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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
So I am in the middle of replacing the turbo oil feed line. I got the O2 sensor and top heat shield removed. Now I am working to remove the downpipe. The lower O2 sensor is stuck on there pretty good. I'm using an O2 sensor socket looks similar to this one:
And I am using a 18" breaker bar. I tried pb blaster and only waited a few minutes. I was pulling so hard that the bolt on the sensor started to strip so I backed off. Although its been marred, its still in good shape for the socket to hold onto. Still stuck on there tight. I soaked it overnight in PB blaster so going to try it again soon. Here is a picture of it soaked in pb blaster:
The down pipe is connected to the exhaust via a V-clamp. I removed the nut on the camp assembly and removed as much rust as i could with a wire brush, but the clamp is still stuck. Last night I tried pb blaster and a screwdriver to pry it open, but it seems to be stuck on pipe. I did the same thing and just soaked that area with pb blaster over night and hopefully that did the trick, here is what it looks like:
Does anyone have any tips/techniques for getting these two things off?
I had that problem with the o2 sensor on my friends car, and trouble with the v-band clamp on my car!
You can follow the wires from the sensor to a connector, pull out the red tab and slide it apart - you can remove the downpipe and put it in a vise to try to get the sensor out. I used a socket like that with a 1/2" breaker bar, and I *thought* I broke the torque on it, however I actually broke the socket, and skipped over and completely ruined the flats on the sensor - that's with using penetrating fluids. I took it in to my work, and they have an oxy acetylene torch.. heated it up until it was red and got it out with a regular 22mm wrench. Heat really Really helps. The threads on the sensor were messed up, but with a threadchaser it was useable again. The flats were pretty messed up too but I was able to file them flat again.
As for the clamp, I cut the bolt with a grinder so I could fit the cutoff wheel to cut off one of the tabs of the clamp. With that tab off, you can hit and pry at it to get it off.
Thanks guys, after letting the PB Blaster soak overnight I went at it again in the morning. I ended up removing the clamp by hitting it with a hammer several times to loosen the binding and then I used a screwdriver to pry it open. The O2 sensor was a bit harder. I ended up running the car to heat up the down pipe and then using a 22mm open ended wrench instead of the socket. The wrench had a much better grip on the sensor. I'll be making sure I use anti seize on all those threads! Cheers!
Glad it worked out for you! Good idea on starting the car to heat it up. The threads on the downpipe don't look very good, or is that just a bit of dirt? Hopefully the sensor threads back in well for you!
By the way, a new clamp from Mini is only $13 Canadian or so, and comes with a new gasket as well - depending on what kind of shape your old gasket is in it may not hurt. Also, when you take the downpipe off, the two studs where the bracket on the downpipe attach to are mounted on brackets. If you reach above the studs, you'll find a bolt, I forget the size now, but loosening it makes it 1000x easier to get the downpipe past the studs on the turbo - believe me, I've done it 5 times between my friend's car and mine. I usually put everything back together, including the V band clamp, before I tighten them back up.
Glad it worked out for you! Good idea on starting the car to heat it up. The threads on the downpipe don't look very good, or is that just a bit of dirt? Hopefully the sensor threads back in well for you!
By the way, a new clamp from Mini is only $13 Canadian or so, and comes with a new gasket as well - depending on what kind of shape your old gasket is in it may not hurt. Also, when you take the downpipe off, the two studs where the bracket on the downpipe attach to are mounted on brackets. If you reach above the studs, you'll find a bolt, I forget the size now, but loosening it makes it 1000x easier to get the downpipe past the studs on the turbo - believe me, I've done it 5 times between my friend's car and mine. I usually put everything back together, including the V band clamp, before I tighten them back up.
Cool, thanks for the tip. This whole process has given me a lesson in patience and working in small spaces!
i have a. '09 MCS and i am now having the same issue, its at 135k miles and the bottom o2 sensor and the last screw on the front of the top heatshield are giving me the biggest issue, the bottom o2 sensor is married to the downpipe ( using an offset o2 socket and a 3 foot breaker bar) and the last screw is just impossible to get to.
i've tried soaking the o2 sensor with pb blaster( actually wd 40 rust specialist) and had no luck, the clamp came out easily, and i was also able to put everything back after giving up with it.
i couldn't get a shop to do the work for me because they refused to use any aftermarket parts including the detroit-tuned feed line for the turbo, so im kinda stuck doing the repair on my own.
Have you tried heating with the at least MAPP gas until red hot and then rapidly cooling it with water?
O2 sensors dont usually get stuck. IF none of the above work, cut it off with a wire wheel as close go the bung as possible and then drill it out. Dont get near those bung threads.
You dont need no stinking shop.
Heat up the heat shield bolt as well. with MAPP gas. It will come off or break off...trust me. Then drill out and replace.
The new one has a little holder, but i found slipping it on one by starting at one end with a wedge holding it apart help. On removal its an impact gun on the nut after PB blaster if its rusty.
On the O2 sensor, both the top and bottom one came off with the tool here:
Dude forget about that 02 sensor remover tool. They just wanaa sell you something. Heat that bad boy up till its glowing red, then spray it with water. It will freakin fall out.
We do not even remove the O2 sensor on the bottom location. we just leave it in the down pipe. we have had them come out cross threaded from the factory. that way you do not hav to fit it or buy a new O2 sensor. just un-clip it and your done.
11-25-2012, 11:16 AM
