PCV Mystery solved!

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Dec 25, 2017 | 04:24 AM

#26

caniggia

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Could be your system is plugged. After battery reset when all is connected as stock car should idle like stock. That's your goal

Dec 25, 2017 | 08:18 AM

#27

mikisaab

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Thats the goal! at the moment struggling to get that 10 mm bolt out , the one behind the throttle body ,, once I get the whole intake out I will clean as I mentioned ,, my question is, is there anything to look for that could be clogged like inside the throttle body ? is there any sensor that controls the opening and closing of the throtle faps ,, like an TPS or something like that ,, keep in mind that I didnt get any check engine lights when all this fluctuation is happening at idle only ,,

Dec 25, 2017 | 01:43 PM

#28

mikisaab

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Does the intercooler for the turbo get clogged by oil and cause air intake imbalance in Mini cooper s R56?

Dec 25, 2017 | 02:57 PM

#29

caniggia

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Driver side oil m mist is relatively low, so I don't think it can clog anything

Dec 25, 2017 | 03:07 PM

#30

mikisaab

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Ok so here is what I found
the pcv hose is cracked in two places ,, would this cause the idle to fluctuate when the hose in plugged in the valve cover? I am guessing yes as the air is probably monitored by a sensor on the manifold ,, but I could be wrong,,, any feedback would be helpfull ,, my other question as the valves are visible ,, is there a way to clean them without taking the car to a shop? can I spray anything in there to remove the carbon buildup? last question what is the best brand also not too expensive for an oil catch can ,, ?

Dec 25, 2017 | 03:30 PM

#31

caniggia

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Any problem in PCV may cause idle to jump.
in mine I removed cylinder head to clear, can't advise you how to clean without removing head. Some say that water/methanol injection clear

Dec 25, 2017 | 04:20 PM

#32

mikisaab

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Thank you for the feedback Caniggia , How about the catch can what is a good brand to buy that wont cause a lot?

Dec 25, 2017 | 04:37 PM

#33

caniggia

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In Poland you can buy very high quality universal catch cans for really not big money, around 50 eur plus shipping around 15-20 http://properfekt.pl/akcesoria-samoc...atch-tank.html . In USA i buy UPR catch cans for good money that I use in Mustangs and last time I adopted one to my Mini, http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...atch-cans.html Photo of one installed Mini attached. Keep in mind this should be installed on passenger side, here where I installed should be bigger with 3/4 inlet/outlet

Attached Thumbnails

Dec 26, 2017 | 07:49 AM

#34

mikisaab

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Hi Caniggia thank you for the pics.,,. so it should be installed on the back pcv hose ,, how come you installed it on the driver side pcv ?

Dec 26, 2017 | 08:41 AM

#35

caniggia

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I wanted to install 2, but had no time, this was easier

but that was my bad as stated above.

Dec 26, 2017 | 02:05 PM

#36

mikisaab

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Finally it worked ,, the idle is back to normal after replacing the pcv hose ,,
now I want to install the oil catch can and I want to replace the break pump ,, I noticed also that the Radiator fan keeps runningfor a good 3 min after shutting off the car ,, is that normal for this R56 S?

Dec 26, 2017 | 02:16 PM

#37

caniggia

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Not often, but sometimes it does, maybe from coolant temp or when ac was turned on

Dec 28, 2017 | 06:39 AM

#38

ECSTuning

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From: Wadsworth, Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikisaab

If its cold outside and the engine is cool and not running hot, that might be your thermostat. Mine did this at the beginning before it went. If you have the a/c on or in a hot climate then the fan will run a little after shutting down. If it runs very long all the time, you have a coolant leak, most likely a thermostat leak.

Info here on thermostat:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...9-no-heat.html

On the Valve cover the plunger diaphragm tends to stick among others and then the system sucks up more oil and burns it. Creates the oil consumption issue and to some extent, it possibly contributes to carbon build up quicker as more heavy oil mist is sucked into the intake. That's what I have seen. 11127646555

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lve-cover.html

Looks like the OP pic shows the updated part on its back side, but the cut out one as the older version. Cannot tell by the picture as I know they revised the part, but I have not cut one up.

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Dec 28, 2017 | 09:53 AM

#39

mikisaab

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Here is what I noticed ,, when I start it and run it for 30 sec max then shut it off ,, thats when the fan keeps running for a good 3 min ,, but when I took it for a drive and then shut it off ,, the fan didnt run at all afterwards,, this is without ac on and with outside temp 16 degrees celcius.. I dont see any coolent leaks under the car ,, but does the behavior mentioned above show that it is a bad thermostat?

Dec 28, 2017 | 10:22 AM

#40

ECSTuning

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Yes, sounds like after you drive it and warm up the fluid hits the sensor at the top of the thermostat. But when you drive it really quick it's lower than the sensor and kicks on the fan. You will not see it leaking at first as it pools the coolant on the top of the transmission before leaking down the back. Check under that thermostat and also check under the expansion tank for a crack or small leak that has not touched the ground. That's my bet is its the thermostat. One thing you can do also is reclipping in the sensor on the top just to make sure on the thermostat it's not loose. Just the end plug on that brass color single sensor on the top of the thermostat housing.

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Jan 15, 2018 | 10:01 PM

#41

Scooter24

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From: Durand, Michigan

I have a 2011 mcs and when I deleted the "muffler" on the hot side boost tube that went from the turbo to intercooler I had a little oil residue in the stock tube. Would a catch can keep the oil out of the intercooler? Or what could cause this?

Jan 16, 2018 | 07:29 AM

#42

DneprDave

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From: Pacific NW

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scooter24

That is what hey are supposed to do, but they are not 100% effective, especially in hot weather. Still, they do reduce the amount of oil that gets downstream of the oil catch can. I put one on my MINI.

Jul 4, 2018 | 11:09 AM

#43

bugeye1031

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Quote:

Originally Posted by czar

Firstly let me explain a little about the PCV, PCV is an acronym for Positive crankcase ventilation, inside the cam cover there are a few entrapment passages and direction chambers, which do their best to separate the suspended oil particles from the passing vapour, this vapour is then vacuum drawn from the cam cover passageways through a valve flap, the first direction is through the rear PCV line into the intake manifold, next, when the vacuum draw from the turbo (building boost pressure) is greater than the vacuum draw of the induction stroke from the pistons, the rear PCV valve flap is closed, as is the diaphragm in the cam cover, this then changes the direction flow of the vapour, and the vapour is vacuum drawn through the passenger side PCV valve flap into the air intake flow pre-turbo, once off boost and steady throttle is resumed then the vapour is once again vacuum drawn through the rear PCV line.

Now the actual valve flaps themselves are merely free falling self closing rubber diaphragms, there is no spring or piston actuation on either valve flap, however there is a sprung chamber diaphragm, which opens/closes under the vacuum draw from both the inlet manifold and turbo vacuum draw, this dictates the flow direction, and in the later re-designed cam cover allows excess pressure to vent through the inbuilt pressure release sprung valve.

The above is what I wrote to answer a question back in June 2012 I hope this helps clear things up.

This may be a stupid question....but here it is anyway. I believe that the valves within the cover prevent the the two vacuum sources from ventilating the crankcase at the same time in order to prevent the intake (passenger side - not accelerating - intake under vacuum) from sucking air from the driver side....and vice versa (turbo side pulling air from the intake side while accelerating - intake under pressure). Is this correct?

If this is correct, then why not use a single oil catch can for both sides? The hoses, connections, and routing could be challenging, but it seems like it would be a better solution than blocking the passenger side as some OCC vendors recommend.

Another stupid question....what fails within the valve cover? Any chance of being able to repair it? Haven't found much on that....

Jul 4, 2018 | 11:27 AM

#44

MNIPWR

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bugeye1031

That is correct. You can’t use one catch can because the vacuume would suck air from weird places. Best is two catch cans.

The valve seals fail. Not the valve cover. It’s caused by a pressure differential sucking air from the valve cover to the intake.

Jul 5, 2018 | 08:05 AM

#45

DneprDave

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Almost eight years ago, I blocked off the passenger side PCV port and put an Oil Catch Can on the PCV line to the turbocharger intake. I have had no problems.

Jul 5, 2018 | 11:01 AM

#46

MNIPWR

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DneprDave

Almost eight years ago, I blocked off the passenger side PCV port and put an Oil Catch Can on the PCV line to the turbocharger intake. I have had no problems.

That will cause a vacuume on the valve cover. It won’t be exactly the same as the I take pressure but it will still be a vacuume. Probably why you haven’t had any issues.

Jul 5, 2018 | 12:49 PM

#47

drea-min

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From: Makakilo,Hawaii

Quote:

Originally Posted by MNIPWR

You hook it back up. You add a catch can if you don't want to limit the PCV gasses entering the intake manifold. The vacuums is caused by normal operation of the engine. Hook the PCV line back up.

i did attached a OCC to it as experiment why my car has blue smoke whenever it gets hot, first i used radiator hose since i can’t find a similar hose a hard hose, it collapse in 1 short trip because it always pull vacuum, i ordered a silicone vacuum hose and had it shipped to my state still silicone collapse but i will leave it on and observe what happen next. The rear of the valve cover always under vacuum and when the engine really hot and build pressure which i’ve noticed before the OCC that whenever i stop and go at stop light and accellarate there was a blue smoke from the exhaust which means the valve cover flopper or non-return flapper opens up allowing excess vapor to the rear of the valve cover or PCV as they mentioned. My R55 has about 100k miles maybe time to had the valve seal replaced...
I want to comment on ticking noise on the driver side of the engine, i thought its the timing chain also going bad and getting all my parts together but based on the video i watched on YouTube how to determine where the noise is coming from i found that the vacuum pump is making noise by disconnecting the vacuum tube that goes to the brake booster it makes the engine quiet so i replaced it the other day and rhe noise is gone although when i compare the old and the new part it look the same no leak or so and the gap or play seems the same, good thing though i eliminate my worry and hold off the timing chain job for awhile. FYI

Last edited by drea-min; Jul 5, 2018 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Mispelled

Aug 16, 2022 | 10:54 AM

#48

swaags

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Holy ****! I bet this is what 90% of people think is the "death Rattle" myself included. I knew it wasnt something drastic because it persisted after i rebuilt the whole engine and had a head job done, but damn, good to know.

Aug 16, 2022 | 10:55 AM

#49

swaags

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Quote:

Originally Posted by elsinorej

MNIPWR,
The knock/rattling in your other video is not the pistons it is the coupler between the exhaust cam and the vacuum pump. I removed mine and used an electric pump because it drove me nuts.