My hatch will not open via the unlock switch or the hatch open button on my key fob. I am wondering if anyone has had this issue or knows of a fix for it. I have to use the pull cable under the rear seat until it's fixed... Which has become quite annoying.

My car is an R53- 2005

I'm guessing I just need a new actuator to pop the lock.. But not sure.

 

I had/have a problem with my 03S hatch as well. It started last winter. I thought it was from water getting in and freezing. I tried heatig/drying it, but nothing worked. Then one day I started squeezing the handle,pushing the key fob button, and wiggling it, and it opened. It's happened a few times since. Since I don't use the boot often, it hasn't bothered me enough to look further into it. Everything seems lined up. Whoever owned it before me seemed, for some unknown reason, removed the release under the seat.

 

Did this just start recently? I remember reading a while back about some sort of moisture getting into the connections...Is there a fuse for it as well?

 

I have been looking for a fuse for it, I can not seem to find one. I'm hoping it's just a simple fix... and the part is not expensive.

 

Mine did the same thing....here is the cause/fix.
The gasket behind the hatch handle went bad, allowing water to drip behind it, and corode the switch/short it out.
My solution was to remove the handle...a few torix bolts, tgen use a bit contact cleaner to dry it out and clean it....then reattatched the handle, using a bit of liquid form a gasket for a new sealon both sides of the old one....a new gaset is cheap, but requires a dealer trip/order.
This fix might work longterm, mine has...a few years. I if it does not, or reoccurs from rain/mositure/corossion, then it might need a new switch, so best way is usually a new handle...they come in chrome or primer gray....
Like i said i used plastic safe contact cleaner and a few drops of wd40, and a new seal on the back, and all is good. My rubber part covering the bottom of the switch as aok, but some folks have had that fail....if that happens, water WILL find its way back in.

 

The rear cable release was not standard on mini's till about mid 2004....but dealers usually retrofitted them csuse if your battery fails or the switch dies....getting in the trunk is a pain...
Esp on the S, with the battery IN THE TRUNK.

 

My key fob doesn't open my hatch, but it does unlock it. I thought that was the only purpose of the fob button. Am I mistaken? I have a 2006 R53...

 

Mine doesn't actually “Open” the hatch, but the button unlocks it.

Also, I did replace my handle because I had water getting in the hatch panel. Still, the actuator will not unlock via the power way.

 

Oh, well I guess mine is fine then. I'd try the other suggestions in this thread if I were you

 

FYI...I have a December 2002 build R50 and I'm positive that I have the manual boot release under the rear seat bottom. I've tried using it a few times. Works like a charm!

 

You've already replaced the handle with new microswitch? How long ago was that and did you get any results after replacing the handle/microswitch?

Could be either faulty latch assembly (about $50ish on realoem or miniparts atlanta) Otherwise, could be electrical issue such as broken wire where the harness meets the hatch hinge from opening/closing the hatch may break a wire. Otherwise possible resistance in the circuit.

The microswitch is a simple open/closed circuit switch in the normally 'open' state. 2 wires. Power and ground. Should get either 6 or 12volts so long as the vehicle is unlocked (maybe even with vehicle locked). Anyways, squeeze the handle and the microswitch closes the loop and the power is then transferred to the ground side of the wire which then powers the latch to release the hatch striker.

Check for power at your microswitch pin. Ohm out the resistance across the microswitch pins both when handle is depressed and not depressed. This measurement should go from 0 ohms resistance to open circuit respectively.

Check for power at your latch assembly with handle depressed if resistance and power at microswitch checks out okay. If you're getting 12v at your latch with the handle depressed than ohm out your latch assembly. If that is not showing open circuit and has a reasonable reading, than check resistance on the ground wire connecting to the latch.

One of these will return a result that will lead you to your answer.

DC voltmeters can be had for cheap and are a must for any DIY handyman now-a-days as everything on a car is now a mix of mechanical and electrical components.



By the way. My hatch has been finicky for months. I had to squeeze my handle just right to get it to open. Used to be when I had the rear seats up and the boot cover in place the handle wouldn't open the hatch. But for the past 2 weeks the handle has been completely unresponsive. I'm leaning towards a microswitch but haven't ruled out the latch assembly itself or a wire in between.

 

I replaced the entire hatch handle about 2-3 months ago and it didn't change a thing. I'm guessing it's the latch assembly? I checked fuse 37 which is for the door locks. The doors work fine and the the fuse looked ok. I hope it's just the latch assembly or something easier and cheaper to fix lol

 

2006 convertible. The hatch lock was not working at all. I checked the switch with a meter and the motor by jumping and both worked fine. Based on a tip I read somewhere, I decided it might be a broken wire in the run from the trunk lid to the interior. So I jumped the green/grey and brown/grey wires from the lid to the interior and voila; back in operation. The wires are of a small gauge so the opening and closing of the lid must have stressed the wires.

 

Yes, been talked about here : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-diy-2.html