Those that are having engine failures
#1
Those that are having engine failures
please take a look at what's happening with the M3's, which I think is happening with the later year MINI models. The first gen MINI's are so far pretty much "safe".
All those posting here of their engine's dying, MINI mechanics opening up the valve cover and suspect the timing chain is broken, bolts are coming off, cam gears are shot, etc.
It really has nothing to do with oil and filter changes whether you change it every 3K, 5K, 10K, 15K. Many M3 owners are just as OCD about doing their own oil changes religiously. The failed part (cam gear bolts or screw) is based on mileage alone.
Not from using dinosaur oil or synthenic, not from using wrong weights, not from wrong specs, etc. (to a certain extent, of course). Not from adding super duper crank pulley's, aftermarket exhaust, CAI, bigger injectors, none of any items to improve performances have any factor at all in the bolt's failing.
Not sure of the failed parts cost for MINI's but the M3's is about $0.70 a bolt/screw.
If you want to have your oil analyzed, here's some bits of info from an M3 site and poster:
Blackstone recently raised their price to $25.00 per analysis. The oil test kit is free and they only charge you when they perform the analysis. Their turnaround time is amazing even through regular mail. If you provide them your email address, they will provide you with the results almost immediately after the results are compiled. Here's their address: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
But also, note what was written back to the M3 OP from Blackstone (in regards to the known cam bolt failure):
Because their oil analysis process does not inspect for particles that would be visible to the naked eye or visible under some magnification, it would be best to dissect the engine oil filter and inspect for very fine particles of iron that would dislodge in the filter. That being said however, if you have your oil analyzed especially under a consistent oil run (having your oil analyzed say every 7.5k miles for example) there would be a trend of an increase in iron in the oil measured in PPM. This number would then be compared to the baseline oil analysis (your first analysis with Blackstone) and/or from your previous oil analysis report if you have several on record.
Here's an added pic and videos, please remember are these from an M3 engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6RDVBHsCfg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_YvJ4_ZkJs
So now the question remains whether or not, MINI repairs being done to the failed engines are being done with better and stronger bolts or not. Since one owner here has already been thru this TWICE.
All those posting here of their engine's dying, MINI mechanics opening up the valve cover and suspect the timing chain is broken, bolts are coming off, cam gears are shot, etc.
It really has nothing to do with oil and filter changes whether you change it every 3K, 5K, 10K, 15K. Many M3 owners are just as OCD about doing their own oil changes religiously. The failed part (cam gear bolts or screw) is based on mileage alone.
Not from using dinosaur oil or synthenic, not from using wrong weights, not from wrong specs, etc. (to a certain extent, of course). Not from adding super duper crank pulley's, aftermarket exhaust, CAI, bigger injectors, none of any items to improve performances have any factor at all in the bolt's failing.
Not sure of the failed parts cost for MINI's but the M3's is about $0.70 a bolt/screw.
If you want to have your oil analyzed, here's some bits of info from an M3 site and poster:
Blackstone recently raised their price to $25.00 per analysis. The oil test kit is free and they only charge you when they perform the analysis. Their turnaround time is amazing even through regular mail. If you provide them your email address, they will provide you with the results almost immediately after the results are compiled. Here's their address: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
But also, note what was written back to the M3 OP from Blackstone (in regards to the known cam bolt failure):
Because their oil analysis process does not inspect for particles that would be visible to the naked eye or visible under some magnification, it would be best to dissect the engine oil filter and inspect for very fine particles of iron that would dislodge in the filter. That being said however, if you have your oil analyzed especially under a consistent oil run (having your oil analyzed say every 7.5k miles for example) there would be a trend of an increase in iron in the oil measured in PPM. This number would then be compared to the baseline oil analysis (your first analysis with Blackstone) and/or from your previous oil analysis report if you have several on record.
Here's an added pic and videos, please remember are these from an M3 engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r6RDVBHsCfg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_YvJ4_ZkJs
So now the question remains whether or not, MINI repairs being done to the failed engines are being done with better and stronger bolts or not. Since one owner here has already been thru this TWICE.
Last edited by steve20607; 11-10-2010 at 05:10 PM. Reason: added info
#2
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Oil analysis or not, sketchy third-world suppliers of parts to the almighty BMW are doing these engines in. In BMW's quest to cut production costs, the lowest bidder wins--even if that machine "shop" is in some back-alley in Burkina Faso, and has no Q/C protocols. Building mills on the cheap will only create further problems down the road.
That is why when my warranty is up Election Day 2012, my MCS will be gone--and I will never buy another BMW product again. Altho I love this car, the turbo Prince motors are ticking time bombs. Even my SA admits they have some "very serious" issues.
That is why when my warranty is up Election Day 2012, my MCS will be gone--and I will never buy another BMW product again. Altho I love this car, the turbo Prince motors are ticking time bombs. Even my SA admits they have some "very serious" issues.
#3
Sequence: Is this your first BMW/MINI product? I, too, am concerned about the durability of my 2009 Clubby S (my first BMW product). Funny, I mentioned to my wife today that, as we approach the end of the warranity period, it will be time to sell the Clubby. Hope, I am wrong about all of this!
#4
I forgot to mention that BMW is aware of the inferior bolt/screw part, they not only changed the screwhead to a "star" design so that you know you're getting the revised part, but also guys that are doing their DYI cam gear changes, some are finding that BMW started using a blue color Loc-tite, so in some cases, some are finding zero problems, some still with the bolt coming off just before the other bolts start. BMW has still not acknowledged the cam gear bolts are of any problems despite all the anger and e-mails and letters sent to BMW USA.
Never had to take the MINI's valve cover off, but maybe one day, someone with a bit more experience or just out of curiosity will do a pictorial on how to open it and check the cam gear bolts since this is a fairly new issue but could save some serious money. Of course, it'd have to be done with those that are out of the warranty period.
It would seem to me that if the cam gear bolt is inferior, MINI should step up to the plate and offer a recall. It does not seem like a time-consuming repair and will save MINI some major bucks in the long run than to keep repairing more parts then are necessary and leaving the customers without a car for days or longer and leaving the uninformed customer with a bad taste for reliability and service.
While the percentage of affected M3's is small, you wonder how many people that are not into forums and just end up paying the thousands of dollars believing it's not the dealer's fault. Same goes for people who are not into the MINI forums.
But for those "in the know", buying a used M3 one must have the cam gear bolts checked or know the previous owner did the repair or take a chance. I'm sure there are plenty of buyers who don't know of this problem and buys it at their risk, even getting a PPI from the dealer does not guarantee that the bolts will shear off in the next week, month or year down the road.
In fact, M3's are also having major issues with their sub-frames cracking, but can be fixed and after lots of pressure from owners (thanks also to the various forums), got BMW to pay (from $800-1500) for the problem or if fixed from an indie, get reimbursed with receipts, up to the limit.
Again, same thing goes for a MINI seller and buyer, knowing that the engine can fail at any moment could lessen the re-sale price, depending on which side of the fence you're on.
Never had to take the MINI's valve cover off, but maybe one day, someone with a bit more experience or just out of curiosity will do a pictorial on how to open it and check the cam gear bolts since this is a fairly new issue but could save some serious money. Of course, it'd have to be done with those that are out of the warranty period.
It would seem to me that if the cam gear bolt is inferior, MINI should step up to the plate and offer a recall. It does not seem like a time-consuming repair and will save MINI some major bucks in the long run than to keep repairing more parts then are necessary and leaving the customers without a car for days or longer and leaving the uninformed customer with a bad taste for reliability and service.
While the percentage of affected M3's is small, you wonder how many people that are not into forums and just end up paying the thousands of dollars believing it's not the dealer's fault. Same goes for people who are not into the MINI forums.
But for those "in the know", buying a used M3 one must have the cam gear bolts checked or know the previous owner did the repair or take a chance. I'm sure there are plenty of buyers who don't know of this problem and buys it at their risk, even getting a PPI from the dealer does not guarantee that the bolts will shear off in the next week, month or year down the road.
In fact, M3's are also having major issues with their sub-frames cracking, but can be fixed and after lots of pressure from owners (thanks also to the various forums), got BMW to pay (from $800-1500) for the problem or if fixed from an indie, get reimbursed with receipts, up to the limit.
Again, same thing goes for a MINI seller and buyer, knowing that the engine can fail at any moment could lessen the re-sale price, depending on which side of the fence you're on.
Last edited by steve20607; 11-11-2010 at 06:46 PM. Reason: added info
#5
Steve 20607, although I see what you are saying, regarding the possible failure of the BMW M3 vanos unit, there is no direct link to the BMW Mini Copper S or JCW N14/B16A (prince) engines.
So before anybody gets too concerned, regarding the vanos unit on the N14/B16A (Prince) engines, the vanos unit is a completely different design to that on the BMW M3 engine.
The common problem with the timing components on the N14/B16A engines are;
Timing chain tensioner, revised with a 10mm longer piston rod, to take up the chain stretch.
However the revised 10mm longer tensioner, will not stop the fact, that the tensioner will still suffer from poor start up oil feed.
Camshaft sprocket bolts, the central bolts securing the camshafts sprockets to the camshafts, are the only method of secure fixing, the best way would be to have a keyway to offer assistance to the central locking bolt, this would prevent any camshaft to sprocket slippage.
Crankshaft sprocket bolt, again this has just the 1 central securing bolt, and would be better with a keyway, again to prevent any possible slippage.
Now for anybody ready this and thinking, oh **** could my engines timing come loose ?
Simple answer NO, DO NOT PANIC, the central securing bolts have a very tight securing torque applied.
Crankshaft central securing bolt: 50Nm (37 lb/ft) + 100 degree torque angle.
Camshaft central securing bolt: Inlet sprocket (vanos) 20Nm (15 lb/ft) + 180 degree torque angle.
Camshaft central securing bolt: Exhaust sprocket: 20Nm (15 lb/ft) + 90 degree torque angle.
VERY IMPORTANT, the central securing bolts, MUST be REPLACED each and every time they are disturbed (undone) NEVER EVER re-use them!
Front face of Inlet vanos unit with securing bolt.
Rear of Inlet vanos unit.
Mock up of the sprockets in position (not timed up correctly)
Timing components.
Timing guides, showing dipstick position.
Timing chain tensioner (original) NOT the 10mm revised unit.
Timing chain tensioner in position with chain guide.
Tensioner in position without chain guide in place.
Relative positions of the electronic/hydraulic vanos control solenoid valve, and the timing chain tensioner.
Electronic/hydraulic vanos control solenoid valve.
So before anybody gets too concerned, regarding the vanos unit on the N14/B16A (Prince) engines, the vanos unit is a completely different design to that on the BMW M3 engine.
The common problem with the timing components on the N14/B16A engines are;
Timing chain tensioner, revised with a 10mm longer piston rod, to take up the chain stretch.
However the revised 10mm longer tensioner, will not stop the fact, that the tensioner will still suffer from poor start up oil feed.
Camshaft sprocket bolts, the central bolts securing the camshafts sprockets to the camshafts, are the only method of secure fixing, the best way would be to have a keyway to offer assistance to the central locking bolt, this would prevent any camshaft to sprocket slippage.
Crankshaft sprocket bolt, again this has just the 1 central securing bolt, and would be better with a keyway, again to prevent any possible slippage.
Now for anybody ready this and thinking, oh **** could my engines timing come loose ?
Simple answer NO, DO NOT PANIC, the central securing bolts have a very tight securing torque applied.
Crankshaft central securing bolt: 50Nm (37 lb/ft) + 100 degree torque angle.
Camshaft central securing bolt: Inlet sprocket (vanos) 20Nm (15 lb/ft) + 180 degree torque angle.
Camshaft central securing bolt: Exhaust sprocket: 20Nm (15 lb/ft) + 90 degree torque angle.
VERY IMPORTANT, the central securing bolts, MUST be REPLACED each and every time they are disturbed (undone) NEVER EVER re-use them!
Front face of Inlet vanos unit with securing bolt.
Rear of Inlet vanos unit.
Mock up of the sprockets in position (not timed up correctly)
Timing components.
Timing guides, showing dipstick position.
Timing chain tensioner (original) NOT the 10mm revised unit.
Timing chain tensioner in position with chain guide.
Tensioner in position without chain guide in place.
Relative positions of the electronic/hydraulic vanos control solenoid valve, and the timing chain tensioner.
Electronic/hydraulic vanos control solenoid valve.
#6
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Sequence: Is this your first BMW/MINI product? I, too, am concerned about the durability of my 2009 Clubby S (my first BMW product). Funny, I mentioned to my wife today that, as we approach the end of the warranity period, it will be time to sell the Clubby. Hope, I am wrong about all of this!
#7
Not to hijack the thread but I've never even heard of the M3 problems you describe and I had a 2003 E46 for 56K miles and currently have a 2007 MCoupe with the same S54 engine. There was a known issue with rod bearings on early engines i.e. 2000-2002, but corrective maintenance was offered on affected engines, and my 2003 got a 6 yr/100K engine warranty added. I frequent Bimmerfest, mostly the Z forum, but I think the S54 is generally considered pretty robust.
I will agree that the older the E46 cars get, there will be more failures, but mostly caused by lack of maintenance and care by multiple owners as they get cheaper to buy.
I will agree that the older the E46 cars get, there will be more failures, but mostly caused by lack of maintenance and care by multiple owners as they get cheaper to buy.
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#8
Hey Czar, okay, thanks for the pics and possible explanation of the parts seen.
Yea, I agree with having a keyway might be the best solution to the current rash of reported engine failures, that will definitely add some strength to the sprocket (I'm only a weekend mechanic, so the details you mentioned was pretty interesting).
Maybe if MINI USA's reading these threads, they might forge a better part or a better alternative.
I'm wondering if you're able to get any pics of the engines that have failed tho? Or if anyone that had their cars in the shop if they will allow you view them? I don't see why not, but can understand if they don't let you take them home.
I do have vested interest as in the near future, we plan to look into another Mini in the 08-09 built years, just wanted to make sure that issue gets cleared up by the time we're ready to pull the trigger.
Yea, I agree with having a keyway might be the best solution to the current rash of reported engine failures, that will definitely add some strength to the sprocket (I'm only a weekend mechanic, so the details you mentioned was pretty interesting).
Maybe if MINI USA's reading these threads, they might forge a better part or a better alternative.
I'm wondering if you're able to get any pics of the engines that have failed tho? Or if anyone that had their cars in the shop if they will allow you view them? I don't see why not, but can understand if they don't let you take them home.
I do have vested interest as in the near future, we plan to look into another Mini in the 08-09 built years, just wanted to make sure that issue gets cleared up by the time we're ready to pull the trigger.
Last edited by steve20607; 11-12-2010 at 08:03 AM. Reason: spelling
#9
Not to hijack the thread but I've never even heard of the M3 problems you describe and I had a 2003 E46 for 56K miles and currently have a 2007 MCoupe with the same S54 engine. There was a known issue with rod bearings on early engines i.e. 2000-2002, but corrective maintenance was offered on affected engines, and my 2003 got a 6 yr/100K engine warranty added. I frequent Bimmerfest, mostly the Z forum, but I think the S54 is generally considered pretty robust.
I will agree that the older the E46 cars get, there will be more failures, but mostly caused by lack of maintenance and care by multiple owners as they get cheaper to buy.
I will agree that the older the E46 cars get, there will be more failures, but mostly caused by lack of maintenance and care by multiple owners as they get cheaper to buy.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=330286
Yes, the earlier M3 models did have the bearing recalls and BMW ante up to that flaw.
Are you also aware of the sub-frame cracking, get that checked out too.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=277232
I am happy to report that my M3 has passed all test and inspected by myself, the dealership and an independent shop for both the bolts (replaced myself) and the sub-frame (no cracks.) The MINI has just a little over 75K miles and running like new (knock on wood).
Will I buy another M3? Absolutely!
Will I buy another MINI? In a heartbeat!
Last edited by steve20607; 11-12-2010 at 08:28 AM. Reason: added info
#10
Check out the M3 forums, do a search on Vanos bolts. Here's just one of many threads: (probably over 20 plus separate good topics, stopped counting)
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=330286
Yes, the earlier M3 models did have the bearing recalls and BMW ante up to that flaw.
Are you also aware of the sub-frame cracking, get that checked out too.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=277232
I am happy to report that my M3 has passed all test and inspected by myself, the dealership and an independent shop for both the bolts (replaced myself) and the sub-frame (no cracks.)
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=330286
Yes, the earlier M3 models did have the bearing recalls and BMW ante up to that flaw.
Are you also aware of the sub-frame cracking, get that checked out too.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=277232
I am happy to report that my M3 has passed all test and inspected by myself, the dealership and an independent shop for both the bolts (replaced myself) and the sub-frame (no cracks.)
It's interesting how the topics of interest change with time. When the E46 was current, the rod bearing issue was a constant topic although the number of actual failed engines was pretty low. Now, with more miles and time on them, looks like some other things are cropping up.
#11
A good friend just had the VANOS replaced on his E85 M roadster. Guess what? The tech found that the cam gear bolts had almost all backed out. (70K miles...) It was just a matter of time b4 one comes out and take the engine with it. He'd been houning BMW to replace the vanos for 2 years before you actually relented and did it. He bought the car CPO with 4K miles.
Before that, he had a E46 M3, that got a new engine at 42K because of the cam bolts ...
He sure gets his money out of the BMW warranty...lol
Before that, he had a E46 M3, that got a new engine at 42K because of the cam bolts ...
He sure gets his money out of the BMW warranty...lol
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