Hey guys so after the hardest lesson learnt on fitting a new clutch I am nearly there.

Got everything installed just got a few questions really hoping some of you guys can chip in.

Main problem at hand is the half check engine light. The onscreen came up with CCID 029. Got a friend to use his diagnostic machine and we got the following codes.

2a53 o2 heating after cat
2ef2 intake air temp sensor signal
289D boost pressure sensor electric.*

I am aware of the o2 sensor that broke off when I was lowering the engine, ropes got tangled. Anyway it was no longer and was given an error way before this problem.

So it leaves me with the two remaining. I don't think I have mixed up any wires but always a possibility.

Could you guys help me locate these two sensors and possible solutions to see if they dead? Eg test meter etc.

Please note this is a Euro mini so basically it's a right hand drive so will also probably not have certain things that are on US minis.

 

MINI DTC P0036 (0x2A53) - Heated O2 Sensor (HO2S) Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 - Sensor 2)
MINI DTC P0112 (0x2EF2) - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low
MINI DTC P0238 (0x289D) - Turbocharger Boost Sensor 'A' Circuit High

The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is integrated with the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor that's on the hard-pipe of the intake system.
Sounds like that's gone out of whack or was damaged during your installation.
Check wiring and connections; replace if wiring and signals are good.

- Erik

 

Thanks so much Erik, I will get to cleaning the sensor and see.

Could it also be because the exhaust is not yet connected? I have just disconnected the exhaust past the cat, could the pressure be loosing from there? Just a speculation?

Finally is there a risk driving it in this state or is it just that I will have no boost?

 

You're welcome; keep us posted on the progress.

No; anything after the exhaust turbine of the turbocharger doesn't matter.

Driving with no exhaust? No, you'll be fine.
I don't see a problem running this for a short amount of time.

- Erik

 

Hi Erik is this the boost sensor that is under the manifold?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...82&hg=11&fg=45

And is the intake air temp the one on the hard pipe?

Which would most likely be the main culprit basically which is the first sensor before it gets to the second if that makes sense. The chain of command so to speak.

Does the air first go to the air intake sensor then on to boost sensor? Or vise versa?

And is there anyway to test the air intake with a test meter?

 

No, the MAP and IAT are on the hard pipe (item #5):

Its refered to as a Temperature / Pressure sensor (P/N #13627535069).

Grab hold of a Bentley Service manual to see if there's a resistance reading for a know temperature.

- Erik

 

Hi Erik just to clarify the boost and intake sensor that are showing as errors are are the same sensor located on the hard pipe, which in the diagram you posted is item #5.

Gave it a clean but no difference so will probably order a new sensor. I don't have any access to a Bentley manual being out in the middle of Africa probably take a couple of weeks to get to me.

But I must say you have been a great help and have always chimed in at the right time.

 

Ok did a bit of testing around but not sure what's what.

I disconnected the cable to the the boost sensor. And ran a test meter on voltage with engine on.

I got pretty much readings from all except the white cable which seems to be the earth.

I then test on another sensor I believe it's the crank sensor and positive to negative shows 5v.

I then stripped a bit of wire going to the boost sensor and grounded it (white) to the body of car and immediately the half power check engine sign went away and I was getting 5v.

Took it for a quick drive boost still wasn't there then eventually the check engine came back on half power.

So back to the drawing board.

Anyone willing to test the power coming from boost sensor with plus side on number 4 and negative on 1 then 4-2 then 4-3

And then again on the resistance side.

I know it's asking anyone alot but if you can help that will be great

 

Hi There i have the same problem and have been trying to figure it out for months. Even a Bosch specialist couldn't figure it out. Did you figure out a solution? I would really appreciate if you could let me know. Thank you.

 

Hi Jack, yeah sorry I did figure it out. Basically remove the air box then remove intake manifold. Be very careful when removing it cause there are sensors underneath it. In my situation the wiring to one of the vacuum was broken. Basically trace those wires under manifold and make sure none are broken.

Keep me posted

 

Thanks for your reply! So the fault codes that are causing limp mode aren't caused by an electrical fault but a broken vacuum hose underneath your manifold? I think we have the same problem. I get home from work in a few days and will have a look at the vacuum hose that you suggested! Thanks.

 

Hi Jack, did you ever get your code cleared? I have the same CCID 029 error after changing the serpentine (drive) belt. I also noticed my cooling fan runs longer after I shut the car off.

 

In case anybody else gets the CCID 029.

Took the car to the dealer for a water pump recall. It's Friday, been in the shop since Monday. They called and said the error code is with the vacuum pump. It is letting engine oil get into the vacuum lines causing them to bulge. They want $1,500 to replace the vacuum pump and the lines.
Off I search for that thread. I think I read about oil in vacuum lines somewhere before.

 

And just to help someone else out, weeks later I got the CC-ID 029 message on the way home from having the clutch replaced. This time it was the turbo charger.
I'm over 100,000 miles now so that's the end of the cpo warranty. Also the end of my ownership. Sold it last night.

Been real, Been fun. But it hasn't been real fun. Gotta know when to fold.