Hi guys,
Limp mode is my car chronic disease...i dont know what wrong with it i took it to several shop and no problems were found. Finally, i got smart and bought me the Bavarian tool.
Here is the following text from Bavarian tool Test conditions have been completed : short circuit or signal interruption. I am thinking of replacing the MAP sensors.
Anyone know where is the map sensor signal value from the Bavarian actual values list. How do you you if the map is reading properly?

Thanks in advance.

 

This fault is normally set either when a boost tube falls off, or the turbo is not making boost either due to a locked up compressor, or wastegate not actuating properly, or one of your map sensors is acting up.

If a boost tube develops a hole in it or falls off, it will cause a charged air leak and therefore your car will not run like it is supposed to and go into limp mode. Check the hoses at the turbo outlet, the bottom of the interocooler on both sides, the upper hose next to the battery and at the throttle body. If all connections seem good and tight, that is not your problem.

If the vacuum lines get oil soaked and spongy they will fall off of the wastegate or vacuum pump connections (near the front left side fo the motor if you are looking at it) When this happens no wastegate actuation is possible and the car will not boost, all charge air goes to atmosphere. There is a solenoid in the lines also that regulates vacuum going to the reservour on the back of the block. The reservour is on the lower right side of the engine block, it is bolted behind the right side axleshaft (the only axle that is held in with bolts) Check the vacuum connections for breakage and the reservour for cracks.

If the turbocharger is failing, you can check by pulling off the inlet tube that goes to the mass air flow sensor, and with the car not running, not running, not running, put your finger into the hole and see fi the turbocharger veins spin freely. The turbo should spin easily and feel smooth, it should not have any end play and you should feel a little nut on the end of the shaft. If you can move the shaft up, down or side to side, the turbo is junk. Usually turbo's sound like crap when the car is running and shoudl be in boost.

Last resort is faulty map sensors. Check the connections and that tehy are sealing the boost tube and intake manifold correctly.

Good luck

 

Thanks for your reply.
I did smoke test for leaks, checked the the wastegate and it operates normally. No mechanical problems are found. How hard it is to replace the MAP sensor?

 

the one on the boost tube is a 2 second task, remove the bolt, unplug, install in reverse order.

the map on the intake manifold, you just take out the air box (t25 and loosen whatever hose you feel like) and then its right there next ot the bulkhead.

 

Would like to know what the answer is to this one. I've got the same fault showing on my car. I decided to replace the turbocharger with a brand new unit as I felt the turbo bearings had too much resistance. This turned out to be the wrong fix. As part of replacing the turbo the wastegate and blow-off valve are renewed as they are part of the new turbo unit.

I plan to replace the 'pressure converter' next. That is the device that controls pressure to the wastegate. It's a little servo type thing at the end of a long vac hose and it's mounted right around the back of the engine under the inlet manifold.

Please let me know if you find out the problem in the meantime.

 

Not sure if the '07+ MCS has MAP sensors. The '02-06' MCS's have a speed density setup using dual MAP sensors. The '07+ models have a mass airflow (MAF) sensor. The part on the intake manifold is referred to as a sensor for inlet pressure.

 

MAP=Manifold Absolute Pressure. Probably same thing as inlet pressure sensor at the manifold. 2 different names for same type of device.

 

Depends on if you are European or American. In America the cars have a Airflow Meter. This is the older way of calculating airflow but I'm guessing it is something to do with American emmissions regulations. The European cars don't have the same restrictive intake device. Our engines calculate airflow using two small sensors.

First the air passes the combined temp and pressure sensor. That is mounted just next to the timing chain end of the engine. The second sensor is a MAP sensor which measures the pressure of the air in the manifold.

Don't ask me how it all works. But those are the sensors on the European spec cars. There is no airflow meter.

 

Removing the mass airflow sensor would drastically change the overall design of the computer system used to manage the amount of air and fuel entering the engine for combustion. I find it really hard to believe it's different for European cars. However, I'm sure somewhere out there is a link explaining so, or a diagram showing how it's used? If they are different, I'm intrigued to find out.

Link for mass airflow (MAF) sensor: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor. Be careful how much oil you put on aftermarket air filters (e.g. K&N).

Link for manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor (a.k.a. speed density): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_absolute_pressure. Says in the first paragraph MAF or MAP is used; seldom are both technologies combined.

To my best knowledge, both techologies came out in the mid-80s. Mustangs use MAF. '86-'89 Camaros used MAF. '90-'93 went MAP. '94-'02 went back to MAF.

 

I have been fighting this p2885 for 3 yrs now, I am so sick and tired of checking for leaks and connections that it makes me sick! It seems nobody really knows what p2885 is, we know what it says it is, but think of this...If there is no boost leak, your wastegate is working properly and so is your turbo, you have replaced the sensors"BOTH" also replaced all vac lines to and from the wastegate to vac box, replaced the HPFP, the vac pump. replaced the turbo inlet, boost tubes hot and cold, the diverter valve..Had the intake pressure tested, no leaks found..Had a smoke test no smoke found..Ok so what is it????I think it is some kind of electrical thing, it has nothing to do with boost if you are driving along with cruise control on at 70 and it comes on and falls into limp mode..If it were a boost issue wouldnt it do it under boost always?????? To my knowlege, you are not under heavy or any boost at 70 with the cruise on???? So lets forget about boost!! What else can it be? HELP ME I am ready to fix the boost problem by sticking dynamite in the intake and blowing the freaking thing into many mini pieces. Bad enough i have almost 10 grand in this damn thing as it is olus the fact i bought it new?? I replaced the engine at 92,000 due to a faulty timing chain tensioner, no help from mini ofcourse.. $7100.00 to replace the engine and still falls into limp mode, BS....

 

Very sorry to hear about your situation, and can hear the frustration in your post. At this point I would think that you have to look at you turbo as being the problem.

I had the same code and went through the same steps of testing the different known components and the code remained. In my case I was able to verify that the wastegate was indeed broken. It was staying closed hit or miss. When the vacuum/boost system cannot keep the gate closed then you get a boost leak. The wastegate is there to keep the turbo from spooling endlessly and creating so much pressure it has a potential to blow up. The ecu sees the pressure drop as a bad thing cause it has the system under vacuum and that means the waste gate should be closed. Since it isn't the ECU puts the car in limp mode. (My understanding since I am no mechanic.)

You are correct that at 70mph you are not under boost. However, if you accelerate you are going to call for boost.

So if you want to check the wastegate to see if it is working you can do some simple tests. One is to remove the vac line from the wastegate actuator and apply a handheld vac pump to the actuator. If this holds then you should suspect the vac system. If while driving the car the hand pump cannot hold the gate closed, then perhaps the wastegate actuator or the wastegate is bad.

This video shows a bad wastegate. You can see where my gate was 2 floating discs on a hinge. Shouldn't be this way. Mine had 100,000 miles when it failed.

You can buy wastegate actuators and exhaust housings from jmturbocoopers.com. I opted to replace my entire turbo. Problem solved.

However, I did the work myself with help from friends. Not sure I would do it again. I might be more prone to trade the car in.

 

Hey Thank you for your input!! I have already done the vac test on the waastegate and it was holding pressure fine..it seemed to open fine and shut properly as well..Also when i replced the oil lines to the turbo i done a visual inspection and it seemed to be working properly too...Also when it falls into limp mode at 70 there is no acceleration, however, most of the time it is during acceleration but not always..Again at 70 with cruise with no deviation in acceleration...My turbo seemd fine even mini says it is ok, they said i would more than likely get other codes if turbo wasnt working properly///I checked the measurements on the actuator as well and they are perfect to the thread count and measurments..

 

Have you checked the cat converter on the downpipe? I don't see that on the list of things you have checked. I have had this p2885 problem many times on my racecar, which has been difficult to diagnose. On one occasion it was a melted and collapsed cat causing the problem. Due to the backpressure the turbo could not make target boost, causing the error code.

Sounds like you have tried most of the other common things

 

Did you check to see if there is oil in your intercooler? Sometimes it can leak down there and get sloshed around while driving, causing a split second block of charge air and causing the fault to be tripped. Most techs will check the connections to your intercooler but not inside the actual unit itself.

 

Hi my car is not getting any boost im missing one line from vacum solenoid i checked all hoses from small black box behind the engine and all lines are good my car was running very good but it sudenly stopped i cant find where this ATM line is missing and the car has 0 power but its not in limp mode my car diagnostic tool says charge air pressure control deviation i checked the turbo everything is fine MAP is good everything is good helpp