT to prevent an issue.
If you still hear the engine fan...
Next look at fluid level...often low due to pinhole leaks in the tank along the seam...or a leaking thermostat gasket...both very common.
Also with advanced age, now some rad are cracking where the plastic ends meet the metal core..common issue on ALL modern rads od this typical OEM desgin...but new aftermarket copies are about $100 on places like rock-auto.com
one tip...the wiring change was actually done in january 2005..so abour 5 months of 2005 model years cars don't have the change (like mine) unless the dealer did it after delivery (like mine).
one extra bit of info...
Any odd sounds or changes recently?
Near end-stages of the SC waterpump PTO failure is when the gears are mostly ground down...the car is OK with decent rpms, but car overheats at idle. Tell tale sighn the car has a bit of a sound of clanking chains......
Next look at fluid level...often low due to pinhole leaks in the tank along the seam...or a leaking thermostat gasket...both very common.
Also with advanced age, now some rad are cracking where the plastic ends meet the metal core..common issue on ALL modern rads od this typical OEM desgin...but new aftermarket copies are about $100 on places like rock-auto.com
one tip...the wiring change was actually done in january 2005..so abour 5 months of 2005 model years cars don't have the change (like mine) unless the dealer did it after delivery (like mine).
one extra bit of info...
Any odd sounds or changes recently?
Near end-stages of the SC waterpump PTO failure is when the gears are mostly ground down...the car is OK with decent rpms, but car overheats at idle. Tell tale sighn the car has a bit of a sound of clanking chains......
Ok, I checked my VIN, and it seems I have early '05 model. Anyway to check the wiring to see if it was changed? I haven't noticed any noise changes from inside the vehicle, but I'll check when I get home. Luckily not my only means of transportation.
FYI for anyone else interested in their Mini's VIN, I used this site, very easy and helpful
http://www.sjbaker.org/telamom/vin.html
FYI for anyone else interested in their Mini's VIN, I used this site, very easy and helpful
http://www.sjbaker.org/telamom/vin.html
Ok, I checked my VIN, and it seems I have early '05 model. Anyway to check the wiring to see if it was changed? I haven't noticed any noise changes from inside the vehicle, but I'll check when I get home. Luckily not my only means of transportation.
http://www.sjbaker.org/telamom/vin.html
http://www.sjbaker.org/telamom/vin.html
here is the funny part...
All the NEWER fans (fits 2003+) still have the PS fan connector on it (to maintain BACKWARDS compatibility with non-modified cars), AND the plug for the fan itself...
..you will see an rectangular 2 wire connector with rounded edges....this is like a long cord for the PS fan....when the wiring is changed...this connector is usually cut off or simply left hanging (on the fan side, car side is rerouted)...and the PS fan has its power from a new FUSE.
It might be GOOD news you have an early 2005...
The first few months of production (2005, and a couple years before that) have an extended warranty on the PS pump and fan....check your production date on the door and compare it to the letters around....if the miles are low enough, you get a new pump/fan if it fails!!
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Sorry I haven't replied in a bit, after a bit of fooling around, it seems like a leaky thermostat. But now the car won't start, and it's either the starter or the battery, having some great luck here
Part of the savings of having no crazy new car payment.
Batteries are cheap...just make sure it has the connections for the vent tube...
Check the battery terminals... Should be clean and shinny..not dull gray...battery area should be very dry (water in the battery area can cause issues)....cables tight...including grounds...a few free things to do check...
One thing to remember...
There is also a clutch safety switch...can also fail, and prevent cranking.
Do you hear the starter click or clunk...then have most of the lights in the car dimm a bit?
Good luck...but it is all parts of a puzzle to figure out the causes...
Cars do get old and need a bit of TLC...
Part of the savings of having no crazy new car payment.
Batteries are cheap...just make sure it has the connections for the vent tube...
Check the battery terminals... Should be clean and shinny..not dull gray...battery area should be very dry (water in the battery area can cause issues)....cables tight...including grounds...a few free things to do check...
One thing to remember...
There is also a clutch safety switch...can also fail, and prevent cranking.
Do you hear the starter click or clunk...then have most of the lights in the car dimm a bit?
Good luck...but it is all parts of a puzzle to figure out the causes...
Part of the savings of having no crazy new car payment.
Batteries are cheap...just make sure it has the connections for the vent tube...
Check the battery terminals... Should be clean and shinny..not dull gray...battery area should be very dry (water in the battery area can cause issues)....cables tight...including grounds...a few free things to do check...
One thing to remember...
There is also a clutch safety switch...can also fail, and prevent cranking.
Do you hear the starter click or clunk...then have most of the lights in the car dimm a bit?
Good luck...but it is all parts of a puzzle to figure out the causes...
Sorry for the double
What I've learned today, if you have a dead battery, never charge it from the terminal under the hood, it's frustrating and useless, use the actual battery. Up and running, now it's just the thermostat issue. Zippy, you've been a great help so far!
What I've learned today, if you have a dead battery, never charge it from the terminal under the hood, it's frustrating and useless, use the actual battery. Up and running, now it's just the thermostat issue. Zippy, you've been a great help so far!
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