When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Hi - this is quite an old post now - I glued my locking catches back to gether a couple of times - but I just need to bite the bullet and replace.
Did anyone get to the bottom of the little pin/nub thing? can it just be ground off?
Those would have to be ground down if the A -pillar trim where not replaced. There was a design change on these in the early years of production for 2005 models, from no pins to pins. They all come with the pins now.
Convertible Top Front Linkage - Pair Part # 54347174763
Has anyone successfully scanned and printed a replacement for the broken linkage arm in the locking hook?
If so, would you be willing to share the STL file?
Thanks
It doesn't seem like these things are possible to dis-assemble without destroying the whole piece. Replacing the plastic part of the linkage with aluminum or something would definitely feel like a more worthwhile repair.
I ended up finding the side I needed on eBay, so did not have to purchase a pair, but did end up needing to grind off the pin as noted above.
I know this is an old thread but new to me. I couldn't justify the $250 for a pair of new ones so this was my quick and dirty fix. It works so far!
Broken top latch repaired by sandwiching with aluminum and bedded in epoxy. Spring bent into place after curing.
I was was thinking about doing the graphite fiber and epoxy but this looks a lot better. What thickness did you use?
you put epoxy underneath and screwed in as well right?
Originally Posted by Projectboats
I know this is an old thread but new to me. I couldn't justify the $250 for a pair of new ones so this was my quick and dirty fix. It works so far!
Broken top latch repaired by sandwiching with aluminum and bedded in epoxy. Spring bent into place after curing.
I just noticed the spring in the picture wasn’t attached. Did you end up leaving it like that?
edit: nevermind just reread your post and saw you bent it back in lol
I just took the part off and realized it broke where you placed one of the screws. I’m thinking I can still do it but it probably won’t be as reliable without the screw. Hopefully it’ll still be strong enough with the epoxy and the aluminum.
edit 2: I was wondering if you cut or grinder the plastic dividers within before putting the aluminum in. It looks like the 1/8 is too thick without doing so.
Thanks again!
Originally Posted by Projectboats
Hi
I used 1/8" on both sides. I used machine screws and tapped threads in one plate. I then bedded everything in epoxy.
The good news is it worked !
Part of the reason I went with this method is alignment would be difficult otherwise.
good luck!
Last edited by Jordan Rodriguez; May 17, 2019 at 11:01 PM.
Reason: Added stuff
hello,
i'm a new mini owner and new to the forum. Just bought an '05 s convertible. I have a few questions about the top not fully working.
Sunroof will open/close fine to position one. When try to fully open roof, sunroof moves open another inch then stops....then nothing. If i open hydraulic motor valve and lift the frame open 12 inches, then close valve, the roof switch can then open the top the remainder of the way, or close the top all the way, including sunroof.
I have noticed that the locking hooks are broken on both sides (plastic linkage that drives the hook is broken). This is part 54347174763. My questions are several:
(a) what would cause the plastic linkage on both locking hooks to break?
(b) are there any switches associated with the locking hook? At the rear of of the plastic linkage in part 54347174763 there is a metal 'bow' that looks like it should do something, maybe with a switch, but there is nothing on either end. Attached image shows back of broken part with front of locking hook removed.
(c) also noticed that when top goes down (after open valve, help, close valve), the front of the top rubs the roll bar as it passes behind it. Don't know if that is a sign of the sunroof not opening fully?
I don't think any of my problems are associated with the cargo lid or cargo loading aide. When i open these, the top doesn't even start to open.
Any comments from your experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
having the exact same issue.....hooks broken , wont open on its own and rubs roll bar on opening....did you ever fixed this ? How? Thank you !
If hooks break while closed: you will have to open it up from the rail. and push up on the top to unlock. but before you do that you have to disconnect the sunroof motor , slide the top back manually till it gets to sunroof open position. Then push up on the arms on each side to unlock.
The sunroof part has to be adjusted so it goes all the way back so the front portion does not rub the top. If its too hard to work on the MINI dealer can help you but they are pretty expensive.
Those hooks have a plastic part that when pushed back on the sunroof operation( opening the roof from sunroof position) push the top back a few MM more and then the top opens, when this happens the top is all the way back in sunroof and clears the roll bars.
If the top hooks are fine and repaired and this does touch the roll bars then the dealership has to fine adjust the top. Newtis used to have the adjustment DIY but that site is now blocked. Workshop manual has some of it/ https://workshop-manuals.com/mini/co...n/adjustments/
Both my plastic hooks are broken. So you are telling me that because of this , the sunroof does not travel all the way back where its supposed to right?
When i open the sunroof , everything works fine , but then the top has to be helped by hand in order for the pump to start and retract the top and it hits the roll bar with the fornt part of the top .
yes, they have little tabs that slide back when open, they hit a piece (long piece) in the rail further back which trigger the top to go back a second time really short and quick, then the top opens.
@JeremyG , @ECSTuning
Sorry to bother, but I now have to replace right locking hook, after reglued one time.
I have the "pre nub" version and I can only find the "nub" ones, so I need to grind off the pin/nub. Do you grind off pin only or the whole pin/nub thing, as in this image?
Thanks for your help!
