Top opening stops; goes with 'help'; then hits rollbar
 

Hello,
I'm a new mini owner and new to the forum. Just bought an '05 S convertible. I have a few questions about the top not fully working.

Sunroof will open/close fine to position one. When try to fully open roof, sunroof moves open another inch then stops....then nothing. if I open hydraulic motor valve and lift the frame open 12 inches, then close valve, the roof switch can then open the top the remainder of the way, or close the top all the way, including sunroof.

I have noticed that the locking hooks are broken on both sides (plastic linkage that drives the hook is broken). This is part 54347174763. My questions are several:
(A) What would cause the plastic linkage on both locking hooks to break?
(B) Are there any switches associated with the locking hook? At the rear of of the plastic linkage in part 54347174763 there is a metal 'bow' that looks like it should do something, maybe with a switch, but there is nothing on either end. Attached image shows back of broken part with front of locking hook removed.
(C) Also noticed that when top goes down (after open valve, help, close valve), the front of the top rubs the roll bar as it passes behind it. Don't know if that is a sign of the sunroof not opening fully?

I don't think any of my problems are associated with the cargo lid or cargo loading aide. When I open these, the top doesn't even start to open.

Any comments from your experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Another try with attachment
 

First post didn't get my attachment

Update
 

I have repaired locking hooks and further diagnosed remaining problems in top operation:

• The sunroof opens/closes/latches properly.
• With open sunroof, when try to put top down, sunroof moves back another inch, then everything stops.
• If I push up on roof crossbar just a couple of inches and hold, mostly on driver side, and push the open button, the top goes down.
• The front of the top hits the rollbar as it passes: doesn't stop but clearly interferes.
• Closing the top seems to work fully.

Remaining questions for you all:

• Looking for any guidance on testing/fixing switches in convetible top mechanism on driver side near crossbar.
• To address interference with rollbar, my next thought is to adjust mounts for the convertible top main bearing. Any suggestions as to whether this is a good idea?

Please shout out if there is wisdom to be shared. Thanks!

Hi there
I have just had the roof cables replaced on mine and they had this issue while trying to replace them - I think it is just about getting the cables setup and adjusted so they are the same on both sides. I think you need to...
1) take the motor out (center of roof, 3 bolts)
2) using a screwdriver, you can push the cables forward as far as possible by engaging the screwdriver in the grooves of the cable.
3) turn the ignition off and on to reset the warnings.
I would also lubricate everything you can see!

I'm no expert here but the problem with mine was about lubrication and balance with the sides of the sunroof opening slightly different amounts causing one of the hooks not to open properly and the front of the sunroof part to catch on the rollbar.

Have a look at the videos here http://www.youtube.com/user/tullid1?feature=watch which show you how to replace the cables but have details of how to get the cables adjusted right

I now have a broken lever in the hook mechanism as you now have!! Can you advise how you replaced this?

regards

Jeremy

No real helpful advice but I'm feeling for ya. I'll grit my teeth, furrow my brow and think deep thoughts in solidarity.
One thing though, the top should in no way come in contact with the roll bars. Good luck getting these problems sorted.

Fly'n Brick, thank you for the deep thoughts and wishes for success!

JeremyG, thank you for your response. I've been enjoying sunroof only while I considered what to do next. I had already watched the videos you referenced and attempted sunroof/cable alignment with no success, but your response and suggestions have motivated me to take another crack at aligning and lubricating this time.
I suspect a possible obstruction, as I have removed the motor and tried to manually slide the sunroof open further so that it would then clear the rollbar when the top goes down. To help me assess my situation, can you tell me how far the sunroof opens horizontally after holding the open button once, and then after holding the open button again, when the sunroof moves to full open and latches release but just before the hydraulic motor engages to lift the roof? Thank you for your help!

You also asked about replacing the broken plastic lever in the hook mechanism (see thumbnail in my earlier post). I was able to remove the locking hooks mechanism by simply removing the plastic covers on the rail, and then a few torx screws near the front and back of the hook mechanism. I didn't have to get into the internals of the rail/cable mechanism. Having removed the mechanism, now in two pieces due to the broken plastic lever, I repaired the plastic levers by aligning the broken parts and wrapping the edge perimeter of the plastic lever with a strand graphite fiber dipped in marine epoxy. As the original plastic lever was pretty flimsy, the graphite edging seems to be holding quite well. I hope that I have answered your question and that you understand my description. If not, then let me know and I'll try again or go take some pictures of the repaired part.

Hi DocRock

I'm afraid I can't take any measurements right now as the top is not working properly due to the broken hook. Perhaps someone else with a fully working roof can answer this.

I currently have mine disassembled and am using an epoxy (JBWeld) to try and repair the arm - I don't hold out much hope for this lasting long though so I think I will order the new parts (£136 for a pair).

Just an update

Have tried epoxy which seems to have worked but on refitting I noticed that that metal piece that runs though the slider that the arm is attached to should hook into the arm - check the other side to see what I mean. I think this is going to be impossible to fit and epoxy the broken part so I think its a new part. It did seem to work without it, but I took it apart again to try to fit the spring.

JeremyG,

Both of mine were broken, so I wasn't clear where the metal part came into the picture. I found nice pictures of the part on the web, and now it makes sense. My repaired parts without spring in place worked, but had a tendency to drop with the sunroof open, while the spring probably will hold the arm up if repaired properly. I am going to make another attempt, using epoxy and graphite fiber with the spring in place (attached picture shows red line where i will attempt to place the fiber). Will let you know if I succeed.

Mine is now epoxied and working fine without the spring also but I can see how they might drop with the sunroof open. Will order the parts at some point and replace - I think it's near enough impossible to get the spring in and glue it back together - I think you would need to remove the rear sliding piece so you can slot in the spring, let the epoxy dry and then tension it by replacing the sliding piece.
Part number for my car is 54347174763 but your picture looks a little different (see the hook part of it has a little peg sticking out of it. You can find the part numbers at http://www.realoem.com

Our parts look alike (no pin). Thanks for confirming the part info.
I did repair mine today with epoxy and graphite fiber with the spring in place. First positioned the spring in the slot and wrapped around the lever with graphite/epoxy to hold in place. Then joined other side of lever and wrapped edge perimeter with graphite/epoxy. It's not beautiful, but may be stronger than the original. When I bought the car, both cables were intact and operational, but both locking hooks were broken. If this repair fails, I also will order new.

Hey guys,

I recently had the same problem, a broken hook mechanism. I ordered the part (54347174763), however as some of y'all have noted, this part has a little node sticking out of the hook mechanism. Mine does not, and I cannot use this part because of that node. Does anyone know what part number or specification the hook w/o the node is??

I can post a pic if needed.

Thx

Rich K.

I just had a look on RealOEM and it's difficult to make out if the diagram shows the node - I think it does - but I'm pretty sure that is the part number that BMW told me I needed. I guess your only option is to go and ask the BMW dealer. I can't see that there is another part number. Is it the same apart from that? Is it possible to grind that piece off or is there a different piece that you have to buy to fit at the top of the windscreen pillar?

Replaced both catch hook parts 6 months apart
 

I had to replace the part with the convertible top catch hook on it on both sides of my mini withing 6 months. The top guy said the mini parts guy told him these part break all the time. I paid $200 for the part and $200 for the installation twice. I though about doing it myself but my top guy talked me out of it as he said it was a pain. It looked like epoxy might work as it was a simple break both times. I have the broken part from the right side if someone wants it.

:popcorn:

Does the "locking hook, convertible top" assembly (P/N 54347174763) come with both sides? RealOEM only lists one part number, and the "quantity required" is just one, but the left and right sides are definitely different. The only way that makes sense to me is if that single part number gets you both the left and right assemblies.

Yes I'm sure you get the pair for the single part number. I asked the BMW dealer and they confirmed.

Thanks - now I just need to look at her car and figure out the "nub" versus "no nub" issue. The part number is the same for her early-2005 and my late-2006, but I think they're different parts, since mine definitely has the nub on it.

Scott - I would be interested to know how you get on with the 'nub' issue. Mine is working well held together with jbweld but would like to replace it really.

Will do. Because of the cost involved and that fact that we're almost done with what she considers "convertible weather", it may be April before I actually do the swap. But if the JB Weld has worked for you, I may suggest that we give that a try first. If it works, it works. If not, then she can start ordering new parts.

How long did it take you to remove/replace the locking hook assembly? Also, can you remove/replace it without affecting the alignment of the other convertible top parts?

It takes maybe 10 or 15 minutes to remove and about the same to replace. The JB weld bit takes a while as you have to get it lined up just right. I got some fast setting epoxy that is like JB weld - I cant remember what it was called but I think JB weld do a fast setting version - I then used various clamps to hold it together and built it up in layers.

To remove it you need to do the following....(from memory so may be a bit wrong)
1) open the sunroof.
2) there is a plastic cover on top and underneath the frame - its easier if you remove these - I think they are just held on with a single screw each - the bottom cover has a scre at the front on the inside of the car and the top cover has a screw you get at from underneath about halfway back. If you look up into the window channel you will see it. There may be another screw but I can't remember
3) there are 3 screws holding the rubber cover/window seal on the outside - you need to get a screwdriver in above the rubber seal to do this.
4) there is a screw on the inside that forms the pivot point for the hook - you need to take that out.
5) on the outside there are 2 screw that hold a plastic guide and another screw through the other pivot point I think
6) when you reassemble you have to make sure the slidey bit goes back into the right place - there is a piece that slides back and forth and it kinda fits in there - hard to explain but you'll know it when you see it.

It doesn't seem to mess up the alignment of the roof and I had mine on and off a few times and the alignment was fine.

Good luck - but it is really quite an easy job.

Just had a dig about on realoem and I think if you get parts with the nub then you may need to also replace the bits on top of the windscreen pillar....

17 BASE PLATE LEFT 1 54347079881 $71.54
17 BASE PLATE RIGHT 1 54347079882 $71.54

Thanks for the part numbers! If it's quick and easy to remove and replace these parts, I can move parts from my car onto her car until I figure out what's needed to make a "nub" locking rod work on a "pre-nub" MINI.

Just a note on fast setting JB weld or epoxy. The fast stuff is not as strong and tends to be more brittle. So in this use, I would suggest the longer curing stuff.

I think you're right about those parts. I'm having a similar issue with my wife's 2005 convert. I ordered the pair of locking hooks and noticed they have the "nubs". I think the "A" pillar cover would need to be replaced also. The nubs hit the cover. Is there a notch on the later "A" pillar covers? Comparing the old and new parts everything matches except the nubs. Thinking about just grinding them down.

Hi - this is quite an old post now - I glued my locking catches back to gether a couple of times - but I just need to bite the bullet and replace.

Did anyone get to the bottom of the little pin/nub thing? can it just be ground off?