About a month ago my 07 MCS 6MT started acting up. In the morning when i would first start the car, the engine would run very rough and most of the time would stall out when I would take it out of reverse and put it into 1st right after backing out of the driveway. If it was a cold morning I could not even let the car warm up as the engine would start fine but stall out withing 30 seconds. Once the car was warmed up it would run fine. I made a trip to the dealer and they replaced the high pressure fuel pump under warranty.

Well the problem is back and this morning I got the engine malfunction light. A call will be placed to my dealer first thing in the morning, but im just curious if anyone can shed some light on what my problem might be. I have eliminated a bad fuel pump seeing that it was replaced approx 500 miles ago. I also have a feeling the dealer did not even check anything on my car when i sent it in the first time. I think they threw in a HPFP and called it a day without even seeing if the HPFP was really the issue.

Any thoughts?

 

It's a bit tough to diagnose without knowing what error code is being thrown to cause the malfunction light. Perhaps the prblem did not trigger a code last time and that's why the dealer took a shortcut. If you have a Pep Boys near you (or some other national chain), they will read the code for free for you. They'll be open today, too. Get back to us with the error code.

 

It's ok to drive the car even though the enfine malfunction light is on...right? Im at work right now and have about a 3 mile commute home.

 

While holding the button in on the end of the stalk in the check info screen it shows code CC-ID 031. Does anybody know what this code means?

 

I had a similar problem, and the dealership did a similar replacement...but they also had to replace the computer module governing the fuel pump. I was told that it was a glitch leftover from the 1st gen in the first '07s turned out. (It sounded like a plausible story anyway.) It's ok to drive short distances with the check engine light, but like he said - check w/ Pep Boys and call the dealer in the AM....and this time ask the "dumb" questions as to did they check the computer governance items for the replacement....?

Good luck.

 

It is reporting excessive emissions. Make certain your gas cap is plenty tight. These cars will not idle if the cap is loose.

 

HI
This was my experience with same problem and below was my reply back in June -09.
Had similar issues with my 07 MC S auto in extreme cold weather. Recently took it to Knauz mini, chicago and they have identified the problem code as
SIM 6100811( some thing written as Mixture adaptation too lean), SIM 2516565 (some problem with adjusting interlock cable) and perfomed update as per SIM120507 and SIM 240108 respectively.
Have to wait and see till next winter to see if this has really solved the problem.

Now it is next winter and problem remains same. Nothing different. I don't start driving until engine is warm enough. Iam glad i leased this car instead of buying it. It's a shame on BMW who couldn't figure out the solution in 6 years.

Somebody please let everyone know if there is a confirmed solution for this.
I did everything mentioned in this thread so far but nothing works out. Can't live with a car that embarasses me every winter like this.

 

Sounds like ice in the intake manifold....

 

I don't think its ice. It was pretty warm last week (34 degrees in early Feb is pretty warm for WI!!)

I got the car back from the dealer and they ran a fuel bleed down test and said everything looked fine. They also reprogrammed the entire ECU. I have now had the car back for 2 days and each day it has stalled out on me at least once. International MINI in Milwaukee did not fix a thing.

I might do a Seafoam treatment today and see if that helps anything.

 

Anything like this:

http://www.youtube.com/user/edcwhite.../0/dkbzQmpuiXc

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d-insight.html

Will have to wait 3 weeks to see if my car will be any better after all of this...

 

M1sterWhite: This is exactly what my car does too.

Please post when you get your car back and let us know if the problem is fixed. Is this all covered under warranty or is this considered "normal wear and tear".

 

All the work they are doing on my car is covered under warranty.

 

Joining the club. Have an appointment next week to address this same issue. I already had the timing chain tensioner replaced with the updated version, a main seal replaced, and every winter this stalling issue keeps happening. Usually it occurs to me when the outside temp is below 25 degrees. We'll see what the excuse is this time. Keep in mind that I own a 2007 MCS with 35,000 babied miles on it and change the oil every 5k and only put 93 octane in it (yes I screw in the gas cap properly every time). WTF MINI .....

 

i would bet carbon is collecting on the intake valves, especaily cyl.3 and 4

 

I am having the same problem will not idle, no power, happens when it gets down into the 20 degree F range. I think the dealer is going to replace the HPFP again. If they try the Bad Gas bit on you ask your SA, how BMW can sell MINIs in Brazil where the minimum ethanol content is 25%.

 

I am having similar issues with my 07 Mini Cooper S auto. I had the chain tensioner fix Dec 15 09 with 8024 miles because it threw the P2188 code and sounded like crap on startup. Well here I am again, my mini threw the same code yesterday. My mini sounds and feels rough again, but now I have experienced the stall out upon start up and shifting in reverse. I am going on my 1 and ahalf hour drive to the dealer on monday to hopefully get this fixed. I been reading the forums and I have noticed that everybody is generally getting the same fix and only to have to go back to the dealer a couple months later. I dont know about you guys but Im almost out of warranty here, I mean how many times do i have to keep going back?

 

I bought my 2007 in April of last year. Thankfully I bought it under the MINI Next program so all engine stuff will be covered for an additional 2 years. As it stands with all the issues I'm having I can't see myself keeping this car when it is out of warranty - time will tell if it can redeem itself...

 

I just did my fourth seafoam treatment in the last 5 days. Each time putting 1/3 of the can through the intake. I have not put any Seafoam in the gas tank or oil and do not plan to. I would suggest that you all try a couple rounds of Seafoam treatments through the intake valve and see if this does not solve your issues. It has worked on my car and the stalling and rough idle is gone. The entire engine is running so much smoother.

I am convinced that my car had major carbon buildup and that is what was causing the idle/stalling issues. The one thing that I would recommend is that you let the car sit for at least 45 min - 1 hr after putting the Seafoam in before restarting it. This will produce more smoke, but the more smoke the better

 

Glad to hear. I am assuming getting a new cylinder head will be as good or better than seafoam treatments? Anything left that needs to be cleaned out?

 

carbon is building up on the backside of intake valves on cylinder 3 and 4.
this is due to direct injection, there is no fuel getting on valves to keep clean, also the crackcase vent system is a poor design, allowing too much oil back into the intake.

 

Well after two days my mini is fixed, well at least for now I hope. My SA said that my DME software was causing the P2188 cell. So they reprogrammed all the modules and updated the software. Also I had a loud vibration under the hood which was due to bad transmission mount and loose bolts. This caused the two day wait for not having part at mini dealership. I found something that was interesting to me, I complained about a loud tapping noise under the hood as well. Tech said that the Injectors DO make loud tapping sound and it is normal. I dont know all that much about cars but does the sound right to anyone else?

 

if the noise is on the right side (from the drivers seat always), of the engine bay chances are the timimg chain tensioner is not doing its job. if its on the right side its most likely the vacuum pump, they are normally noisey. the direct injectors that are installed on your car are buried under the intake manifold, which is under the air cleaner, your not hearing them, maybe valve noise, timing cahin, vacuum pump, probably not the injectors.

 

The injectors make noise because it is a direct injection system, 1700psi.