Hey everyone i am having some issues with my clutch/gearbox/cables.....not sure, and I've also comb through most of the clutch postings with no definite answers, anyways i purchased the mini S back in January and every thing was fine but when the temperature got hot outside i notice it is a little hard to get the car into gear from a complete stop, then it occasionally grinds when shifting to 3rd.(not a novice at stick shift my other cars are)
all this is sometime taken care of by me pumping the clutch, so i though the system needed to be bleed, i replaced the slave cylinder and bleed it properly using clamps to compress the slave and got rid of all air but the problem still exists.

Runs fine when cool or day is cool

The engagement point of the clutch is like an inch off the floor board and there is no slippage.

There is a clatter at idle that goes away if the clutch is pressed.

I smell clutch whenever i stop.

Whats the culprit? my foot is getting tired from pumping.

thanks for any response

 

Bleed more ....more....more....air still in the system.

 

A worn out clutch usually grips a bit more when it warms up...
Metal expands a tiny bit....and it let's the remaining clutch material work....
Bleed more....and hope it is not the syncro....
Might be worth liking at the cables and lubing them...under the airbox I think...

 

got fed up and started on the clutch........discovered a badly worn clutch.......probably 1mm before stud making contact with flywheel,

What brand is the oem kit for the 03 MCS?.........found an LUK kit on there

 

Sachs and LUK are both OEM manufactures for the MINI clutches.

 

Wow, that looks just like my garage right now. Any recommendations on a clutch for the R50? We're looking for a nice price instead of super performance. Car currently has 82k on it.

Val

 

I 2nd this.........should i get a non spring or spring clutch for the mcs.

 

It depends on your choice of flywheel....dampened oem (dual mass) or cheaper non dampened....
Call a vendor like waymotorworks...the few extra $ you spend will be well with doing it right the first time....
using the wrong one, can result in self enguagement or rough operation...
the oem is best for most...other cheaper options give up signafigant smoothness of idle...the dual mass oem one makes the idle smooth....

 

Going on what ZippyNH said, dual-mass flywheels should have an unsprung clutch. Single-mass flywheels should have a sprung clutch.

If you opt for an OEM replacement clutch, Carolina Clutch has the kit for ~$145: http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx.

If you opt for an aftermarket clutch, Eurosport Design has a good price on a SPEC Stage I clutch, which is good for up to 235 lbs. clamping force: http://www.eurosportdesign.com/p-124...utch-kits.aspx. The price says $330, but $60 will be deducted when you make the choice at the bottom (meaning it's $270). Make sure to pick "sprung" if you opt for an aftermarket single-mass flywheel (mentioned below).

As for an aftermarket single-mass flywheel, it's best not to go below 50% weight reduction to help prevent chatter. The stock dual-mass is 27 lbs. You can get the ACT Streetlite flywheel from Import Image Racing for $365: http://www.importimageracing.com/p/A...-Cooper-S.html. It weighs 13.8 lbs.

 

Thanks for the speedy responses guys........after thoroughly checking the LUK DMF i have , Ive decided its worthy to do a second term so i will be ordering the Luk unsprung clutch kit.

i will post th results . Thanks again.

 

Finally got the mini back on the road......had to pause operations due to vacation

Now for anyone with experiencing the probs mentioned in my initial post....YES your clucth is shot. the end

Also want to thank Minguru/Waysmotorworks for helping out of a sticky situation....(damaged my shifter cables and the black plastic mount they sit in that bolt to the gearbox) when the gear box fell off the jack ........need an extra set of hands. contacted Ways got the entire assembly for a great price.

clutch feel like butter.