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Locking hooks broken, convertible top

  #26  
Old 07-01-2014, 11:37 AM
DocRock
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Grind 'em off

My latches were recently replaced at the local Mini dealer, and the shop ground the pins off. New latches are working fine this way.
 
  #27  
Old 07-01-2014, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JeremyG View Post
Hi - this is quite an old post now - I glued my locking catches back to gether a couple of times - but I just need to bite the bullet and replace.

Did anyone get to the bottom of the little pin/nub thing? can it just be ground off?
Those would have to be ground down if the A -pillar trim where not replaced. There was a design change on these in the early years of production for 2005 models, from no pins to pins. They all come with the pins now.

Convertible Top Front Linkage - Pair Part # 54347174763

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/54347174763/




Thanks
 
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  #28  
Old 07-13-2014, 05:51 AM
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Thanks All

Ground the pins off (2 min job) and now all fitting and working fine!!!
 
  #29  
Old 07-14-2014, 07:07 AM
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You are welcome. Glad you got it working. Top down fun for the summer now.
 
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  #30  
Old 09-03-2016, 05:52 PM
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3D printed locking hook arm

Has anyone successfully scanned and printed a replacement for the broken linkage arm in the locking hook?

If so, would you be willing to share the STL file?

Thanks
 
  #31  
Old 09-03-2016, 06:12 PM
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OR does anyone have the left locking hook assembly left over after replacing the right one? I need the left assembly.

Thanks
 
  #32  
Old 09-06-2016, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by krgrantham View Post
Has anyone successfully scanned and printed a replacement for the broken linkage arm in the locking hook?

If so, would you be willing to share the STL file?

Thanks
It doesn't seem like these things are possible to dis-assemble without destroying the whole piece. Replacing the plastic part of the linkage with aluminum or something would definitely feel like a more worthwhile repair.

I ended up finding the side I needed on eBay, so did not have to purchase a pair, but did end up needing to grind off the pin as noted above.
 
  #33  
Old 09-06-2016, 01:48 PM
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You can get the set , then sell the side you dont need on ebay or something. People are always looking for the opposite side.
 
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  #34  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:06 PM
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This is a great write up. I have to try and fix my top this winter so I am ready for the spring!!!
 
  #35  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:10 PM
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yep, its a good one. Make sure when you do to clean and relube the top. Saves the top wear and tear on the future.
 
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  #36  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
yep, its a good one. Make sure when you do to clean and relube the top. Saves the top wear and tear on the future.
I will lube it up. That is correct broken piece for the locks?
 
  #37  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:56 PM
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Bottom piece yes, is the double hook gates. The top piece up top on the slider with the double pivot arm is the green cables/front gate.
 
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  #38  
Old 04-04-2019, 03:45 PM
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I know this is an old thread but new to me. I couldn't justify the $250 for a pair of new ones so this was my quick and dirty fix. It works so far!
Broken top latch repaired by sandwiching with aluminum and bedded in epoxy. Spring bent into place after curing.
 
  #39  
Old 05-14-2019, 07:16 PM
Jordan Rodriguez
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I was was thinking about doing the graphite fiber and epoxy but this looks a lot better. What thickness did you use?

you put epoxy underneath and screwed in as well right?

Originally Posted by Projectboats View Post
I know this is an old thread but new to me. I couldn't justify the $250 for a pair of new ones so this was my quick and dirty fix. It works so far!
Broken top latch repaired by sandwiching with aluminum and bedded in epoxy. Spring bent into place after curing.
 
  #40  
Old 05-14-2019, 07:36 PM
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Hi
I used 1/8" on both sides. I used machine screws and tapped threads in one plate. I then bedded everything in epoxy.
The good news is it worked !

Part of the reason I went with this method is alignment would be difficult otherwise.

good luck!
 
  #41  
Old 05-17-2019, 06:14 PM
Jordan Rodriguez
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I just noticed the spring in the picture wasn’t attached. Did you end up leaving it like that?


edit: nevermind just reread your post and saw you bent it back in lol

I just took the part off and realized it broke where you placed one of the screws. I’m thinking I can still do it but it probably won’t be as reliable without the screw. Hopefully it’ll still be strong enough with the epoxy and the aluminum.

edit 2: I was wondering if you cut or grinder the plastic dividers within before putting the aluminum in. It looks like the 1/8 is too thick without doing so.

Thanks again!


Originally Posted by Projectboats View Post
Hi
I used 1/8" on both sides. I used machine screws and tapped threads in one plate. I then bedded everything in epoxy.
The good news is it worked !

Part of the reason I went with this method is alignment would be difficult otherwise.

good luck!
 

Last edited by Jordan Rodriguez; 05-17-2019 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Added stuff
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