Well, Lil Mick is having issues today.

I try to start it and all the lights come on as usual but it doesn't crank.

I took the battery to Autozone, said it was good.



Anyone else encountered this type of problem?

I am working on getting AAA so I can get it to MINI> my warranty just lapsed so it's on me. Any help or thoughts would be terrific!

It had happened once or twice before but on the second try started right up with no problem at all. I have never had any rough sounding starts.

I did notice that a couple of times it took 2 to 3 seconds before the car would start to turn over....

Thank in advance !!

 

It's an automatic..

 

Check the fuse box to the right of the battery for corrosion. Try to find a good independent shop for the repairs. The dealer will charge you double what you really should pay. I think Waymotorworks has a shop in Indy. Good luck

 

Well, I may try looking at the fuse box. Thank you.

I just got a AAA membership and they are on their way to take it to the stealership so here we go.. warranty lapsed July11th , let the fun begin!!!!

 

I am noticing that it is a bit slow to start. A few days ago it didnt turn over again. I got out, jiggled some "wires" and things in the battery compartment in trunk and it started. Corner guys say the battery is good but I think maybe it is old? Original battery in an 06/06 so perhaps? Any one diagnose me problem? ty!

 

It would be one thing if it wouldn't start at home but it is always while I'm at work!!!

 

I replaced the battery and still no turning over when I hold the key to on. I move some wires around on the ignition coil and suddenly it starts right up. I have done that 4 or 5 times in the last month. I guess I am headed in for service. I'll make sure the terminals are really clean first..any ideas?

 

The coil pack is known to get corrosion on the terminals (#3 is usual). Pull the wires off the coil pack (the box on the back of the valve cover) and use some emery cloth or sandpaper to shine the contacts. New wires and/or coil pack will do the same thing. I would probably buy wires and shine the pack since fixing the contact is simple, but any corrosion on the wire clip can't be seen of fixed easily. Wires are not expensive.

Also, the wires make a "click" when pushed onto the spark plugs. If they just touch, it might work, but poorly. Pull each wire off the plug and push them down enough to feel the click.

It also could be a starter going bad. The wire jiggle is just coincidental since you have apparently moved wires at both ends of the car and it "fixed" the issue.

EDIT: Rereading the issue made me realize this isn't likely to help you. No crank is different than crank and no start which is what my advice is for.

 

The bentley manual says if there is no cranking it is the EWS System. The key sending a pulse to the immobilizer device. The inside of the key looks very clean and it works for door locks. Any other thoughts from anyone before I have to take him to the stealer next week? thank you.

 

I think you mentioned its an automatic, if so, make sure the shift is in park and jiggle it..also try neutral. If a stick, do the same with the clutch pedal. Each has its own way to prevent a start if in gear.

 

Thanks very much for the help. I don't have a volt meter or the equipment/ability to change out the starter. If I can get it to start again soon I guess I 'm off to the dealer.

I guess that's the only option at this point?

 

I had the little dude towed to MINI today. Any one have an Idea what parts and labor for a new starter might run me?

 

Well it turns out there was a loose wire somewhere dang!

I just got a $56 car wash

Oh well atleast it wasn't 600 bucks now back to your regularly scheduled programs!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Glad to hear it was just a loose wire.

 

Thanks so much! I guess it was the loose positive battery terminal under the hood. Sooo glad to have this resolved! I can get back to enjoying and modding!

Mods feel free to lock/delete this thread It's a tad embarrassing but either way I don't really mind. Someone else is bound to have the same problem eventually..

 

Nah, it should remain. A reminder that not all problems cost alot of $$$. Besides, someone else is bound to have the same problem.

 

Similar problem! I just had the NCC1701 towed to a specialty place, they have told me it's either the key or the EWS. I went ahead and paid for the extra key (i needed one anyway). Hopefully that starts it up. What is this Bentley Manual you are talking about? Is it a service manual?

 

Bentley Publishers is a 3rd-party company like Chilton that makes repair manuals. The one for the MINI is great. They have only made one thus far for 1st-gens. Here's a link: http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base. And $41 is a steal! I paid $70 for mine way back when, and that was a deal considering they retail now for $139.95 (that retail price quoted in that link I provided is wrong).

 

I think I have the same problem. Car has been running great. Stopped for lunch, go out and nothing. No crank, no clicking, no gauges moving, no fuel pump sounds. Nothing. Also, both keyless remotes all of sudden are not working. Power door locks inside the car do not work, so I can't even get in the trunk to access the battery.

It is a 2003 Mini Cooper S (Manual). Thoughts??

 

It's possible that the key may no longer work with the EWS. It's not uncommon for Mini's manufactured before 2006 to have this issue. I have a 2004 R50 that just had this issue. The key quit working, had to get a new one, and that new one had to be aligned with the EWS of the car. Valet key shouldn't run you more than $60, and a master key no more than $150. You'll have to take it to a shop that has the actual DIAGNOSTIC equipment to figure it out.

 

Double checked all the connections and the positive battery cable (in the trunk / connected to the battery directly) was very loose. Tightened it back down, car started right up and off we go.

Sometimes the easiest solutions are right ones! Yeah !!

 

Glad you fixed it.

As for good contact, take a small adjustable mirror (and a flashlight if needed) and check to make sure the cables are flush against the terminal bases. If they are not, loosen them again and use a socket and extension to tap them down until they bottom out. Something like a 14mm or 15mm should work. There should be only mild marks on the tops of the cable ends when you are done.

If the terminals appeared to be oxidized in any way, take the cables off and hit them with a brass brush. You can also buy a can of terminal protectant to help prevent further corrosion/oxidation. Just make sure you spray it on after you tighten the cables. The spray is not supposed to be in between them and the terminals themselves.

 

Thanks. I was very happy it was such an easy fix. The car had a new battery, starter and alternator (recently replaced) before I bought it. I know those things (except the battery), are fairly expensive, so I was very happy about the free repair.