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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
wow so you cleaned the entire thing out? hmm...I think that the spring's which actuate the valves wear out. Its not simply a matter of clogging.
I would think eventually yes. I'm on my second or third valve cover depending on the count. I'll replace it if it needs to be replaced. I do suspect the hose going to my intake manifold might be contributing to the leak. I just might need to replace that first. But, it would be nice if there was a maintenance procedure that put off buying one by at least a year or so.
I might have my original cover that was replaced because the mechanic damaged it. Looks bad physically but might be a good backup and test if I start fooling around with the hose.
Change the hose. Its super easy assuming you can get under your car easily. I did mine when I did the cover. Its like $23. But pull yours first and check it. Mine was ok. Not clogged nor cracked.
I just put on the second valve cover (plus the one that came on the car) at 150k miles. Crazy waste of money.
Change the hose. Its super easy assuming you can get under your car easily. I did mine when I did the cover. Its like $23. But pull yours first and check it. Mine was ok. Not clogged nor cracked.
I just put on the second valve cover (plus the one that came on the car) at 150k miles. Crazy waste of money.
The hose is pretty easy to get to. I'll see if they have one in stock at the dealership and if they're overpriced I'll look online. There's o-rings on that hose and they typically wear out too.
My PCV filter is clean but the engine coverage has one valve inside the inlet that goes in turbocharger and this valve stays in bloc position. The air cannot enter to equal the pressure.
I think is resolved.
I opened again the small coverage and I have to wait 1-2 hours till the adhesive will get tight.
So, actually there are 2 circuits between turbo inlet and admission inlet.
One - direct circuit but the red flap do not permit the air to use this root.
Secund circuit is under the small coverage glued. See the picture in first post. The red flap direct the air here and mine wasn't quite clean. This is normal flow of air. Fresh air comes from filter (outside), enter in engine and then it is suked with unburn gas into the second valve(one way) and then in admission.
Seems yesterday I cleaned the direct circuit.
inside engine coverage there is NO FILTER or something else. Just some channels - if I can say like this.
I have to mention that I removed the round cone highligt in picture, to let more space for air.
Usually it has some spaces around. But, because the coverage is not new, I chose to remove it.
Seems PCV valve is working fine. I don't see any reason why it should not work.
You have to open the glued small coverage of the valve and clean inder the small coverage. This is the flow of the air.
I'll try to put a small movie on youtube, maybe it can help.
Overall the price of this valve is hugeeee. 400$ for a plastic with 2-3 channels inside is too much.
We have it for about low $300's plus free ship. If the valve cover is cracked itself and hissing (CEL) or leaking oil then you have to replace the whole cover anyway. But if everything is fine and its just the cover, then that's a quick fix. They did update the cover part numbers over the years, what I dont know is if the cover internal material changed. Seems like 2007-2010 era covers had the most issues.
What type of glue are you using to reseal? I like the idea or the carbon flush.
Seems PCV valve is working fine. I don't see any reason why it should not work.
You have to open the glued small coverage of the valve and clean inder the small coverage. This is the flow of the air.
I'll try to put a small movie on youtube, maybe it can help.
Overall the price of this valve is hugeeee. 400$ for a plastic with 2-3 channels inside is too much.
after cleaning it now its not making the sound? please make a video. I want to avoid buying a new valve cover. what glue should be used to reattach it? seems like some type of thick glue should be used like RTV silicone to create a waterproof seal.
what about soaking the pcv side portion of the valve cover in a degreaser like maybe purple power overnight? what I want to know is if I need to remove the glued on top or can I leave it on?
I am also with the issue in the video that Gabe3 posted
I want to know if cleaning the valve cover worked/is a good option. Also is forking over the 427$ for a new one at mini dealer or can i found one on ebay?
well I soaked my valve cover in purple power degreaser for 18 hours, then washed the two holes out with water and put my finger in to keep the valve flaps open while I flushed it out. water came out the orange valve on the bottom side of the valve cover too. I drained the water completely till I heard no more sloshing around inside. I sucked air with my mouth on that bottom valve and blew on the far right hole too. air seemed to flow and the valve flaps open and closed depending if I blew or sucked. I put everything back together tonight and didn't fix it. still sucks air and the oil cap is stuck on while the car is running.
before and after I put it in degreaser, I checked the two valve flaps and they open and close easily just by gravity. so those possibly being stuck wasn't the issue.
it was worth a shot, but I guess I have to buy a new valve cover.
Its not serviceable. You need to buy another entire cover.
Even if you could see the diaphragm, you wouldn't necessarily be able to diagnose it. The spring keeping it closed may be weak and that's not easily diagnosed.
Can anyone tell me how to take the small top cover off where the pcv valve is located?
I'm trying to get to the pcv diaphragm to see if it needs to be replaced. I found the pcv diaphragm for sale on eBay from Russia.
Please let me know how it's done, I tried to pull it off but I'm not sure I was doing it right. Haha.
Thank you.
the top can be pried off with enough force I think, then you would have to glue it back on. the diaphragm is enclosed under the top, theres no way to get to it without cutting it's own cover off.
the top can be pried off with enough force I think, then you would have to glue it back on. the diaphragm is enclosed under the top, theres no way to get to it without cutting it's own cover off.
Thats cheapest Ive ever seen BUT make sure its the latest design or you just wasted $260. That's a new EBAY seller. He may be selling old stock.
I wouldnt risk it. Go to ECSTuning.
why do you think hes a new seller? he's been a member since 2011. Im not sure if theres a model number on the cover itself. I saw some numbers on the under side of my old and new cover, but they didn't look like the model numbers I've seen online, I think they were serial numbers. do you know? the original valve covers still last at least 30k miles, so not exactly a waste. especially if you don't plan to keep the car that much longer.
I know the newer revisions have writing on the right side of the valve cover. it says megalast or something I never actually read it, lol. so thats how I knew it was a newer revision than the one I had.
